All Answers

It is the most common issue I usually deal with on bosh dishwashers the main water inlet valve needs to be replaced! They get leaky and the tub will slowly over flow and it goes directly into the base tripping the flood switch or leak out front before tripping the flood switch.

Hello, Did you check voltage at the compressor? The light issue sounds to me like a short, did it do this with the old control?

Hello, if you have changed out the control and the fan, next step is to make sure all the door switches are working properly.

Hello, I have attached a controls diagram diagram for this fridge. All parts can be purchased individually. The dampener could be the issue, you should also look to see if there is frost build up in the freezer. It is possible the defrost control has gone bad or the defrost thermostat or the heater.

F1X2 is a heater over temp failure.
X= the burner that experienced the fault.

(1) Check 10-wire harness running from the display board to the main board. Recycle
power to the cooktop.
(2) If fault persists, replace main board and recalibrate inductive sensors.
(3) If fault persists, replace display board.
(1) Recycle power to the cooktop.
(2) If fault persists, replace main board and recalibrate inductive sensors.
Same as 103
(1) Recycle power to the cooktop.
(2) If fault persists, test line voltage supplied to cooktop at the wall outlet. Voltage should read
from 175VAC-265VAC. If it does not, there is a problem with the power being
supplied to the cooktop
(3) If fault persists, replace power board.
(4) If fault persists, replace main board and recalibrate inductive sensors.
(1) Recycle power to the cooktop.
(2) Replace main board and recalibrate inductive sensors.
Same as 105
(1) Check all heater, sensor, and wire harness connectors. Make sure they are tight and secure.
Check heater ribbon for possible damage.
(2) Measure resistance across the heater ribbon at the heater terminals. Resistance should read
from 20-80 Ohms. If it does not, replace the heater and recalibrate the inductive sensors.
(3) If fault persists, remove sensor connector from the board and measure RTD resistance.
Should read from 1030-1150 Ohms (46°F-102°F).If it does not, replace the heater and
recalibrate inductive sensors.
(4) If fault persists, replace power board.
(5) If fault persists, replace main board and recalibrate inductive sensors.
(1) Check all heater, sensor, and wire harness connectors. Make sure they are tight and secure
Check heater ribbon for possible damage.
(2) Remove sensor connector from the board and measure RTD resistance. Should read from
1030-1150 Ohms (46°F-102°F.) If it does not, replace the heater and recalibrate inductive
sensors.
(3) If fault persists, replace main board and recalibrate inductive sensors.
Same as 1X3
1
(1) Check all heater, sensor, and wire harness connectors. Make sure they are tight and secure.
Check heater ribbon for possible damage.
(2) If fault persists, replace power board.
(3) If fault persists, replace main board and recalibrate inductive sensors.
(1) Check all heater, sensor, and wire harness connectors. Make sure they are tight and secure.
Check heater ribbon for possible damage.
(2) Remove sensor connector from the board and measure resistance across the inductive
sensor. Should read from 0.001-2.00 Ohms. If it does not, replace the heater and recalibrate
inductive sensors.
(3) If fault persists, replace main board and recalibrate inductive sensors.
(1) Replace main board and recalibrate inductive sensors.
(1) Replace main board and recalibrate inductive sensors.
(1) Recycle power to the cooktop.
(2) If fault persists, replace ceramic glass maintop assembly
(3) If fault persists, replace display board.
Same as 170
Same as 170
(1)

Here are two links to show you how the panel is installed and the handle. It appears that you will need to remove the panel to get to the handle bolts

https://www.dropbox.com/s/m5mdwdgkw72tgqi/HKFDS_DFBB_DFSB_Designer_Handle_Kit_Installation_Instruction.pdf?dl=0

http://www.vikingrange.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m2340064_48_VCSB-D,VISB-D,DDSB-D,DFSB-D_BI_SbyS_Frg-Frz_wDisp_CP.pdf

The best way to remove spin basket if stuck to outer tub is too spray wd40 and let set overnight. If still does not slip out may need to use sledge hammer and punch. Have had to heat bearing with torches as well if all other options do not work.

Run the diagnostics and let us know what error codes are stored.
The washer control has a field service mode that
can be accessed by the service technician in
order to give critical information on the status of
various components of the washer. This mode will
aid the service technician in quickly identifying
failed or improper operation of components and
systems.
The service mode does not use error codes to
identify problems. Instead, the LCD screen
displays a list of components or systems to be
checked if a problem is detected.
To enter the service mode:
Note: Once the service mode is entered, all
membrane keypanel buttons are disabled.
1. Press the POWER key to turn the washer on.
a. If the washer is on and the HOME screen
is displayed, proceed to step 2. If the
home screen is not displayed, press
HOME on the keypanel.
TROUBLE SHOOTER
MACHINE
PREFERENCES
HOME SCREEN
HELP
BY COLOR BY GARMENT
TOUCH TO SELECT WASH CYCLE
BY
FABRIC
SPECIAL
CYCLES
STAIN
INSPECTOR
2. Press HELP. The main help screen is
displayed.
• A MORE icon will be displayed on the LCD
screen if additional problems have been
recorded. Press MORE to list additional
errors.
4. If errors have been recorded, use the error
chart in the troubleshooting section for proper
diagnostic procedures.
• Use the BACK pad on the keypanel
membrane to scroll back thro

This dryer does not have any thermostats from the exit side of the blower housing. There is the operating thermostat on the blower housing but nothing past that, Is this hole with wires in the dryer or on the vent tube?

The only thermostats on this dryer are located behind the drum and on the blower housing.

Hi. Yes the drum outlet bias thermostat does appear to be in the front of the unit located on the blower housing. I do not see any holes or parts that would be located in the duct near the back either. The other thermostats and hi limit fuse are located on the top of the element housing. They are numbers 505 , 506, and 507 in this diagram. The thermostats do not usually go bad. The hi limit fuse would be my first suspect.

Hi. If just the heavy light is blinking, then this is a leakage error. I have attached the tech sheet on this unit for you. It explains this could be an issue with the main PCB or drain pump or leak sensor. It is hard to say what is causing a leakage error since you do not have any water leaking, which would be detected by the leak sensor on the bottom. I would try and run the unit through a test cycle in diagnostic mode. Refer to the service inspection mode in the tech sheet. I do not believe this unit will show any stored error codes. It would be nice to see if there are any other error codes. Let me know what you find and good luck!

Hi. It looks like the valve is a part of the water tank/ filter assembly. Located in the refrigerator. You can not order just the valves. The part number is DA97-11435A. I have attached a video that should be similar to your unit and part.

Hello, does it blow the fuse when the mag tube is disconnected? you will need to disconnect the high voltage side of the microwave, typically it will be a shorted mag tube that blows the fuse. That model number is not a full number, i cannot find a proper wiring diagram without the full model number.

Hello, when you say over filling do you mean there is water left in the tub after a cycle or is it over flowing out of the drawer? If it still has water at the ends of the cycle you will need to check the drain line, air gap,also look at where the drain hose hooks up to the disposal the two hoses should be hooked up vertically so they looked stacked. hot water can make the hoses go limp and then it kinks causing a restriction

WATER LINE FREEZING
ALL LINER SIDE-BY-SIDE MODELS
BUILT JANUARY 2003 THROUGH
JANUARY 2007 (AF-AM MODELS)
Moisture migration into door foam may cause
dispenser tube to freeze, resulting in no water
dispensed.
MODELS AFFECTED
All metal liner SxS production built January 2003 through January 2007 (serial numbers AF through AM):
Models BSS, DSS, ESH, GSH, GSS, GST, HSS, SSS
REPAIR/RESOLUTION
Install service kit WR49X10173, dispenser heater.
• Remove the board and cradle assembly from the dispenser housing.
• The heater will be applied to the recessed area below the ice duct door. Note: Clean and dry this area as thoroughly as possible.
• Peel the paper backing off of the heater and apply it in the recessed area below the ice duct door. Press firmly over the entire surface to ensure adequate adhesion, forming it around the dispenser tube as necessary.
• Route the white lead wires to the dispenser housing to the left of the ice duct door, as shown, to prevent the wires from interfering with the duct door. Make sure the wires do not interfere with ice/water path or movement of the duct door.
• Connect heater wires to wire harness using the red fold-over splices provided. Do not cut wires on the unit. If there is no heater already installed on the ice duct door, attach heater wires to the red wire on pin 2 and black wire on pin 6 as shown in the figure at right below. If there is an ice duct door heater kit installed, the instructions for the kit specify a different method that must be used to properly attach
the heater.
W
ire HarnessHeaterLeadWires Install Heater HereIce Duct Door07D-2215-AFigure 2Pin 2Red WirePin 6Black/WhiteWire1 ”Splice Here
WR49X10173 – Dispenser Water Tube Heater Kit
Installation Instructions
Supersedes All Previous Instructions
This service part must be installed by the technician.
Pub. No. 31-46112
Part No. 197D7768P001
* NOTE: This kit is specifically designed for refrigerator
models with metal liners.
Prior to Installation, please verify “no water dispense”
is root caused to frozen water line. The quickest way to
determine if the failure is due to a frozen water line is to
first ensure that water does NOT dispense. Next, disconnect
the blue connector at the bottom of the door and
ensure that water flows when the paddle is pressed. Use
a cup/container to avoid a water spill while conducting
this test.
1. Remove the board and cradle assembly from the dispenser
housing.
2. The heater will be applied to the recessed area below
the ice duct door. See Figure 1. Clean this area as thoroughly
as possible.
3. Peel the paper backing off of the heater and apply
it in the recessed area below the ice duct door. See
Figure 1. Press firmly over the entire surface to ensure
adequate adhesion, forming it around the dispenser
tube as necessary.
4. Route the heater lead wires to the dispenser housing
to the left of the ice duct door, as shown in Figure 1, to
prevent the wires from interfering with the duct door.
5. Connect heater wires using the red fold-over splices
provided. Do NOT cut wires on the unit; instructions for
proper use of splice connectors are below. Depending
on how the refrigerator is equipped, there are two
methods for installation:
If there is NO heater kit installed on the ice duct door,
attach heater wires to red wire on pin 2 and black and
white wire on pin 6. Attach splices 1” from the grommet
where the wires come out of the top of the dispenser
recess. See Figure 2.
NOTE: Red splice connectors (included in kit) are for
Low Voltage DC only.
Wire Harness
Heater
Lead
Wires
Install
Heater Here
Ice Duct Door
Figure 2
Figure 1
Figure 2
Pin 2
Red Wire
Pin 6
Black/White
Wire
1 ”
Splice Here
If there IS a heater kit installed on the ice duct door, attach heater wire leads of this kit to the wire leads from the ice duct door heater 2” from the splice connectors that attach the ice duct door heater to the wires on pins 2 and 6. Ensure that the wires are not interfering with the ice duct door, and that ice has an unrestricted path into the dispenser recess area. If possible, bunch up the excess wire leads from both heaters and use a wire tie to keep them together and out of the way. Leave enough slack in the leads to allow for proper function of the ice duct door and for reconnection of the wires to the control board. See Figure 3.
To properly use each red splice connector, position the heater wire into the side of splice connector that does not allow the wire to pass all the way through: Insert the appropriate wire (from pin 2/6) into the other side of the splice connector. Hold the wires securely in place before crimping the metal conductor gate on the splice connector using pliers. Avoid using too much force, but crimp until the metal gate conductor is flush with the red plastic housing. Complete the connection by folding the red plastic flap over the crimped metal conductor gate. See Figure 4.
6. Check heater functionality using your finger to ensure heater is warm after approximately one minute after connecting the heater wires. To get power to the heater, temporarily plug the 6-prong connector into the control board.
7. Replace dispenser cradle assembly and control board. See Figure 5 for wire routing.
* NOTE: It could take up to a day for the heater to thaw ice/enable water to flow properly from the dispenser.
Figure 4Heater WireMetal ConductorWire from Pin 6 (or Pin 2)Red Plastic FlapRed Plastic HousingSplice Connectors
Figure 3
Figure 4
Figure 5
Bunch andWire TieExcess LeadWire fromHeatersIce Duct DoorHeater WireLeadsSplice Hereinto Ice DuctDoor WireLeadsHeater WireLeads2”

Hi. Very likely that the power surge has damaged one of the control boards. Sounds like the main control board is working properly. With no agitation or spin( no motor movement) I would suspect the Motor/inverter assembly. p# WH20X10094. I did not find your model number. I think I found your model number which is GTWN4250D1WS. These units usually have a fuse that is in line with the motor. It will cause this same symptom. I am not finding a fuse on this unit in the parts break down. It would be located in the wire harness under the front panel, on the top right side just under the lid switch. It will be covered by black tape. Usually a white/red white. I would check this as well. Under the control panel should be the tech sheet on this unit. You can use it to run a test cycle or check for error codes. The inverter on motor has a green light that flashes and will give error codes as explained on the tech sheet. I have attached the service manual for this unit as well.

Hi. Was the element you replaced the bake element? This element is hidden under the bottom panel. p# 4451175 ?? IF the bake element and control have been replaced you could have a voltage or wiring issue. There are no other parts that are related to the unit baking. You have your control that sends power to the element. SO the wire harness would be the only thing left. Inspect your wires and check for proper power at the outlet and terminal block. I have attached the tech sheet on this unit for you as well.

Hi. IF your not getting water for the dispenser and ice maker your issue is most likely no water coming to the unit. I would verify that you have good pressure to the unit first. Turn the water valve off. Take the incoming water line off of the inlet valve or if it connects to a line directly take it off there. Place it in a bucket and turn the valve back on and see if there is good pressure coming into the bucket.

Hi. By “freezing up” do you mean the motor is seizing up and not running? Or is there ice/ frost build up on the motor? Does the unit give you any error codes? Does just the ice maker stop working when this happens or are you having other issues/ symptoms as well?

Hi. I am not able to look up that model number you provided. Please recheck that model number and let me know. In most cases you will need to remove the cook top from the counter and the screws will be around the out side edges to remove. The knobs will need to come off and there may be some nuts under the knobs to remove. If this is a gas cook top, there may be screws securing the burners that will need to be removed.