All Answers

At this time we do not have the transmission replacement video. Here is the troubleshooting information on page #16-17 . See link below

Hi. This looks like a Samsung built GE refrigerator. The door has to be closed for the evap fan motor to run. On most of theses there is no door switch that you can press in on to by pass it and get the fan to run. I will close the door almost all the way to where the light goes off and listen for the fan to run. They are very quiet and take about 10 seconds to come on once the door is closed. You can also hear it sometimes with your ear pressed up to the side of the unit. From the customers description, it sounds like the compressor has been failing to start at times. This would cause the noise she heard. I am not able to locate the tech sheet on this unit. If the fan motor is not running you could have a faulty control board. I just had a Samsung unit very similar to this the other day that gave me some trouble. IT would cool just fine for a couple days or even a couple weeks, then thaw out for a couple of days and start working again. It ended up being a faulty compressor that would intermittently work. On the power supply/inverter board on the back of the unit there is a red light that will flash if there is an error code present for the compressor circuit. If I recall correctly, mine would flash 3 times to indicate compressor start failure.

It is not uncommon for the water entering the ice maker to “flutter”.This is a normal operating sound caused by different factors and is nothing to be concerned about.

Does it drain the water out when you start the d/w starts out in 2 minute drain then will fill with water if it does this and only thing you hear is a hum wash motor jammed . you can take a 10 mm socket goes throw pump intake and turn it see if it is free. If after the water comes in it starts to drain look behind the water valve there is a little foam float in the base mice like to eat them see if the little rod that comes on top of the foam donut is pushed down . This is for the auto drain if there is a leak.behind the water valve you’ll see a little round foam disc the arm sites in the middle us a screw driver raise the arm see if you hear a micro switch clock . You can also push down on the arm make sure it is not up if the foam disc looks like it has been chewed the arm may be up. Hope this helps

Here is your diagnostic sheet.

See link for troubleshooting below. Matt Ace technician

Hello, Can you double check that model number for me? should be something like. 123.456789 I think you are just missing the first 3 numbers.

I have attached a video on how to reset the motor.

Hello
I have provided a service tech. sheet . Go down to page 35 and it will show all of the error codes and tests on every component on your unit. Let me know if this helps .Matt Ace technician

Yes, see link below there is a service bulletin update fix for this issue. See instructions below in link for DA81-05595A fix.

Yes, it could be CPU, look at the error codes on the tech. sheet for verification.

I have provided a service tech. link below. It sounds like it may be a weak ignitor, do not rule that out. See diagnostics for more information.

Here are the diagnostics, look on page #69 in link below for door lock error and diagnostics. in the links below.

If your compressor is not running that is telling me you have most likely a power issue. If you have a close temperature control the only other control that sends power to the compressor and evaporator fan motor is the defrost control. If you do not have power 115 volts to the compressor replace the #WP68233-3 defrost control.

Hello
Looking at your wiring diagram there are only two components that wire in series with the evaporator fan motor. 1)The defrost control 2) Temperature control. Both switch components need to be in the closed position to feed power to the motor. If you have 115 volts to the evaporator fan motor you have a bad motor. Let us know what you find ..Matt Ace technician

Hello, all amana ac unit have the same error codes f1 is universal you will be looking at replacing the black wire thermister most likely, i provided a video and a part link.

Indoor Ambient Thermistor reads outside the
range -20°F to 200°F & the wireless thermostat is not
communicating to the unit control or

Indoor Ambient Thermistor (IAT) without a wireless remote
thermostat reads outside the range -20°F to 200°F. Y Y Replace black Indoor Ambient Thermistor or Wireless Remote Thermostat

Here is the test for the main control. Run through the diagnostics and see if there are any error codes. This should tell you if thier are any issues with the board. Matt Ace technician
DIAGNOSTIC LED – MAIN CONTROL
A troubleshooting tool has been implemented
onto the main control board—a diagnostic LED.
LED ON – The Control is detecting correct incoming
line voltage and the processor is functioning.
LED OFF – Control malfunction. Perform TEST #1:
Main Control, page 12, to verify main control
functionality.

SERVICE DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODES
These tests allow factory or service personnel
to test and verify all inputs to the main control
board. You may want to do a quick and overall
checkup of the washer with these tests before
going to specific troubleshooting tests.

Hi. I was not able to look up that model number. Please double check that model number. I think your model we are looking for is WM2688HNM. I have attached a service manual for this model. I would start by checking for proper power going in to the control board.

This is the only information I could find on the error you are having. 12VDC on the service section too low(Relay Board)Check harness between Induction Module, Relay Board, and
Main Control Board. If correct, replace Relay Board.I got this information from Electrolux so it should be accurate.

The F70 & F71 Code is the CENTRAL CONTROL UNIT HEARTBEAT FAILURE
If a Central Control Unit Heartbeat Failure is displayed,
no communication is detected from the Central Control
Unit (CCU) to the User Interface.
Possible Causes/Procedure
1. Check for continuity of the User Interface harness.
2. Check wire harness connections to the User Interface
and Central Control Unit.
3. If the drum is not rotating, unplug the MCU from the
CCU (the MI3 or M13 connector). If the code goes
away, then replace the MCU. If the code does not go
away, replace the CCU.
4. Replace User Interface if drum is rotating.

Hope this helps Thanks Matt Ace Technician