All Answers

See the service diagnostic technician sheet. This is the closest model number I could find #MMFF2055DRM00 . If you get me a correct model number , I can get you the exact sheet. Matt Ace Technician

Hello
Yes, we have seen this many times. You have a plugged condensate drain. The interior pressure is equalized through the drain. If the drain is plugged that door will be VERY hard to open. It could be in the drain trap, we use co2 to blow through the drain . You normally get lime & calcium depots that plug it over the years. Clear the drain a problem solved. Once you can get water through the drain you will know its open. Matt Ace technician

Hello
Can you double check your model number. It is not correct .Thanks Matt Ace

We have had a similar problem with this new design IM, the one with the blue ejector blades, which comes in a wide variety of numbers but can all be combined and used the same.
The problem is this, the tech places the metal arm into the wrong hole near the end where the fill cup is. Oh, it will go into either hole fine (there are two!) but get the arm into the wrong hole and IM will act like a bad IM. It will cycle fine while on the call, apparently tech moves arm and it will cycle, but the IM will NOT make ice on its own. Tell everyone to pay close attention which hole the original IM arm was in. Hope this helps and makes sense to all, can through you for a real loop!

Hello
We have had this issue before. The slide rack assembly for the bottom mount drawer starts to sag. In return when the door gets shut it does not make the three way switch close and send line voltage to the ice maker. You need to tape the door switch closed for 24 hours and if the ice maker makes at least a half bucket in 24 hours you know to order the slide racks to correct the issue. Matt Ace technician

Hi. The ND error is a No Drain error. Do you hear the drain pump come on and run? Check for proper voltage to your drain pump. With a new drain pump installed, and no clogs, you most likely are not getting correct power to your pump. IT should be 120 volts during the drain cycle. You could have a wire harness issue(which I have not seen before on this unit) or a bad control board. I have seen multiple control boards that have gone bad for this issue. The relay on the board for the drain pump will go bad. A lot of times if you tap on the relay or wiggle it, it will start working again briefly. There are a few different controls for this model on the look up. They are series specific so you will need you serial number as well to get the correct part from your parts distributor.

Hi. The ice fill tube could be froze up. I have not seen many fill tubes freeze up on this models. Sounds like low water pressure is your issue, which can cause fill tubes to freeze. If your fill tube is frozen it will be frozen inside the freezer and you should be able to clear it out which out removing it. First make sure the filter does not need replaced. An old filter can cause low water pressure. The most likely issue causing low water pressure is the valve that brings the water to the refrigerator. This is usually a self piercing saddle valve and they only last about 5 years. I would replace that first. You can check it by shutting off the valve. removing the water line at the back of the unit then turn water back on and see what kind of pressure you get. This will work if your familiar with how strong of flow you should get. Before you do that you can check water pressure coming out of the water dispenser. The next thing would be the water inlet valve that the water line connects to at the back of the unit. I am also at attaching the ice maker diagnostic sheet so you can make sure there are no errors with the ice maker optics.

Hi. It sounds like you did this repair and did not have to pull the base off. Is that correct or did you still need assistance with this one? The model number you provided is not valid. If you still need assistance please double check you model number.

It is hard to see the frost pattern in the pictures. If you follow the line coming into the evap where your frost starts, and it stops frosting at some point through the rest of the evap, you could have a leak in the system or a faulty compressor. The emitter and receiver boards for the ice maker do not have any effect on temperatures. The red flashing light on the ice maker board will indicate an error code if one is present. These error codes and ice maker diagnostic information is located on the tech sheet. I have attached tech information on the ice maker. Back to the temperature issue. Is this how you found the evaporator frost? If so and this unit has been on and running for more than 5 days, then you do not have a defrost issue. So you do not need to change out your adaptive defrost board. IF this unit has been thawed out recently, and there is a defrost issue, it will show back up in about 5 days. It takes that long for enough frost to build back up before blocking air flow. Did you have heavy frost on the evap? What are the temps in this unit? DO you have good air flow to the refrigerator section?

From semperf:
“I don’t know what you would consider a fridge coil that has “partial frost pattern”.
Please evaluate these photos and relay your views, thanks !!”

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dop2nygcqom5e9r/20160625_153423.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/npb8hhb7z30a0cl/20160625_150450.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mcl6ivj8md4gsrb/20160625_144418.mp4?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/u0j2kugm48y0h75/20160625_144403.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ycglikjxzts3exq/20160625_144154.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jxdwgue1k1m1n2c/20160625_144142.jpg?dl=0

Hi. What are your temperatures in each section? This seems odd to have a partial frost pattern and your freezer has good temperatures. A partial frost pattern is an indication of a sealed system issue, but you would be reading warm temperatures in the freezer. If your freezer temps are good and your refrigerator temps are warm then you have restricted air flow somewhere. This could be in the return or supply vent, or dampener. Or your evap fan motor may not be running. Check your air flow system.

Hi. You could have a loose connection at the P4 connector on the board. Your motor control board could be the issue. Also, check your thermal fuse and thermistor. Take a look at this forum I have found.

HI. I would unplug it for at least 5 mins to give it a good reset. I have attached the service manual for this unit. On page 17 it walks you through how to test a “will not lock” issue. Follow theses steps to diagnose your issue.

I have attached a tech sheet for you.

The 4 wire thermostat should have 2 outside terminals and 2 inside terminals. The 2 outside terminals should be normally closed and have continuity. The 2 inside terminals should be normally open and should not have continuity,however this cycling thermostat is most likely not your issue. Check the element from each pole to ground as it may be causing element to stay on at all times. I am taking as fact that there is good airflow,so so also be sure that the high limit cutoff on the heater housing is replaced. I have attached a video on the heater replacement.

Unfortunately i cannot find anything specific to this model to supply you with any additional information.The fresh food temperature is usually set to 37 or 38 degrees Fahrenheit so 43 degrees for a short period of time after a defrost cycle may not bee too far out of range. Unless you can find unit in a failed condition it would be very difficult to properly determine.You may want to see what the freezer temperature is at the time the fresh food is at 43 degrees to begin a log to record helpful information as the issue may progressively worsen.

Hello
The FL error is the door lock attempting to lock seven times and failing. Are you sure the door is closing tight and the latch is engaging ? After installing the switch did you reset the board by removing power to the unit for 2- minutes so the board can recognize the new switch? If this has been done you have a main PCB board or harness defective. I would start with the main PCB board first. I know they are expensive so on any questionable diagnostics we purcahse at Repair Clinic so you can return it if it happens to be the harness. I think 95% board and 5% harness from what we have seen in the field. Matt Ace technician

Hello
Not producing ice with good temperatures in the freezer section ? The proper temperatures should be -5 degrees to +10 degrees. Are you getting proper temperatures and just not producing ice.

Hello
The F40 code means the electronic control board is damaged or not functioning correctly. Matt Ace technician

Hello
You need to check first if their is a heavy even frost build up on the coil. Then next do a continuity test on the heater. If the heater has continuity, then check the defrost thermostat. If the heater and therm. are good then replace the adaptive defrost control.