All Answers

Hi. 1. the thermal fuse will blow when the dryer overheats. Restricted air flow, clogged venting, bad blower wheel, or and element that is shorted out will cause this fuse to blow. There is also a hi limit t-stat that will cycle heat on and of if the cycling t-stat fails or there is restricted air flow.
2. Not sure which component you are referring to the overheat switch. There is a Hi limit t-stat that mounts on the element duct. This serves the same purpose as the thermal fuse. Only for the element instead of air flow. Restricted air flow as well as a shorted element will cause this to blow.
3. The 4 wire cycling t-stat monitors temperature. The 2 small purple wires are used during auto heat settings and the 2 larger wires during the timed dry. The 2 large terminals are the bi metal part of the t-stat. It will open when temperature is reached and close when temperature decreases to maintain a proper temp. These almost never fail.
4. The hi limit fuse that piggy backs off of one side of the element is another fuse that can go back. another safety device. Usually never go bad.

Also, here is the tech sheet on your unit. This has all of the error codes on it. Find your error code and follow the steps. Please let us know what you find out and if you need further help.

I have attached the tech sheet on this unit for you. Run the diagnostics and check for error codes. I think you have a wiring issue or a bad board. Check your wiring at the terminal block and at control board for damage. If all wiring is good It seems your board would be the issue.

Thank you for your question i am attaching a link with the information you need to enter diagnostics and repair help for your Samsung refrigerator.This should be he information you need.

Thanks for your question.Although tested properly at room temp it still may be thermistor issue.if you can locate a tech sheet it will guide you through diagnostic procedure.Are any error codes present when unit fails?I could not find exact model but i am attaching a link to several Samsung dryer videos and I hope you find one that helps.

That’s a 2010 unit. If it’s not filling correctly it will continuously beep with no fault code. Changing the control will only temporarily fix the problem. I’m not at the computer that has he Bosch look up but I’m pretty sure that unit is one of the ones with the fill line in the rear. If it is not correctly in the channel and fed thru the strap it can kink and pinch your water line off. A simple test is let the unit fill on it’s own and add some water and see if it runs thru without beeping. Sometimes it will save you pulling it out. I hope this corrects your issue, let us know if we can give you more assistance.

If the evaporator fan motor is running too slow it can cause all kinds of ice to form in
many strange locations. With normal run speeds you will find the moisture, which
occurs naturally, will migrate to the evaporator coil and freeze there where it will be
removed by a normal defrost.
First check thermisters for proper resistance (they can vary the speed of evap. fan)
You could also have humidity issues. This is the time of year that humidity rears it’s ugly head for refrigerator / freezers.
If everything checks OK, no leaks around seals, cabinet seems sealed tight, defrost drain has trap or check valve so air cannot be sucked back up inside after defrost, defrost process checks OK, dwell period, pre-chill timing is good, the moisture has to be coming from products in the box. I suggest checking that they actually seal open containers, DO NOT wash produce before putting in the box. Put produce away and only wash just before use. Washing produce adds to the humidity problem.

Hi. I can not find any videos on this drain pump. This drain pump has been revised and replaced by a different drain pump now per that service bulletin you had mentioned. There are 2 defferent drain pumps it looks like. Which one you need is depending on your serial number. I found this info. below.
Per Factory Service Bulletin, If You Have 400 Or 422 Series,
Need Dc98-01877b; If You Have 456, Need Dc98-01877a. Ro 6/14

I found a picture of the drain pump part number you listed. Looks like it comes with a new wire harness that will go back and plug into the board. The replacement of the new pump should be the same as the old pump for the most part.

Thank you for your question.Insects can cause control boards to short, but it is not uncommon to have a bake element burn up and damage the control.If the bake element was burned and badly damaged that would most likely be the cause of your control failure

Thank you for your inquiry.I located this link which should be what you are looking for with diagnostics included.I hope this helps.

Thank you for your question.I have reviewed breakdown of your model and there is no adjustment i can see on your hinge.It is possible the other hinge may be compromised and also needs replacement. I am sorry i did not find a more concrete diagnosis for you and will add any new information i may find.

Originally to replace the bearing you had to replace the whole outer tub which has the bearing in the tub. They have since came out with a bearing kit that you can replace using a special bearing tool so you do not have to replace the whole tub. p # W10435302- bearing kit. p# W10447783- bearing tool. They will not show this on the parts diagrams but if you look up the tub part number it will cross over on some sites to the bearing kit.

Hi. Thank you for your question. This is a VERY common issue with Samsung built units. Even though you defrost it and clear out the drain tube so it is draining water again, the problem will still come back the majority of the time. There is a clip that wraps around the heater and goes into the drain. p#WR51X10105 . Number 30 in the parts diagram that I have attached. This clip should work better than the copper wire to keep it from freezing again. Or you could use p#da61-06796a. This is a longer and wider heater clip that will transfer more heat deeper into the drain. I have attached a link with a picture of this part. Also, if the back panel is damaged, it could cause this to happen. The Styrofoam can get ripped or torn. If it is damaged I recommend replacing it. It is # 97, or 98 in the diagram. Attached are videos on this issue on other models.

Hi. Thank you for the question. I would suspect the water hoses and pump as well. Also, the door gasket. Check if for rips, holes, or tears. This will cause a water leak from the same area. There is a hole in the bottom of the unit. You can lay the unit down or tip the unit back to get access to the hole on the bottom where you can look inside the unit at. I have attached a video for a similar drain pump and for a door gasket. Not for your exact model but very similar. These videos will show you how to take them apart as well. If the top panel does not come off like the video there may be clips in the front to release and then it will lift up like the hood on a car. Let me know if you need anything further on this one.

Hello
The ice maker energizes the water inlet valve coil at the end of the harvest cycle. If the water is continuing to flow check for power at the coil harness at the valve on the ice maker side. If you do not have power at the harness when the ice maker is not cycling then you have a bad diaphragm in the valve. The valve diaphragm is not seated properly and water is leaking through. You will need to replace the valve . Here is the part number link https://www.savemoreonparts.com/part/geh/wr57x10050

I sent through that last answer before I was finished. Take a look at the link I sent above. It explains the error code better. Also, If you are getting basket movement before the error code occurs I would go with the CCU. IF no motor movement I would replace the MCU. I have had good success diagnosing this issue this way but it has not been 100% for me. I am attaching another link with more info for you as well.

Hi. Thank you for the question. The F11 error code is a communication error code just like you have stated. Unfortunately there is not a way test this to determine which one is faulty. It could be either board or a wiring issues. Check your connections at each board.

Thank you for your question.It could very well be a thermistor or thermostat issue.There should be be a tech sheet inside of machine somewhere if it has not been removed.Absent the tech sheet any thermostat can be tested for continuity with an ohm meter.You also can check the heating element for continuity as well.Please look for tech sheet for diagnostic information otherwise check any thermostat and heating element for continuity and we can continue further after you obtain results of your testing.I have uploaded a link to several Samsung dryer repair videos for you.Good luck.

Thank you for your question. There is no counter balance weight on this model. The dampening rods may be compromised as result of issue however most likely cause is due to tub bearing and there is a replacement kit which requires special tools.I have uploaded a link of repair video. good luck