All Answers

Yes. You are right. That’s is going to be a bad touch panel. You will need to replace the control panel. P# wp8534840.

Hi. Which hose is it leaking from? Here is a link for the parts diagram. http://lookup.appliancevideo.com/lookup/213694/1452152 Are you referring to number 5 on diagram? The ventilation hose? I do believe the clean washer cycle does fill up with more water than a wash cycle, but it still should not be leaking out. Is there too many suds in the unit ? Does this hose have a crack or a bad seal? Le me know. Thanks.

Usually this means a bad control board. Could also be a shorted element or wire somewhere in the unit. Check for anything shorted. If you find nothing I would replace the control.

SO on this we use process of elimination. You have tested the heater and thermostat, the only thing left is the control. We know it still is not defrosting because if freezes back up.

OK. SO the unit was not self defrosting? You had heavy frost on the coils that was blocking air flow? IF so, I would replace the timer. When you manually advanced the timer it did go into defrost and the heater turned on, so you know everything else in defrost is working. The timer may be getting stuck. Also, make sure the drain tube under the evap is not clogged created ice to back up. This blocks air flow as well.

Hi. I have attached the tech sheet for you on your unit. There are several F1 error codes. There should be a dash and another number with the “F1”. So, it should look like F1-7. What is your full error code. Look on page 8 of the tech sheet for the list of error codes. Sounds like the control board was not the issue. With the panel getting to hot, it sounds like the cooling fan may not be running, or air flow is blocked preventing air circulation to keep the controls from overheating. This will cause and error code. Let me know if that fan is running and what error code you are getting.

I have had two in 3 months and both showed good defrost t-stats. Replaced t-stats on both and that took care of the defrost problem. You also must check that defrost heater is good. This is the W10219463 control, one which must be sent in to be rebuilt. It controls the adaptive defrost cycling.

I have provided two links on the outer door assembly for your model. Let us know if this helps.

Hi. Yes this unit does have a capacitor. It is p# WH12X10212. It is located under the front panel attached to the cabinet on the right side. I have the parts break down attached for you to take a look at. The capacitor is number 217 on the diagram. This is most likely your culprit causing the unit to not spin.

It should have an even frost pattern across the the whole evaporator. If you have a thermostat or lazor thermometer the coil temperature should be -15 degrees to -20 degrees. If it is not that temperature on the top an bottom of the coil you have a sealed system leak. 95% chance its in the evaporator. In that case you would need to replace the evaporator. I have attached a video link for a evaporator replacement and we have several more on our website.

Are you are positive the compressor is running, these compressors are very quiet. If the compressor is definitely running the next step would be to remove the evaporator cover to examine the frost pattern on the evaporator. There is a link below to click to show you the freezer cover assembly and how it comes off. Once you remove the cover you should have a light even frost pattern across the evaporator . If you have frost on the cover and heavy frost build up on the evaporator this is telling us you have a part of your defrost system defective. So hear is an overview once you get the evaporator cover off.
1) Heavy frost build up – Part of defrost system is defective -email me for next step.
2) While unit is running and no frost on coil – This means a leak in system or weak suction valve in compressor.
3) Half the coil frosted and half not – low refrigerant charge leak in system most likely evaporator.

If your problem is number ( 1) it is cost effective to repair . If its 2-3 it is very expensive to replace the evaporator or compressor. Let me know what you find.

Hello
If you have 120 volts at the compressor you have two possibilities.
1) You have a defective compressor starting components at the compressor. The components you will need are a starter relay and run capacitor. I have provided part numbers and links below for both parts.
2) You have a compressor that is tied up or locked up and that is called ( LRA ) locked rotor Amprege. If you have an meter to check amprege the average running amprege functioning properly should be .4 to .7 amps. If your amprege is 1.0 or higher you have a defective compressor. If you do not have a amp probe you can try the relay and run capacitor. They are under $60.00 for both parts.
Thanks Matt Ace technician

Hi. I have attached the tech sheet oh this unit for you. Did the unit spin while you were there? If the unit is still not draining, check to see if you can hear that drain pump running or humming. If so and still no drain you have a clog or a bad drain pump. I have gone out on units not draining before and found it would drain for me, but under a heavy load it would not. The impellers inside the pumps can get sloppy and loose and will cause this to happen.

I am not able to find any information on this unit for you. I have spent a good amount of time searching through all of my resources and found nothing. Danby is very hard to get information on. I did find the part number for the tub, but no information out there on that either. Sorry we could not assist you on this one.

I am not able to find any information on this unit for you. I have spent a good amount of time searching through all of my resources and found nothing. Danby is very hard to get information on. I did find the part number for the tub, but no information out there on that either. Sorry we could not assist you on this one.

This is the finger-ice maker unit, a model which was made for about 2 years. It was so problematic, that Electrolux went with a flex tray design later. The gurgling and hissing noises are the sounds of refrigerant moving thru the ice maker evaporator. The unit was produced between 2008 and 2010, most likely.look at the fingers on the evaporator see if they are crushed on the tips, Frigidaire has been replacing the refrigerator. Clicking is also commonly caused by the gear box and motor on this unit all the gears are plastic an I normally replace both at the time of service. There is also a fan that could be hitting ice at the ice box evaporator if the gear box is good. To check it put the unit into a motor cycle from service mode with ice bin out. BIN MUST BE REMOVED PRIOR OR DAMAGE WILL RESULT if the gear box or motor is damaged it will drop and not complete the move to home.See ice maker videos. https://www.appliancevideo.com/?cat=&s=frigidare+ice+maker&post_type%5B%5D=post&post_type%5B%5D=premiumvideos&post_type%5B%5D=fromthefield&post_type%5B%5D=embdvideo

Here is the diagnostics. See video link below…https://www.appliancevideo.com/maytag-mf12665xeb0-refrigerator-repair-has-ice-buildup-in-freezer-drain-grommet/
Control board Troubleshooting
Programming Mode:
NOTE: The Program Code is located on the Serial Plate on this unit after the word Code.
1. Press and hold the Door Alarm Keypad.
2. Press and hold Freezer Temperature DOWN /- Keypad within 3 seconds.
3. Release the Door Alarm Keypad and wait 3 seconds.
4. The control will display PE to indicate the programming mode.
5. Entry is confirmed by pressing the Freezer Temperature DOWN /- Keypad once more.
6. The control will display the current Program CODE. This value should be validated with theProgram CODE printed on the unit serial plate.
NOTE: If the Program CODE is correct, the Programming Mode is exited by pressing Door Alarm Keypad for 3 seconds.
7. Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP /+ Keypad or Refrigerator Temperature DOWN /- Keypad to change the digit value with each key press.
8. The decimal point indicates the selected digit. Press the Freezer Temperature UP /+ Keypad to select the next digit.
9. Once the desired Program CODE is entered, press and hold the Freezer Temperature DOWN /- Keypad until the Program CODE begins flashing
indicating it has been saved.
NOTE: If you attempt to enter an invalid Program CODE the control will not save the new code, but will beep. (The unit will NOT run with a Program
CODE of 0000).Once the Program CODE has been saved the Programming Mode is exited by pressing any key. If the new code is incorrect this
process should be repeated.
The Programming mode can be exited at any time by pressing Door Alarm key for 3 seconds or will exit if unattended for four minutes.
Defrost Operation:
The Control Board adapts the compressor run time between defrosts to achieve optimum defrost intervals by monitoring the length of time the defrost
heater is on. After initial power up, defrost interval is 4 hours compressor run time. Defrost occurs immediately after the 4 hours.
Forced Defrost Mode:
The forced defrost function is performed using the Freezer display and Refrigerator keypad. Enter the Forced Defrost Mode by performing the
following sequence of events:
1. Press and hold the Door Alarm Keypad .
2. Press and hold Refrigerator Temperature DOWN /- Keypad.
3. Release the Door Alarm Keypad and wait 3 seconds. Fd appears in Freezer display.
4. Press the Refrigerator Temperature DOWN /- Keypad again. Sh appears in right display.
5. Press again to force defrost Fd and Sh will flash in display indicating unit is in defrost.
Service Test Mode:
The service test functions are performed using the refrigerator display and keypad. Enter the Service Test Mode by performing the following sequence
of events:
1. Press and hold the Door Alarm Keypad.
2. Press and hold Refrigerator Temperature UP / + Keypad.
3. Release the Door Alarm Keypad and wait 3 seconds.
4. The Freezer display will display SE confirming entry in the Service Mode.
5. Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP /+ Keypad again to confirm entry in the Service Mode.
6. Display will show 101 in left display and numeric or dashes in right display.
7. Press Freezer Refrigerator Temperature UP / + Keypad and Freezer DOWN /- Keypad to toggle through Service Test numbers.
8. To exit service test mode, open and close refrigerator door or hold door alarm for 3 seconds.
Service Test – 101 Defrost Heater & Defrost Circuit
• Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP /+ keypad and Refrigerator DOWN /- keypad to energize or de-energize the Defrost circuit. The
display will read OFF when de-energized, OP when energized with open defrost thermostat and CL when energized with closed defrost thermostat.
Service Test – 102 Compressor / Condenser Fan
• Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP /+ keypad and Refrigerator DOWN /- keypad to toggle Compressor/Condenser fan On and Off.
Service Test – 112 Freezer Fan
• Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP /+ keypad and Refrigerator DOWN /- keypad to toggle Freezer Fan On High speed, Low speed and Off.
NOTE: Display will show state 0.0 for OFF, 11.0-14.0 volts for High speed or 7.75- 8.25 volts for Low speed.
Service Test – 113 Ice Compartment Fan
• Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP /+ keypad and Refrigerator DOWN /- keypad to toggle Ice compartment Fan On High speed, Low
speed and Off.
NOTE: Display will show state 0.0 for OFF, 11.0-14.0 volts for High speed or 7.75- 8.25 volts for Low speed.
Service Test – 121 Damper Operation
• Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP/+ keypad and DOWN /- keypad to toggle Damper OP open and CL closed.
NOTE: If damper is opening or closing it will not allow you to toggle damper and beep. Display will show state –CL or –OP if Damper is in the
process of closing or opening.
Service Test – 131 Mullion Heater
• Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP/+ keypad and DOWN /- Keypad to toggle Mullion Heater Off and On.
Service Test – 141 Fresh Food Thermistor
• Will Show Fresh Food Temperature or OP for open thermistor or SH for shorted thermistor.
Service Test – 142 Freezer Thermistor
• Will Show Freezer Temperature or OP for open thermistor or SH for shorted thermistor.
Service Test – 144 Ambient Thermistor
• Will Show AmbientTemperature or, OP open thermistor or SH shorted thermistor.
Service Test – 145 Ice Box Thermistor
• Will Show Ice BoxTemperature or, OP open thermistor or SH shorted thermistor.
Service Test – 151 Fresh Food Door State
• Will show state of Fresh Food Door. OP (open) CL (closed).
NOTE: By pushing either Fresh Food Door switches you can toggle state from OP (open) to CL (closed).
Service Test – 152 Freezer Food Door State
• Will show state of Freezer Door. OP (open) CL (closed).
NOTE: By pushing Freezer Door Switch you can toggle state from OP (open) to CL (closed).
Service Test – 153 Disable Internal Lights
• Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP/+ keypad and DOWN /- keypad to toggle Enable En and Disable dIS internal lights.
Service Test – 163 Water Dispenser
• Display shows the state of the Water Dispenser Valve (On or OFF).
NOTE: By pushing Actuator pad or Front Fill you can control state of Water Dispenser Valve.
Service Test – 164 External Ice Chute Door
• Display shows the state of the External Ice Chute Door CL (closed) or OP (open).
NOTE: By pushing Actuator pad you can control state of External Ice Chute Door.
Service Test – 165 Dispenser Lamp
• Display shows the state of the Dispenser Lamp (On or OFF).
NOTE: By pushing Actuator pad or Front Fill you can control state of dispenser lamp.
Service Test – 167 Cavity Heater Test (On some models)
• Toggles the state of the Cavity Heater On or OFF.
NOTE: Pushing Refrigerator Temperature UP/+ keypad and DOWN /- keypad toggles the cavity heaters state to On or OFF
Service Test – 168 Cube Dispenser and Internal Ice Chute Door Operation
• Display shows the state of the ice auger motor and the internal ice chute door. (On or OFF)
NOTE: By pushing actuator pad you can control state of the Ice auger motor and the internal ice chute door.
Service Test – 171 Actuator Pad
• Display shows the state of the Actuator Pad (On or OFF).
Service Test – 172 Front Fill (On some models)
• Display shows the state of the Front Fill (On or OFF).
Service Test – 173 Ambient Light
• Display shows light sensor measurement (Hi or Lo). Night light will turn on when light sensor measures Lo.
By changing the sensor’s exposure to ambient light you can control the sensor measurement.
Service Test – 175 Dispenser Line
• Display shows the state of the Dispenser Line (On or OFF).
NOTE: By pushing Actuator pad or Front Fill you can change state of Dispenser Line.
Service Test – 182 LED Indicator Operation
• Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP/+ keypad and DOWN /- Keypad to show operation of LED Indicators. All LED Indicators will flash.
Press again and LED will stop flashing.
Service Test – 183 Keypad Operation
• Display shows a numeric or letter display indicating the last key pressed.
NOTE: Refrigerator Temperature UP/DOWN keypads have no effect when pressed and Freezer Temperature UP/DOWN keypads remain operational.
Service Test – 192 Ice Maker State Test
• Display shows dr if left fresh food door switch is in the door open position.
• Display shows OFF if ice maker power switch is in the off position and door closed.
• Display shows On if the ice maker power switch is in the on position and the door closed and heater is off.
• Display shows OnH if icemaker power switch is in the on position and harvest heater is on and door closed.
Service Test – 193 Ice Maker Relay
• Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP/ + Keypad or Refrigerator DOWN /- Keypad to toggle the ice maker relay On and OFF.
NOTE: Service tests 201-213 modifies factory settings to suit customers needs.
Service Test – 201 Mullion Heater Override
• Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP /+ Keypad or Refrigerator DOWN /- Keypad to change Mullion Heater from cycling on with
compressor (OFF position) to 100% operation (On Position).
NOTE: If present, the Humidity Control Button toggles between the selected Mullion Heater Function and 0% operation.
Service Test – 202 Default Defrost Operation
• Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP /+ Keypad or Refrigerator DOWN /- Keypad to change Defrost Operation from normal adaptive defrost
(Off position) to minimum time between defrosts (On position).
Service Test – 203 Show Temperature Set points
• Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP /+ Keypad or Refrigerator DOWN /- Keypad to change from showing actual temperature (Off position)
to show temperature set points only (On position).
Service Test – 211 Fresh Food Temperature Adjustment
• Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP /+ Keypad or Refrigerator DOWN /- Keypad to change calibration of Fresh Food Temperature plus or
minus in 1°F increments up to 6°F.
NOTE: Temperature will read in Fahrenheit regardless of what current temperature scale is being used.
Service Test – 212 Freezer Temperature Adjustment
• Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP /+ Keypad or Refrigerator DOWN /- Keypad to change calibration of Freezer Temperature plus or
minus 1°F in increments up to 6°F.
NOTE: Temperature will read in Fahrenheit regardless of what current temperature scale is being used.
Service Test – 213 Ice Compartment Temperature Adjustment
• Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP /+ Keypad or Refrigerator DOWN /- Keypad to change calibration of Ice Compartment Temperature
plus or minus 1°F in increments up to + 0 / + 8°F.
NOTE: Temperature will read in Fahrenheit regardless of what current temperature scale is being used.
Service Test – 221 Reset Default Settings
• Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP /+ Keypad or Refrigerator DOWN /- Keypad to reset to factory default settings (dEF).
Service Test – 231 Water Filter Usage
• Display shows the percent water filter consumption since water filter was reset. 100% indicates the filter should be replaced.
Service Test – 232 Water Filter Days In Use
• Display shows the number of days since the water filter was reset.
Service Test – 241 Software Revision Main Control Board
• Display shows the Software revision of the Main Control Board.
Service Test – 244 Software Revision Display Board
• Display shows the Software revision of the Display Board.
NOTE: Service tests 3XX and above are Reserved for Engineering Use Only.

Here is the parts break down. http://lookup.appliancevideo.com/lookup/95466/581929
Number 16 on the diagram is a thermal cut off. Looks like this will be the most likely one that is bad. This one looks like it is just behind the front panel, under the burners.
Also, #37 and 23 on this diagram- http://lookup.appliancevideo.com/lookup/95466/1542074/37#37 . I think this one would just cut off power to heat elements for the oven and not the clock. This one is on the rear of the unit.

I think I have found a tech sheet on a unit that is very similar if not the same. I have attached it. I am not finding a damper on the this tech sheet. I have worked on these units before. I think the damper is going to be controlled by the FF T-stat. Make sure the new T-stat is good. IT could have something to do with the adaptive defrost control, but it does not look like it from the wiring diagram. Reset the unit and check your electrical connections and wires.

First thing I would check is the thermal cut off. IF the cut of is good then lets check for power. The appliance manager sends power to the clock/touch panel. We need to check to see if we are getting power to the appliance manager board. There is a test connector which has a r/w and a g wire that come off of the App. manager board we can test at. This might even come to the back panel somewhere where you can test at with out taking it apart. It will have a harness that snaps into the panel possibly. Check for 120V. p5-1 and p5-3 are the test points on the board for this connection. I have attached the tech sheet for you. Let me know what you find