All Answers

Hi. We always replace the diode when we replace a magnetron. So I would definitely install a new diode. Check to see how many amps the unit is drawing during a cook cycle. If it’s over 3 amps then your issue is on the high-voltage side which includes your magnetron,diode, transformer, capacitor. If your drawing less than 3 amps then your issue is on the low voltage side which includes your control board, door switches, and fuses.

Hello
A loud noise could mean many possibilities. You could have a evaporator fan blade hinting an ice build up. A compressor with internal bearing noise. You really need to get there to pinpoint where the noise is coming from. I have provided fast track diagnostics. Let us know what you find so we can help you properly diagnose. Matt Ace technician

Hello
If both compressors are very hot this means the condenser is impacted still. If you clean only the outside of the condenser that will get some air flow but not enough to cool two compressors. We use a damp towel across the top of the unit to prevent dust, then blow out the condenser out with high pressure C02. If you have cleaned the condenser properly and still have an issue you will need to put on the high and low side gauges to get a refrigerant reading. Let us know what you find. See service manual link below. Matt Ace technician.

Hello
This is a Whirlpool refrigerator by the model number. The most common issues for the door coming open are .
1) Food or shelf hitting the interior door liner or seal.
2) The door gasket kinked, ripped or bent at the bottom or top corners.
3) Floor or refrigerator not level making the unit lean forward.

Since you do not have a latching handle, these are the only possibilities. I am sure you will find one of these issues. Please let us know what you find. Thanks Matt Ace technician

Hi. This unit uses the control to cycle into defrost. P# 241739704. It could be a defrost issue, or an evap or condenser fan motor nor running, ir a sealed system issue,

All are long drain codes.If the analog pressure switch doesn’t detect a change in water level it may give all 3 codes. I have attached the tech sheet for this model and it will give you step by step information you will need to determine issue,however it is my opinion based on the information you provided that it is a bad drain pump impeller or in fact a bad analog switch.(based on the f*35 error)

The dishwasher is not seeing a rise in water temp. Could be poor water circulation, water must fall over the heating element. Low water fill. Clogged or defective chopper assembly. Or finally the heating element (or wiring) is bad.
Clean light flashing 7 times means water not heating properly. See video link below and service manual.

See videos and manual on similar model Samsung dryer link below. Matt Ace technician

Hello If you are leaking water out of the door and you replaced the door boot. 1) Make sure the boot is not kinked at all. 2) Make sure there is no particles at the bottom like dog hair that would prevent a good seal. 3) Make sure the is not a crack in the inner door plastic housing. 4) Make sure it is not leaking from somewhere else and dripping down by the door. See diagnostic sheet for the hot water issue.

Hello, what were the error codes you had? does the lights work ect. just not the compressor? did you check for power a the outlet? I have provided a wire diagram for you currently do not have a service guide for this particular model.

Hello
I have provided the diagnostics sheet needed to properly evaluate your issue. Also see Service pointers and design parts changes. Thanks Matt Ace technician

Hello
See diagnostics and wiring information. I would run the unit through the and look at both service pointers. This will pinpoint your issue and i added a parts breakdown. Matt Ace technician

hello, if you already did the ccu next would be the mcu, But you will want to check the wires to see if any are broken and make sure they are making good contact on the boards. Also make sure the user interface wires and connectors are in good shape, But most likely the mcu.

F3E2 —- This error is displayed if the water temperature sensor value is out of range (23°F to 217°F [–5°C to 103°C]).
To find the correct ohm reading, refer to temperature chart. See the technician link below for diagnostics.

Hi. Where are you checking your voltage readings at? At the outlet or where the plug attaches to the dryer on the terminal block you should have 120V from each leg to neutral. Then between the two legs you should get 240V. If you are not getting theses voltage readings then you do not have correct power coming into the unit. You have an issue with in the outlet or house circuit and will need an electrician. .

Have you blown out the J-trap with Co2 or replaced the drain tube ? Here is the part number. WR02X11426 and here is the part link. The drains get a build up in the trap assembly. https://www.savemoreonparts.com/part/geh/wr02x11426

Hi. This is an over temperature error. You could have an issue with the thermistor. Check this part for proper resistance. Check to make sure air flow is good, and the heater element is not shorted. I have attached the tech sheet for you as well.

I would unplug the unit for three minutes. If this screen error continues replace ( EOC ) . See technician sheet link below , this error does not show on the diagnostics sheet.

First I would try to reset it. Turn power off to the unit for 5 mins and back on. I have attached the tech sheet for you as well. If nothing changes and you can not press any of the buttons on the control, I would suspect that you have a faulty control board. p# 316455410

Hi. It sounds like the dispenser switch for ice is faulty or is not being actuated. You will need to get into the dispenser area to see what is happening. The housing holds the switches in place and is very common to break. The plastic pins that hold the switches in place break. p# 241680510.