All Answers

Hello. Below I have attached some tech sheets that will provide yo with more information than you need.

Hello, I did not find the exact video for that model number but I do have a video for a similar model. I have provided a link to that video at the bottom. hope this helps you out!

Hello
I have provided the tech. sheet link below. Run the diagnostics on this unit. There should be error codes stored . The freezer controls the fresh food section, if the freezer is not cooling properly the refrigerator will follow shortly there after. Let us know how it goes. Matt Ace technician

I have not seen this error for your model ( E ) . There are many different error codes in combination with the E error. I have attached the error codes manual to run the unit through diagnostics. Let us know if the error has any other letters or numbers.

This is common. Normally the spin basket is bent which causes it to contact the bellow. The propeller gets stripped from the shaft of the motor, but this is a separate issue. You will find a new inner tub support is needed. Door boot “smoking” may need replacement if torn badly. Remove all frayed nylon pieces from outer tub front to prevent noise after putting back together. Clean any and all hoses leading to the pump as well as completely cleaning pump, there is hope for the pump, but may also have been damaged so prepare customer for that scenario. The debris comes from the rear support breaking apart and lodging into hose before pump and into the filter of pump. Will look like grayish chunks.
Always order the 6 bolts for the tub support as they usually snap off (10MM socket) when removing from inner tub. (I believe the motor bolt is 19MM)
I have found the Samsung front load washers the quickest and easiest to replace the inner tub support! I use a power drill/driver to remove all the outer tub bolts to separate outer tub, and leave the back half hanging from the two upper springs.
Instruct the customer to cut way back on the detergent usage and the next support will go a much longer distance!

Ozone Generator is the only think we have found that works!
https://www.google.com/#q=ozone+generator&tbm=shop&spd=16141315583100733710
And they work great! A few other suggestions that may help .
1) Vinegar will get rid off it. Plus put coffee in the unit it will absorb the bad odors. But I think the unit needs to be off for the coffee to work.
2) Good old fashion Charcoal, the real kind. Don’t forget to flush out the condensate pan underneath. A lot of stinky stuff can dribble into the drain when the freezer thaws.
3) Loosely wadding up individual pages of newspaper and sprit zing them with water and pack them into the refrigerator and freezer, loosely. I would also suggest maybe putting them maybe in plastic shopping bags, or on plastic sheets, so as the ink from the paper doesn’t run and stain the plastic liner. The slightly wet newspapers will absorb the odors.
4) Place about a cup of ammonia in a bowl close the unit and let it set for a day or two. The ammonia will oxidize the odor causing bacteria

Hope this helps

I would start by checking your connections to the board and make sure they are all secure and not arcing. Then run the unit through the diagnostics the the tech. sheet provided in the link below. See if their are any stored error codes. If you have one start by replacing that component. We have had the same issue two different times and the first time it was an evaporator fan motor winding shorting out and taking out the board and the second time it was the auger motor. If you buy another board get it from Repair Clinic they have a buy it to try it warranty for one year. You do not want to pay out of pocket for another board. Matt Ace technician

Hello, I have attached a video that shows you how to remove the ice maker, The baffle helps disperse air for faster ice making capability

You will need the update water valve installation kit to correct this issue. The part number is in the link below. The complete kit must be installed to correct this issue. Matt Ace technician

Is the washer out of balance when there are no clothes in it? Sounds like the balance ring is okay since it has water in it still unless it has a hole and some of the water has leaked out. Could be the shocks if they are disconnected or worn out but like you said it shouldn’t be that violent with worn-out shocks. Is it loud in Spin? It could be a bad or loose bearing or clutch assembly. Do you have access to the the tech sheet? Run it through a diagnostic mode and check for stored errors as well.

To correct this issue you will need the service kit DA82-01415A leakage kit.

F8E5 is a Exhaust air error
See links below …Matt Ace technician
template detection
failure
1. Enter the Diagnostics Mode (press CANCEL –
CANCEL – START), and then press WARM HOLD
to display the HF NTC thermistor reading. Verify
the temperature reading is at room temperature
(typically 50ºF to 90º [10ºC to 32ºC]) and verify
failure code. If failure code matches complaint,
continue to Step 2.
2. Unplug microwave oven or disconnect power.
3. Disconnect HF NTC thermistor cable from ACU
PCBA.
4. Measure resistance between connector pins and
confirm reading is between 9.5k and 10.5k at
room temperature. If measurement is not
correct, or if a short or open circuit is found,
replace HF NTC thermistor.
5. Replace all parts and panels before operating.
6. Plug in microwave oven or reconnect power.
7. Enter the Diagnostics Mode (press CANCEL –
CANCEL – START), and then press WARM
HOLD to display the HF NTC thermistor
reading. Verify the temperature reading. If it is
still not correct, replace ACU PCBA.
8. If failure does not reap

There is a service bulletin fix to correct this issue. This # WR49X10254 will take care of your problem

Hello
If everything is running and you are drawing 1.25 amps you have a low refrigerant charge. If its an older model the average amp draw should be 3.0 to 3.9 depending on the model. You have a leak in the system most commonly in the evaporator, and if its an older model it could be in the yoder loop that goes through the center of the door to prevent condensation. I would need the model to verify that. In either case its an expensive fix. You can try (leak freeze) to stop the leak after recharging it . The stuff works if its an older model and you do not want to put a lot of money in it. Matt Ace technician

Hello
It sounds like you have a plugged drain that is located under the evaporator. These drains plug up and have a trap that gets lime and calcium deposits in them .You can make sure it is open a few different ways . 1) remove all of the ice and use a Turkey baster to push the deposits out. 2) Use a C02 tank, we carry them on our trucks with a hose to clear the drains. Then pour water down to verify its clear. Also check you door seals and make sure both doors are closing properly with no gaps. See links below to address your issue.

Hi. If you have proper power going to this unit then it sounds like you have a bad thermal line break switch. This is a safety fuse that will go bad if temperature got too hot during operation and cuts off power to all range components. I have attached the service manual on this unit look at page 61. It explains this further and how to test it.

Hello, This sounds like a classic no power at all issue. First thing would be to check your breakers and see if they have been tripped if so then flip the power back on and see if it pops the breaker again. Next step would be to check the outlet for power. If it has power than there may be a issue with the oven. Nothing will work with out the power. I have attached a technical document that has the wiring diagrams and such.

Based on the information you provided the evaporator cover would have a part number of AEB72913911 which would include the fan motor. If you have replaced both freezer sensors, did that include the thermal link and bi metal as well? You also want to test the defrost heater for continuity with your ohm meter. If all these steps have been taken and you’ve replaced or verified as good all of the parts I have listed then you may have a sealed system issue which would require a knowledgeable technician with proper equipment to tap the system and understand what pressure readings are in order to properly diagnose the required repair.

It appears that unless you replaced the center user interface which has a part number of W10031410 that you will need to replace that control also. You did not have that listed as a part number that you installed. if that control has been replaced and you still have same issue then either you have installed a bad part or you very well have a wiring harness issue.

Hello, do you have access to the tech sheet from inside the washer? it is located on the left side of the case on the inside. I have not found the tech sheet for this model yet. Do you get any error codes? What is it you mean about regular spin works but final spin doe not. can you tell me a little more about this issue?