All Answers

Hi. This is actually normal. The way the dispenser works is from a form of siphoning. IT has a port that sticks up and once the water flows through it and reaches the top of the port it flushes the soap out. Because of this there is always going to be some water left in the cup which is normal and has always been this way. As long as the soap is getting flushed out everything is fine.

Based on your model number and information you provided, the gas supply to your bake burner pilot assembly comes from a supply tube which originates from the oven thermostat.If you carefully disconnect the tube from the pilot assembly and see if you can light the end of your tube as if lighting the pilot and if there is no gas supply present then the oven thermostat would need to be replaced.Although it is and older range the thermostat is still readily available and the part number based on your model number is WB20K10033. Good luck.

Here is the service manual for you.

Thank you for your question.It sounds to me as though you have a broken drive coupling.(part # 285753a).I have attached a video for you that should be helpful.

Hello i could not find the tech sheet for this unit but i did find a service bulletin. with the issue you are having this maybe what your looking for. the tech sheet should either be behind the main control or on the side of the drum area in a envelope you can get access through the back panel to get to it.

Hi. It does sound like you have a faulty timer. p# WH12X10164 . I have attached a link to the part. Also, attached is a link to the service manual. Take a look at page 23. It provides you with steps to test the timer. See you have have 120v to the timer. If so and it will not work it must be a bad timer.

Hi. Yes. Unplug it for 10 mins to discharge and reset it. IF still nothing, check for proper voltage going into your control board. Inspect wiring and connections. Trace the power cord into the unit and into the board. Should be easy to do and then check for proper power there. Check the board for burnt marks. Some boards have fuses on them. The fuse could be bad. The fuses on these boards are usually not replaceable. If power in and no power coming out of the board the board is bad.

Hi. Kenmore can be difficult to look up information on. The tech sheet should be on the unit somewhere that will have our error code information. On this unit I would take the bottom drawer out and look on the sides inside the drawer cavity. It will be usually taped or in a bad taped to the side walls. It could also be in the control board cavity or on the back of the unit. I do not think it will be on the back of the unit since its a slide in or drop in style range. I have attached some links to some forums on this issue. They are not for your exact model but the error codes should still mean the same. I have also attached a link for the parts break down which has a wiring diagram on it as well. It will not let you look at the diagram when you click on it, but right click on the pic and then save as. Then you can save it to your desk top and view it. It looks like you have a communication error between the main board and User interface. Check your wiring and connections between the 2 boards. IF all is good then it could be either one of these parts that is bad. There is not going to be a way to determine which is bad. Look for burnt marks or corrosion. If there is a ribbon cable on the User interface check it for damage or discoloration.

Thanks for your question.To help you further i need exact test points and readings for your timer and lid switch. The timer testing is more than just having power. I will need much more detailed information from you in order to help you.

Based on your model number is sounds as though it may be your time.I have attached a video on the timer replacement based on your model number. (Part #137394000)

Thank you for your question.Here is a video of a Whirlpool dishwasher that is actually the same unit as your Kenmore unit.Good luck.

HI. Looks like you are missing some digits in that model number. After the 11 and before the US there should be 2 numbers I think. I have attached a tech sheet for possible your unit or a similar one. Take a look at page one to see if it covers your model. This has the error codes listed in it.

HI. I was not able to find any videos to gain access to this part for you. You will need to take the freezer apart to gain access to the evaporator where the defrost termination is. Take the door and baskets/ shelves out. Then the back panel or evaporator cover. I have attached the parts break down on your unit to help you see how it all comes apart. Also, I have attached our videos on defrost termination repairs.

HI. Your going to need to take apart the freeze to gain access to the evap fan motor. Remove the door and shelves, then take off the back panel. You will now have access to the fan. I have attached a couple of videos on this repair. They may not be the exact model or part but very similar. Let me know if you need any further assistance. Good luck on your repair.

The diverter valve should get 120 volts to it. I had one recently that was not getting the proper power. Found this out after I already had put a new one on. It ended up being the control board not sending correct voltage. New board fixed it. Check to see if it drains any water out. See if when it is suppose to be draining if you are getting water recirculated back into the tub. This would be a sign of a faulty diverter. You could have a faulty drain pump or something clogging it.

hello, if the washer is not draining it will not go into spin cycle. The diverter valve is a common issue for these washers, i could not find a real good video on this valve. it is located on the bottom of the washer, just tip it back and you will see it. I provided a link for the part.

I found a video on this repair for you.

Hello, i could not find a video on this model but i did provide a link to the parts breakdown I hope this helps. I do know this is a very extensive repair and you will need to take a lot of the washer apart to complete this repair, you may need a tub nut wrench.

Hello, I did not find that exact model but one that is very similar. I have attached the service document for that unit is should help you trouble shoot the issue you are having.

Thank you for your question.There is a solenoid in the back wall of your freezer.(part number WP2152713).There is a bar on the back of your ice bin that inserts into the the dispenser solenoid when the bin is in place.When you remove the bin you will see a square opening that the bar goes into.The solenoid plunges up when activated, opening the front of bin exit point allowing cubes to pass through without being crushed. I am fairly certain you will find the solenoid to be the issue.With the door switch depressed and the dispenser lever actuated you should get 110 volts at solenoid,and if so it is bad.