All Answers

Hi. Are you seeing some kind of light? Or are you just just getting some noise now? As for the noise you could need to replace the front bearing or glides if they are worn down. The rear bearing could be creating noise as well. Check that everything got put back together right. Some times the seal might me pinched or a wire came loose and is hitting the drum. I have attached videos for the front glides and rear bearing.

Sorry. The break down did not come through. I am attaching it to this one. You should a link below to click on, that says parts break down. I figured the top would have to come off to service the components under it. I do not think I have ever seen one that does not. Sounds like from what you have seen and hear it does not though. That is strange. Take a look at the break down and see what you think and let me know.

I have seen wiring get melted and short out to ground causing this to happen. I have also seen 2 wires melt together causing the element to stay on as well when the dial is off. Check all of your wiring to both of those elements to make sure they are not shorted to ground anywhere else or melted together. I would repair the wiring first. If you still have issues you may have bad infinite (dial) switches. They could be shorted internally in the switch causing the same symptom. With 220 to the switch and nothing being sent to the element it would have to be a bad switch if the wiring is good.

Also, here is the tech sheet on this model for you.

Hi. I do believe the cook top comes off. I can not find any videos or information on this unit or its parts. I have attached the parts diagram and break downs for you. It appears that the back of the cook top has brackets on it. There may be screws to remove in those brakes or they may act like a hinge when you lift the front of the cook top up. Take a look in the top/drawer section to find this. After you remove the grates and burner caps take a look and see if there are any screws to remove from the cook top burners which are number 10 in the burner diagram. Also, you may need to take the control panel end caps off which are number 18 in the backgaurd diagram to remove the cook top. There may be screws under the end caps or under the front front of the control panel. Also, take a look around the outer edge of the unit( you will have to pull the unit out to do this), there could be screws securing they cook top in here. I hope this helps.

Hello, This style ice maker from electrolux/frigidaire has had a new version of the ice maker you may need to buy. I have attached a video. the new kits have a capillary tube heater that was not done at the factory with out the heater the ice builds up and freezing…. then not working. you will want to contact a factory authorized dealer for the kit part number.

I have found a video on this repair for you! Slightly different model and part but very similar repair.

Here is another service pointer on this issue that gives the part number for the fascia heater kit that you will need to install.

Hi. I do see you have 2 water valves on this unit. If you have one that is leaking or not closing all the way there is a way we can find out. We will have to isolate one of the valves or take a look at the water lines. There is no information on this unit to show me which valve is first in the system. The last valve in the system must be the one not closing or we would not have a leak. Even if the first valve was letting some water pass through the second valve would stop water flow. One valve is going to be your water inlet valve that the water line coming to the unit should hook up at. Then the water will flow through some water lines and to the other valve. Where is that water leaking at? Is it dripping at the water dispenser or over filling the ice maker? The SMART valve is located under the ice maker section in the parts break down and it only has one port coming out of it so I am thinking this may be the ice maker valve. But it could also be the valve that is first in the series for both dispenser and ice maker. You will need to figure out which valve the water runs through last to get to is destination where you have the water overflow at. You can do this by tracing the water lines through the system. I can not find any videos anywhere for this ice maker. We are currently working on having one for the future. However the document I attached in your previous question has a complete instruction sheet on how to get to the ice maker. Please refer to that for your ice maker repair.I have attached the parts break down for this unit as well.

Hello and thanks for your question. Based on your model number, the control and function keys are one unit mounted inside an inactive console and therefore if you are unable to change the cycle selection, the control itself would require replacement. I hope this info helps with your repair.

Hi. There is also a service pointer out on your unit from the manufacture for the issue you are having. I have attached the document for you. The part number you need should be in this document, along with the instructions.

From what i am seeing on the parts breakdown this is the standard whirlpool ice maker. there will be 2 screws along the top edge above the ice tray and may have one on the bottom. If the freezer had frost build up on the back wall it could be a defrost issue but if ice is growing on your food and other areas than you will need to check to make sure the door is sealing properly.

Hello, This is a Frigidaire style Kenmore machine. I have found that in most cases when I hear a noise like that the first thin to check is the rear baring. I have attached the part number and video. the model is different but the baring is the same.

Hi. We do not currently have a videos for these repairs yet. I have attached the parts diagram for the parts you are needing to install. I hope this helps you in re assembling the door. You can also get the whole door assembly It is part # ADC73685901.

Hi. Lets see if we can put this unit in to the diagnostic mode and test different components out. I have attached the service manual out. On page 42 you will find the instructions on how to enter in to the service mode and test different components out. Let me know what you find.

I have attached the tech sheet for this you. It looks like the fan motor is wire directly back to the main board. Im not seeing any door switches or any thing else in the circuit. It looks like this is a DC fan motor. Your getting 122V AC to the fan motor? It should be around 10V dc if i recall right.

Yes we do! I have attached a link to videos on this repair for you.

Hi. I have seen similar issues on this unit before. I think you have a shorted wire inside the unit. You will take the top off of the unit to get to the burner wires inside. There probably is a wire that is touching the cabinet inside somewhere. The screws to remove the top may be around the inside edge under the burner inserts. IF not they are around the outside edge and you will have to uninstall the unit to get to them.

Hi. Take a look at the first link that Kris provided. It explains the installation process for the handles on custom panel doors. This will help you in being able to take the handles off.

Here is that link again.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/m5mdwdgkw72tgqi/HKFDS_DFBB_DFSB_Designer_Handle_Kit_Installation_Instruction.pdf?dl=0