All Answers

Hi. I’m not sure why the lock light would be flashing. Error codes are displayed as letters and numbers on the display on this unit. Does this unit have a digital display? I have attached the tech sheet for you. I would follow the steps to enter diagnostic mode and check for any stored error codes. Let me know if you need any further assistance.

We rebuild the boards here is a link for your control. http://www.fixyourboard.com/boards/3195186.html
I hope this helps Matt Ace technician

HI. I am not able to look this model number up. Please re check that model number. I have it as ades303dww . What brand is this?

Hi. That is a strange one. Could be a voltage/ electrical issue. Check your outlet for proper power and polarity. If that checks out good, then we need to check voltage at the board. Put your meter leads on the the incoming voltage connector at the board. Turn on a bake cycle and let it run for that 1 min. until it shuts itself off and monitor the voltage on your meter during this process to see what is happening and let me know. It could be pulling too many amps for the electrical circuit in the house. If voltage looks good, check amp draw next. I have attached the tech sheet for you as well. Run the diagnostics and see what you can find out with that as well.

Hi. I have seen a few of these units. They all had issues with the fresh food evaporator fan motor. p# WR49X25197 They have made some changes to this part. Usually the complaint has been that temps are warm in the refrigerator. The display will read about 60. The refrigerator has its own separate evaporator and evap fan. This can cause things in the lower section of the unit to freeze, especially if the evap fan motor is not working properly. This could also be creating the condensation.

Are you getting any error codes ? See tech. sheet link below. Is their a possibility of the refrigerator door not getting closed completely all of the time ? Matt Ace technician

I have attached a video for this repair as well. The new kit is a little different than the one used in the video. They revised the part again after the video was made. It should just be a difference in the rear seal.

That is called a defrost termination switch, if it is deformed it needs ti be replaced. I recommend installing a new defrost termination on this unit. See parts and video links below.

Hi. There has been an update to some parts to take care of condensation issues on your unit. I have attached 2 documents that explain this. You will need p# W10619962. It will come will every thing you need for both documents I have attached.

Thanks for the question. You will need to check for a possible door left open to start. I would also check for air flow to the fresh food section as well. If the unit still has the wiring diagram on the back of the unit you can possibly make your checks from the control board. If not then I would check in the evaporator section for a possible defective heater, bi-metal and or sensor(possibly can check from board). You might have to defrost the evaporator to gain access to the parts. If you defrost it completely the bi-metal will show open at room temp so you will have to allow it to cool back down to test or remove and submerge in ice water to bring back down to temp to see if it closes. I would check the resistance on the sensor and the heater per the tech sheet or wire diagram.

I recommend replacing the blower wheel on this unit. If the blower wheel is rubbing it will cause an overheating condition .Check the blower wheel and replace if its rubbing. See parts and video links below.

If you have power to the unit check continuity on the switch. If you do not have continuity I recommend installing a new lid switch on this unit.

Hello,
There are a few possibilities that can cause condensation. 1) There is a service bulletin on this issue click the link below that says Fix for condensation issue. 2) Make sure food containers are not restricting or letting the door shut properly. 3) Make sure the interior lights are shutting off when the door is closed. 3) Check the ice maker heater is not stuck on in the harvest cycle. Matt Ace technician

Check the heating element for continuity , if you no continuity I recommend installing a new heating element on this unit. See parts and video links below.

Check the condenser fan motor in the back by the compressor, if its not running I recommend installing a new condenser fan motor on this unit. See links below.

I recommend to start by replacing the thermo fuse and thermostat on this unit if you have 220 volts into the terminal block of the dryer . See parts and video links below.

You could have a defrost timer , defrost thermostat or defrost heat . I recommend starting off with replacing the defrost time on this unit. See parts and video links below.

Hi. I have attached the tech sheet on this dryer for you.

Here is the tech sheet on this unit for you. ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/Anderson/240389639.pdf . It shows how to cycle the ice maker. You can also just grab and pull on the racks of the ice maker, but it is not recommended in fear of breaking or damaging the ice maker. A lot of things can cause it not to make ice. A bad inlet valve or bad ice maker. First make sure temperature is cold enough in the freezer to make ice. Then cycle the ice maker and see if it goes through a cycle and fills with water. If no water check for ice in the fill tube, poor water pressure or a faulty inlet valve. If it gets water and still not producing ice you more than likely have a faulty ice maker.