Hi. This ice maker should have a test button. Looks like it is on the bottom left of the head of the ice maker. What happens when you press the and hold the test button? Is there something mechanical holding the ice try from rotating? Theses ice makers are very common to break. Sorry I do not have a tech sheet for this unit. Make sure the door switches are working properly. Try the test button. I would suspect the ice maker. p # AEQ73110203
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 10 years ago
Hi. I have attached the tech sheet for you. The control board is part of the defrost system. You also, have you heater, fuse and sensor. Test your fuse and sensor for ohms with your mutli meter. The Sensor temperature chart is on the tech sheet. Its resistance will change according to temperature. The control board is not common for this issue , but if your heater sensor and fuse test out good the only part left would be the board. Check your error codes in the diagnostic mode as well.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 10 years ago
I cannot seem to get model number rf28hfedbsr02 to come up as a valid model. Please recheck and provide so we can further assist you. Thanks
- Sam, Ace Appliance answered 10 years ago
Hi. It does not sound like the blower wheel if the noise goes away when you run the unit with out the drum. It is possible. Check that your motor mounts are in place. Check the rear drum supports and idler pulley. It could be the front plastic ring bearing, or the rear felt seal. They could be damaged or have something suck in them. IT is also very common for coins and other debris to get stuck in the baffles. I would take the baffles off and clean them out as well.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 10 years ago
HI. I did not find a F1 E9 error code in the tech sheet. I think you meant F9 E1 for a long drain error. I have attached the tech sheet for you. Is the water draining out of the machine fast enough? Is the stand pipe that the drain hose goes into. properly set up, with proper height and size? You could have a drain pump that intermittently does not want to work, or a pressure switch or hose issue. Or possibly a CCU problem. Go through the steps under the long drain error in the tech sheet, which leads you to a different page to run some tests. Are there any other stored errors in the system?
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 10 years ago
hello, that is a shifter fault
Fault is displayed when the main control cannot determine position of shifter.
• Check harness connections from main control to motor and shifter.
• Observe shifter operation.
• See TEST #3a: Drive System–Shifter.
i have attached a tech sheet for you it is not the exact model but very similar. same parts and error codes you will see. Also the tech sheet inside your machine should be on the left wall of the case when you pop the top up. this tech sheet will show you how to do that.
- Guest answered 10 years ago
Hello, i would check to make sure the drain line is secure, it may be flopping around making noise. If you are sure all things are secure and isolated it to the tub itself then you may have a broken part on the inner tub. you would need to split the tub apart to be for sure. it is a very intensive and expensive repair.
- Guest answered 10 years ago
Hello, unfortunately if the compressor is running and you have no frost pattern on the coils you will have a sealed system leak. When you have a sealed system issue you need to have a EPA certified tech come out to diagnose and replace or repair the leak. It can be a real pain to try and find you need special tools and training to diagnose where the issue is in the system.
- Guest answered 10 years ago
Hello, i could not find that exact model in our data. What i can tell you is you need to turn your multi meter to continuity mode, so when you put the two leads together they beep. Put on end on one side of the heater and one on the other. If it makes a sound you know the heater is not broken. and also do that one the defrost thermostat/Bi metal when it is in the freezer and nice and cold it should beep as well so you know that power can flow through it. if those test good you will need a new timer. hope this helps you out.
- Guest answered 10 years ago
If you have no water to the ice maker or dispenser assembly I would look at the water saddle valve or water inlet valve. If the get plugged with lime and calcium deposits it will restrict water flow to both areas. See links below
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
The “PF” error code on this dishwasher stands for “power failure”. This error code will display if you shut off the power to the dishwasher, or if there was a power outage. You can normally just clear the code and run the dishwasher if there are not any other issues. It can also be caused by a bad electrical connection at the board or the main power connection coming into the unit. . Shut off the power to the dishwasher and check the electrical connections where the power comes into the dishwasher. I have provided a diagnostic guide link below.
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
Hi. I have attached a tech sheet on this unit for you. There is not an E0 error code, but there is one that looks similar to that for a thermistor error. Take a look at the tech sheet and find your error code. Follow the steps to find out what is causing that error for you.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 10 years ago
Hi. First I would check for proper power to the unit. AT the outlet do you have 120V and a proper ground? How did this happen to the unit? Was there a power outage or something that caused this? If you have proper power I would have replaced the board as well for this issue. What part number did you install? The part number for the main control I found is p# DA92-00233D. Check for proper power going to the control board.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 10 years ago
88 88 error code DIAGNOSTICS
1. automatic diagnosis makes servicing the refrigerator easy.
2. when a defect occurs, the buttons will not operate; but tones, such as ding, will sound.
3. when the defect code removes the sign, it returns to normal operation (reset)
4. the defect code shows on the refrigerator and freezer display.
(which is the code you are seeing at this time)
** lcd check function:
if simultaneously pressing ultra ice button and freezing temperature adjustment button for a second, display lcd graphics on. if releasing the button, the lcd graphic displays the previous status.
(we need the previous status error code)
for this model we usually get the error code of er if or er ff. both codes have the same problem so i will have that on here for you also.
ERFF or the ER IF code:
it is caused when feedback signal isn’t over 65 seconds during bldc fan motor operation. bldc = brushless dc electrick motor.
poor bldc motor connection, drive ic, and tr.
ERFF CODE
1. reset the unit and input test 1 mode.
(push button 1 time).
-
open the freezer door and check the air flow.
*while an error code is being displayed, the fan doesnt work.
status: svc action
no windy go to 3
windy go to 4 -
check the fan motor.
rotate fan using your hand. if feel sticky, change the motor
(cause of ice or rust inside of motor) -
check the fan motor voltage.
point result svc action
(1) – (2) below 12 v change the pcb
(1) – (3) 0 or 5 v change the motor
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
I have provided the technician sheet for your model. Do you have any error codes ? See service pointers on out of balance spin issues.
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
Hi. I do believe that if the dishwasher control recognizes and issue with diverter it will cancel or time out and store the error code. Get into the diagnostics and clear the error codes. Run the test cycle. This will tell if everything comes on and is working properly. I have not seen a faulty diverter before. It sounds like the shaft of the diverter that goes up into the sump may not be aligned correctly. I have seen this before. Did you pull the sump out and have to disconnect any connections? If so make sure all your connectors are good. Especially the motor connector.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 10 years ago
Here is the parts breakdown to help you get this unit apart. Hope this helps
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
- last active 10 years ago
To ENTER SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS Mode:
Press SW1 and SW2 simultaneously for 3 seconds. Release both buttons when you hear the CHIME indicator.
Unit must not be in Lockout prior to entering SERVICE DIAGNOSTIC MODE.
The display will show 01 to indicate the control is in step 1 of the diagnostics routine.
To EXIT SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS Mode: do one of the following 3 options:
• Press SW1 and SW2 simultaneously for 3 seconds.
• Disconnect the product from power.
• Allow 20 minutes to pass.
Following the exit of the diagnostic mode, the controls will then resume normal operation.
Cooling diagnostics are steps 1 through 7 and 32 through 38. Dispensing diagnostics are steps 8 through 31.
Each step must be manually advanced. Press SW5 to move to the next step in the sequence. Press SW4 to back
up in the sequence to the previous step. Diagnostics will begin at Step 1. Each step is displayed in the two digits
of the dispenser user interface display. The step results are displayed in the two digits on dispenser user interface
display 2 seconds after the step number is displayed. An amber order filter light will be shown to designate that the
step number is being displayed and a red replace filter light will be shown to designate that the status of the step is
being displayed. All button and pad inputs shall be ignored and all inputs shall be off except as described in the
actions for each step.
Service Test – 1 FC thermistor
• The board will check the resistance value of the thermistor and display flashes results on the RC Temp
Display. (01 = Pass, 02 = Open, 03 = Short)
Service Test – 2 RC thermistor
• The board will check the resistance value of the thermistor and display the results on the RC Temp. Display
(01 = Pass, 02 = Open, 03 = Short)
Service Test – 3 Evaporator fan motor and air baffle motor
• Turns on the evaporator fan motor and opens air baffle. Verify air flow from the evaporator fan. Check to see
if the baffle opens. Status indicator will be blank.
Service Test – 4 Compressor/ condenser fan motor
• Press SW3 to activate compressor / condenser fan circuit. (01 = ON, 02 = OFF).
Service Test – 6 Defrost heater/Bi-metal
• Note: if bi-metal is open, it will need to be by-passed for heater to operate. Heater should be on. Display will
be blank until a valid reading is displayed. (01 = Bi-metal closed, 02 = Bi-metal open)
Service Test – 7 Defrost mode
• The defrost mode can be set by using SW3. In ADC Mode the product will automatically defrost after a
minimum of 8 hours of compressor runtime up to maximum of 96 hours of compressor runtime, depending upon
product usage. In Basic Mode the product will automatically defrost after 8 hours of compressor runtime.
(01 = ADC ON, 02 = Basic Mode ON) 8 hour timer
Service Test – 8 All UI indicators
• Verify that all LED indicators and UI display digits turn on automatically. All indicators ON for 30 second
timeout.
Service Test – 9 UI Button and Pad Test
• Displays the user Interface Buttons and Ice and Water Pads status as described in the Component Status
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
See technician guide in link below and look at page 19-20 for control board and display module. Hope this helps.
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
- last active 10 years ago
Where is this ice forming? Please try to be more specific than just “in the refrigerator”. Sounds more like air infiltrating the FF compartment from either a door not sealing properly or from a drain tube allowing air to be drawn into the unit. You really don’t want to start ordering parts based on what some tech line person told you, as he can’t see the problem either. Their advice has been sketchy sometimes, depending on who they spoke to.
Have the doors been left open for a period of time?
Frost likely to build if the door is left open for a long period of time. Make sure the door is closing completely and is not blocked by something between the door gasket and cabinet.
Are the doors opened frequently?
Frequent door openings can let in humid room air. Keeping door openings to a minimum will help, but may not completely eliminate frost or ice in the freezer. During months of high humidity (especially if a home is not air-conditioned), it is normal to see some frost and sweating on the interior walls or on food packages.
Are the air vents between the freezer and refrigerator blocked?
Ensure the air vents between the freezer and refrigerator compartments are not blocked. Objects blocking the vents will cause a decrease in proper air circulation which can cause temperature and moisture problems. Move any items that could be blocking the vents.
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
