0 votes
In reply to: Error code SYCE

Hi. The CE is a communication error between the U. I and main control. The majority of the time I have found the issue to be the main control board on the bottom front of the unit. p # 5303918514. Check the ice maker sensor. IT attaches to the bottom of the ice maker and it gets damaged easily. They get broken off or will come off the bottom of the ice maker and just hang. This will cause your error as well. IF so I would replace the ice maker and the board.

0 votes
In reply to: Washer will not start

Hi. The model number you gave me is for a front load washer. It seems to me that you are describing a top load washer. In the diagnostics of this front load you can select the second button to run a test cycle. It is strange that the green LED blinked. I believe it should stay solid green all the time. This, along with no error codes makes me think you have a loose connection somewhere. Most common would be at your outlet. Will the unit light up for you?

0 votes

Hi. The bearings on this one are going to be a part of the gear case. p# W10330039. The washer will make a loud grinding, bearing like noise in spin. Check under neath the machine to make sure the pulley nut has not come loose causing the pulley to rub into the motor housing as this is common on this unit as well. I have attached a video on replacing the gear case. The only special tool you will need is a spanner wrench. P# 1021707

0 votes

Hi.There is a water resivior. It is located in the door section of the parts break down. P# 4838JA2002B. It could be froze up. It looks like this unit uses a micro switch that the water paddle hits against when pressed. The paddle may not be hitting the switch or the switch could be bad. When you press the button, see if you hear the hum of the water valve being energized. Hope fully you will be able to look up into the dispenser with out taking it apart to see what is happening.

0 votes
In reply to: WATER LEAK

Unfortunately there is no way to determine where a leak is coming from without seeing it. Remove top panel and bottom front kick plate panel and use a flashlight and a small inspection mirror and you must actually see where the leak is coming from, and once that is determined we can help you with specific repair video .

0 votes

Sounds like one of your tub supports have been knocked out of its retainer . It is most likely that you can simply reapply it. I have attached a video for you that will walk you through .

1 vote

Replacing the heater assembly will also replace the NTC and the Aqua sensor, as they are integrated into the part.Here is the link below for the diagnostics and error codes.

0 votes

Your defrost heater is warped in the middle. Leave your temp scribe on it, try bending your defrost heater back to shape downward straight . Advance unit into defrost cycle and make sure you have an even red glow across the heater, if you do not you have a weak defrost heat and it needs to be replaced. Check your defrost water outlet in the back to be sure it’s not letting warm air migrate up from the compressor area. My thought is the way the heater is warped up in the middle the frost build up in the middle will block water dripping down the left side of the evaporator causing it to overflow the trough and leak into the vents . The ice in the left vent is more than the other 2. I’m really interested to hear what you find to be the problem when it’s all said and done.
Also check for air infiltration from drain tube in unit compartment.

0 votes

Hello, I have provided a link to the tech sheet with trouble shooting and error codes.

  • Guest answered 10 years ago
0 votes

Hi. I have seen this a few times before. I have always found a bad switch with this issue. However the control board could be at fault also. A door switch is more likely. I would check the switches first.

0 votes
In reply to: unit won't start

Hello, It sounds to me like the start button is not working. In most cases you will find it is the control panel not the control board but…. it can be the control it is just rare that it is. I provided a tech sheet for this model but it does not cover how to test the buttons 🙁

  • Guest answered 10 years ago
0 votes

It does sound like the bearing is bad. This will cause the burning smell. Usually a burning rubber smell. The basket gets loose and drops down, rubbing against the gasket in spin. This is why you get your shavings and a loud noise. From the parts look up the bearings are apart of the rear half of the outer tub. The drive basket shaft may be damaged as well. This repair is usually not cost effective.

0 votes

Hello I have a tech sheet that has the parts diagram and the trouble shooting chart

  • Guest answered 10 years ago
0 votes

HI. I have attached the tech sheet for you. It has the schematic as well as error codes and diagnostics. Your issue for the 3 blinks is listed under the trouble shooting section. It explains what the issue could be.

0 votes

I am not finding any information for this issue with this unit. No service pointers found. The ovens normally will take about 20 mins give or take to preheat. The higher the set temp the longer it will take. Are they turning the ovens on both at the same time with the same set temp? I would just make sure both bake and broil elements are working. This model should use the broil elements to preheat as well. Does one oven have convection and the other now? Could they be using convention bake on the bottom and not the top? Heat from the lower oven when using both at the same time can effect the temps in the upper oven. I would not be concerned with the longer preheat time if everything is working correctly and temps are correct.

0 votes

Hi. I have attached the Training guide for this unit for you. Have you ran diagnostics yet to check for error codes? This guide will walk you through that. How is the temperature in the Freezer section? Could possible be an issue with the freezer temperature sensor. I would check that as well. Let me know and good luck.

0 votes
In reply to: replace compressor

Hello
I have provided a link to a compressor replacement. It is not the exact model of your unit but will give you a good idea of what you will need to replaced your compressor. Than ks

0 votes

Hello, first thing to check is for 120v ac at the valve when you call for water, you may want to disconnect the water line on the other side of the valve. to be sure that water flows through the valve. It may be frozen in the holding tank in the fridge section.

  • Guest answered 10 years ago
0 votes

The TE error indicates a water heating error detected. Check the water heater or element and the thermistor. The washer is reporting a fault on the heating circuit, the error code does not exactly pinpoint where the fault lies. If you are comfortable using an ohm meter and making these kinds of tests in the link below. Matt Ace technician

0 votes
In reply to: OUT OF BALANCE

Hi. It sounds like you may have a snubber that is worn out. Take a look at the videos in the link I have attached. Check to see if the snubber is no longer in place or is worn out. You will get a lot of white plastic shavings on the floor or in the cabinet of the unit when the snubber wears down. Some white shavings are normal but should not be excessive.

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