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According to WP, there is no F17 error code. However, review the attached tech sheet to see what F25 means…broke wire, bad MCU, etc. My best guess would be the MCU if it can’t handle a heavy load. Run through diagnostics again with the link below.

I have gradually learned to replace the flapper door with the new kit, even if you have to break off the old mounting tabs to install it. The one thing I noticed about the air pot in the kit is that it tends to bind up somewhat, so I notch the edges of the thin gasket on it in order for it to close more rapidly, yet not allow cubes to lodge in the chute. If it has gone on for awhile, replacing the drive shaft helps a lot.
Recently I had a unit ding similar. As the customer let it go longer, ice build up more. It did strip the bucket gear and the dispenser motor sounded like a truck.
I replaced the complete ice door kit along with the other damaged parts. So far it has been fine.
The bucket had been changed by large company and the problem recurred with in 2 months.

While it is very helpful when you describe the symptoms first, to answer your question, yes, the adaptive defrost controls the damper, etc. The new kit, shown below has revised wiring harness and it is advised to order the damper as well.

Customer was getting dc error code, unit not completing spin cycle.

Second visit, laundry load in washer trying to spin. Towels and jeans, nothing that should prevent the load from spinning. Pumps out water good, begins spinning, some banging on side but nothing I haven’t seen from other high efficiency top load washers, especially at the beginning. Spin speed ramps up slightly then stops with 7 minutes left. Unit then fills, goes through rinse agitation and tries to spin again. I got the washer to spin the clothes by stopping the washer before it fills, then starting the spin cycle again.

I got a 8E code, MEMs sensor? May need to replace main pcb?
Checked hall sensor (at main pcb), 5 vdc from pcb. Ohm readings at pins 2-4 and 3-4 were .408m ohms. Motor ohmed out per specs on fast track. Unit reached spin speed of 768 rpm in test mode.

I suspect this is a main pcb problem ??, but the motor hall sensor reading doesn’t look right. Unit has no problems agitating and there is no pitch sounds when spinning which usually accompanies a hall sensor problem. Looking up parts (sears), looks like I need to purchase entire motor instead of just the hall sensor?

Usually, this translates into a pump draining issue. Look for clogs or stripped impeller.

Samsung Drain Pump Relocation Kit
To improve quality Samsung has relocated the drain pump assembly from the bottom of the tub to the base of the washer on certain model numbers and production dates. Previously these washers used part number DC97-16985A for the drain pump but this pump has been discontinued and replaced with one of the two service kits part # DC98-01877A or DC98-01877B depending on the model number and manufacture date of the washer. First locate your model and serial number tag on the washing machine. This tag is located on the top back console of the washer, and it will list the model number, serial number, and manufacture date. The manufacture date is listed in the format of YYYY.MM (ex: 2012.06). Below is an example model and serial number tag to show where the manufacture date is located.
When the drain pump fails it can cause water to leak from the pump or it can cause the water not to drain out of the washing machine.

If you need to order one of the drain pump kits, you can click one of the links in the the above chart, or one of the links below. Parts Dr always has the lowest prices on OEM appliances parts.

Drain Pump Kit – PD00004957 (MFG# DC98-01877B)

Models WA400PJHDWR/AA & WA422PRHDWR/AA manufactured before 12/9/2012.

Drain Pump Kit – PD00004977 (MFG# DC98-01877A)

Models WA456DRHDSU/AA & WA456DRHDWR/AA manufactured before 12/9/2012.
Before working on your appliance, make sure that it is unplugged. Below are step by step instructions on how to install the new drain pump kit.

Pump Instructions 1

Pump Instructions 2
Posted in Washer
Tagged DC97-16985A, DC98-01877A, DC98-01877B, Samsung, WA400PJHDWR/AA, WA422PRHDWR/AA, WA456DRHDSU/AA, WA456DRHDWR/AA, Washer
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102 Thoughts on “Samsung Drain Pump Relocation Kit”

If you are not getting 110 to valve then you either have a bad timer or pressure switch. If washer go directly into agitate when you turn on your pressure switch is either clogged or bad. If washer does nothing you either have a bad timer or possible wiring issues. Another possibility may be lid lock switch. In some cases the lid lock in wired in with valve to only fill when lid is shut. According to the schematic with the model you gave all three of these seem to be the most logical possibilities.

If the control board is rebuilt the only other possibility is the touch panel display. I have provided a service technician link below. Run it through the diagnostics to verify.

The first thing I would check for is something stuck in your water pump since it attach’s directly to your motor. You would just unsnap the 2 snap clips on your water pump, then pull the pump off and see if it starts agitating. Other things to look for.
1) Pull off the water pump, make sure pump spins freely.
2)Remove the motor, make sure shaft spins freely.
3) Inspect clutch and break assembly.
The washer agitates when the motor runs one direction and then when the motor reverses it should drain all the water out and then the timer pauses the motor momentarily and then the timer starts the motor in the same direction at which time the gear case internally shifts into spin. In order to spin the clutch assembly spins around with enough torque to strike the brake release lever on the basket drive which causes the brake to release and the clutch slowing begins to spin the basket while the clutch is slipping until the clutch and clutch drum are spinning at the same speed.

If you spin the input shaft on the transmission it should cause the agitate shaft to arc back and forth and when you spin it the other way it should spin the clutch drum and clutch shoes. Now, before it will drain and spin the motor must operate in the drain and spin direction. In order to operate in the spin cycles the lid switch must be connected and in working order. The lid must be shut of the motor is not going to operate in the drain and spin cycles.

Hi. That can be a tough one if you can not catch it in the act. It could be a motor. I would ask them if they have tried to start the dryer back up right after it had shut off, and if so did the motor just hum? If so, the motor is going bad. You can go through the diagnostics and see if there are any stored error codes. I have attached the tech sheet for you.

Hi. This error code set up on this machine can be confusing. I have attached the service manual on this unit for you. This should have more detail than the tech sheet. Look at page 62. It gives you the error code table. It shows which LED lights will be lit up for which error code you have. Sounds like you have an issue with your lid lock and that may be the error code you are getting. IT you are hearing the lid lock clicking, it is getting power and you more than likely have an issue at the lock itself.

Hi. I’m going to ask you some questions to get some more information so we can figure out what is going on. IF the outside temperature is 85 deg. generally speaking you should be at around 75 PSI on the suction line for a R-22 system. Also, what is your liquid line pressure at? Are you blowing any cold air out of the vents inside the house? Are you sure the compressor is running? Are the condenser coils clean?

Hi. The defrost fuse for the freezer section is p# DA47-00095E. They do call this a temperature sensor on some look ups, but this is in fact the fuse. The defrost fuse for the refrigerator section is the same part number. They also sub to a p# DA47-00095D. I show the ice pipe is no longer available with no substitute part number. I have attached a link to this part. You can try calling the number listed at the top of this link to see if they have any information on this part for you.

Hello, the updated part number for both the fresh food defrost bi metal and the freezer defrost bi metal are both subbed to DA47-00243K and are interchangeable. The ice pipe part number DA62-01368A is unfortunately not available any more. We were able to get that part from Encompass parts distributors at one time but no more. You should be able to hopefully match it up with some other brand by size and dimension. Good luck.

Hello, I could not find anything on this model. Even in the parts breakdown they do not show the condenser, but they are typically located under the fridge. If you are going to attempt this repair you need a lot of special tools and are required by law to have a EPA certification. The dryer is located by the compressor. standard brazing technics are what you do nothing to fancy. this will not be a easy job to do. You need to be sure that those are the parts you need as you do not want to do this repair unless you are 100% sure you need them.

Hi. We do not have videos for this exact repair. However, I have attached a couple of videos that will show how the repair will need to be done as far as reclaiming, recharging, brazing, etc.

F-25 error indicates user interface error. I have attached a tech sheet for your model and it is referenced on page 6.

Hello,I have attached the tech sheet for your model and it has the programming procedure outlined in detail for you.

I am sorry,i did not see that you replaced the motor,I read that as the” motor drive belt “. It is common for the timer on this model to stall right and the beginning of the rinse/spin cycle. I have attached the service manual for your model and it will have all step by step measures to take in solving your problem. Good luck.

Your motor runs in 2 directions,one way will agitate transmission and the other direction will unlock brake and spin tub.The problem is most likely and bad start winding on the reverse operation of the motor,which is why a few turns get is going.The part # of the motor is WP21001950. I have attached a video on this repair for you.