Here is the parts breakdown to help you get this unit apart. Hope this helps
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
- last active 10 years ago
To ENTER SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS Mode:
Press SW1 and SW2 simultaneously for 3 seconds. Release both buttons when you hear the CHIME indicator.
Unit must not be in Lockout prior to entering SERVICE DIAGNOSTIC MODE.
The display will show 01 to indicate the control is in step 1 of the diagnostics routine.
To EXIT SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS Mode: do one of the following 3 options:
• Press SW1 and SW2 simultaneously for 3 seconds.
• Disconnect the product from power.
• Allow 20 minutes to pass.
Following the exit of the diagnostic mode, the controls will then resume normal operation.
Cooling diagnostics are steps 1 through 7 and 32 through 38. Dispensing diagnostics are steps 8 through 31.
Each step must be manually advanced. Press SW5 to move to the next step in the sequence. Press SW4 to back
up in the sequence to the previous step. Diagnostics will begin at Step 1. Each step is displayed in the two digits
of the dispenser user interface display. The step results are displayed in the two digits on dispenser user interface
display 2 seconds after the step number is displayed. An amber order filter light will be shown to designate that the
step number is being displayed and a red replace filter light will be shown to designate that the status of the step is
being displayed. All button and pad inputs shall be ignored and all inputs shall be off except as described in the
actions for each step.
Service Test – 1 FC thermistor
• The board will check the resistance value of the thermistor and display flashes results on the RC Temp
Display. (01 = Pass, 02 = Open, 03 = Short)
Service Test – 2 RC thermistor
• The board will check the resistance value of the thermistor and display the results on the RC Temp. Display
(01 = Pass, 02 = Open, 03 = Short)
Service Test – 3 Evaporator fan motor and air baffle motor
• Turns on the evaporator fan motor and opens air baffle. Verify air flow from the evaporator fan. Check to see
if the baffle opens. Status indicator will be blank.
Service Test – 4 Compressor/ condenser fan motor
• Press SW3 to activate compressor / condenser fan circuit. (01 = ON, 02 = OFF).
Service Test – 6 Defrost heater/Bi-metal
• Note: if bi-metal is open, it will need to be by-passed for heater to operate. Heater should be on. Display will
be blank until a valid reading is displayed. (01 = Bi-metal closed, 02 = Bi-metal open)
Service Test – 7 Defrost mode
• The defrost mode can be set by using SW3. In ADC Mode the product will automatically defrost after a
minimum of 8 hours of compressor runtime up to maximum of 96 hours of compressor runtime, depending upon
product usage. In Basic Mode the product will automatically defrost after 8 hours of compressor runtime.
(01 = ADC ON, 02 = Basic Mode ON) 8 hour timer
Service Test – 8 All UI indicators
• Verify that all LED indicators and UI display digits turn on automatically. All indicators ON for 30 second
timeout.
Service Test – 9 UI Button and Pad Test
• Displays the user Interface Buttons and Ice and Water Pads status as described in the Component Status
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
See technician guide in link below and look at page 19-20 for control board and display module. Hope this helps.
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
- last active 10 years ago
Where is this ice forming? Please try to be more specific than just “in the refrigerator”. Sounds more like air infiltrating the FF compartment from either a door not sealing properly or from a drain tube allowing air to be drawn into the unit. You really don’t want to start ordering parts based on what some tech line person told you, as he can’t see the problem either. Their advice has been sketchy sometimes, depending on who they spoke to.
Have the doors been left open for a period of time?
Frost likely to build if the door is left open for a long period of time. Make sure the door is closing completely and is not blocked by something between the door gasket and cabinet.
Are the doors opened frequently?
Frequent door openings can let in humid room air. Keeping door openings to a minimum will help, but may not completely eliminate frost or ice in the freezer. During months of high humidity (especially if a home is not air-conditioned), it is normal to see some frost and sweating on the interior walls or on food packages.
Are the air vents between the freezer and refrigerator blocked?
Ensure the air vents between the freezer and refrigerator compartments are not blocked. Objects blocking the vents will cause a decrease in proper air circulation which can cause temperature and moisture problems. Move any items that could be blocking the vents.
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
The encoder only programs the temps. The relay board follows up by applying them.
WB27T10821
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
Check to see if you have any power at all at the ice maker plug (door switch closed). If not, the main PCB may have issues. If power is there, the ice-maker itself is not working properly. See link below for ice maker diagnostics.
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
Hello
I have provided a parts breakdown for your model. Look on page 30& 31 . These are not very popular and we do not have any video’s on this product yet. Hope this helps.
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
Greg,are you performing machine calibration? Also are you sure the pressure hose is properly inserted on control? Have you performed the diagnostic procedure and error code recall? I have attached the tech sheet on this machine and it outlines step by step everything you need to do perform and understand how to properly utilize the machine diagnostics to read error code(s) and steps to take. There is no one answer, just follow tech manual procedure and it will help you understand and determine your issue and how to correct it.
- Sam, Ace Appliance answered 10 years ago
Here are some diagnostic guides, we have more information coming shortly on the possible issue. Thanks
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
Hello
I have provided service & diagnostic information on this Milnor washer. We do not see many Milnor washers in this area so I will email you more information as we get it from our technicians. Thanks
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
Hello, If now water is coming into the washer you need to check to see if you are getting 120v ac at the valves. Not sure what you mean by a diverter valve. if you are getting power than the inlet valve is bad or water is not turned on.
- Guest answered 10 years ago
F34 means that your upper oven cooling fan isn’t running correctly or error with the airflow for the upper oven ( all lower codes start with “6”, upper start with “3” )If you hear the fan running, then that means your sail switch could be not working or has failed and needs to be replaced. The sail switch is located behind the bottom vent panel below the bottom door. The switch on the left is for the upper oven and the switch on the right is the lower oven. The switch on the left is the one you’d want to look at or replace. See the link below on your model for additional information.
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
Hello
I have provided diagnostics for you model see testing instructions below. Let us know if any other assistance is need after tests are performed. Thanks
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
Hello
Please see the link below on complete diagnostics and wiring for your model. Thanks
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
This is a common model made from ’09-’13, called the “finger-ice” in shop lingo. The manuals are prevalent, the diagnostics can be somewhat tedious, but the manual is worth a read. Don’t be concerned about the model number on the link below, the ice maker and diagnostics are the same. First thing to check see if i/m in on the front display, second pull the ice bucket out see if you hear the fan running, fan not running are common if fan not running you need flex tray gasket kit 5303918650 see a lot of these i/m fan ices up stops ice thaws and won’t make any more ice
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
Hi. The pressure switch is going to control the water level on this unit. Check to see if there are any blockages or holes in the pressure tube. If not you may have a faulty pressure switch. Its hard to say with not being there to see if fail. The pressure switch is P# DC96-01703C. Attached is a video on the repair.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 10 years ago
From the symptoms you are explaining it sounds like a broken spin basket support. I would start there. Let us know if that is your issue. See technician diagnostic sheet link below.
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
- last active 10 years ago
See the attached fast track. Suspect the defrost heater or sensor/fixer…
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
This is a basic Frigidaire dishwasher. The wash motor only turns in one direction. The upper spray is controlled by a little ball under the volute cover which diverts the water to the upper or lower region as it moves. Usually hard water with lime & calcium residue that prevents this from moving. Take the upper pump housing apart and see if it needs cleaning out.
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
Hello
When you have a heavy ice ball on the coil, it is a strong indication of a sealed system issue. Is the rest of the evaporator frosted ? If it is frosted it should have a coil temperature of -15 to -20 degrees. If it does not you have a leak in the system or a weak suction valve in your compressor. I have provided diagnostic video links below.
- AV Repair Help answered 10 years ago
