All Answers

I recommend to start by replacing the thermo fuse and thermostat on this unit if you have 220 volts into the terminal block of the dryer . See parts and video links below.

You could have a defrost timer , defrost thermostat or defrost heat . I recommend starting off with replacing the defrost time on this unit. See parts and video links below.

Hi. I have attached the tech sheet on this dryer for you.

Here is the tech sheet on this unit for you. ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/Anderson/240389639.pdf . It shows how to cycle the ice maker. You can also just grab and pull on the racks of the ice maker, but it is not recommended in fear of breaking or damaging the ice maker. A lot of things can cause it not to make ice. A bad inlet valve or bad ice maker. First make sure temperature is cold enough in the freezer to make ice. Then cycle the ice maker and see if it goes through a cycle and fills with water. If no water check for ice in the fill tube, poor water pressure or a faulty inlet valve. If it gets water and still not producing ice you more than likely have a faulty ice maker.

Yes. You are right. That’s is going to be a bad touch panel. You will need to replace the control panel. P# wp8534840.

Hi. Which hose is it leaking from? Here is a link for the parts diagram. http://lookup.appliancevideo.com/lookup/213694/1452152 Are you referring to number 5 on diagram? The ventilation hose? I do believe the clean washer cycle does fill up with more water than a wash cycle, but it still should not be leaking out. Is there too many suds in the unit ? Does this hose have a crack or a bad seal? Le me know. Thanks.

Usually this means a bad control board. Could also be a shorted element or wire somewhere in the unit. Check for anything shorted. If you find nothing I would replace the control.

SO on this we use process of elimination. You have tested the heater and thermostat, the only thing left is the control. We know it still is not defrosting because if freezes back up.

OK. SO the unit was not self defrosting? You had heavy frost on the coils that was blocking air flow? IF so, I would replace the timer. When you manually advanced the timer it did go into defrost and the heater turned on, so you know everything else in defrost is working. The timer may be getting stuck. Also, make sure the drain tube under the evap is not clogged created ice to back up. This blocks air flow as well.

Hi. I have attached the tech sheet for you on your unit. There are several F1 error codes. There should be a dash and another number with the “F1”. So, it should look like F1-7. What is your full error code. Look on page 8 of the tech sheet for the list of error codes. Sounds like the control board was not the issue. With the panel getting to hot, it sounds like the cooling fan may not be running, or air flow is blocked preventing air circulation to keep the controls from overheating. This will cause and error code. Let me know if that fan is running and what error code you are getting.

I have had two in 3 months and both showed good defrost t-stats. Replaced t-stats on both and that took care of the defrost problem. You also must check that defrost heater is good. This is the W10219463 control, one which must be sent in to be rebuilt. It controls the adaptive defrost cycling.

I have provided two links on the outer door assembly for your model. Let us know if this helps.

Hi. Yes this unit does have a capacitor. It is p# WH12X10212. It is located under the front panel attached to the cabinet on the right side. I have the parts break down attached for you to take a look at. The capacitor is number 217 on the diagram. This is most likely your culprit causing the unit to not spin.

It should have an even frost pattern across the the whole evaporator. If you have a thermostat or lazor thermometer the coil temperature should be -15 degrees to -20 degrees. If it is not that temperature on the top an bottom of the coil you have a sealed system leak. 95% chance its in the evaporator. In that case you would need to replace the evaporator. I have attached a video link for a evaporator replacement and we have several more on our website.

Are you are positive the compressor is running, these compressors are very quiet. If the compressor is definitely running the next step would be to remove the evaporator cover to examine the frost pattern on the evaporator. There is a link below to click to show you the freezer cover assembly and how it comes off. Once you remove the cover you should have a light even frost pattern across the evaporator . If you have frost on the cover and heavy frost build up on the evaporator this is telling us you have a part of your defrost system defective. So hear is an overview once you get the evaporator cover off.
1) Heavy frost build up – Part of defrost system is defective -email me for next step.
2) While unit is running and no frost on coil – This means a leak in system or weak suction valve in compressor.
3) Half the coil frosted and half not – low refrigerant charge leak in system most likely evaporator.

If your problem is number ( 1) it is cost effective to repair . If its 2-3 it is very expensive to replace the evaporator or compressor. Let me know what you find.

Hello
If you have 120 volts at the compressor you have two possibilities.
1) You have a defective compressor starting components at the compressor. The components you will need are a starter relay and run capacitor. I have provided part numbers and links below for both parts.
2) You have a compressor that is tied up or locked up and that is called ( LRA ) locked rotor Amprege. If you have an meter to check amprege the average running amprege functioning properly should be .4 to .7 amps. If your amprege is 1.0 or higher you have a defective compressor. If you do not have a amp probe you can try the relay and run capacitor. They are under $60.00 for both parts.
Thanks Matt Ace technician

Hi. I have attached the tech sheet oh this unit for you. Did the unit spin while you were there? If the unit is still not draining, check to see if you can hear that drain pump running or humming. If so and still no drain you have a clog or a bad drain pump. I have gone out on units not draining before and found it would drain for me, but under a heavy load it would not. The impellers inside the pumps can get sloppy and loose and will cause this to happen.

I am not able to find any information on this unit for you. I have spent a good amount of time searching through all of my resources and found nothing. Danby is very hard to get information on. I did find the part number for the tub, but no information out there on that either. Sorry we could not assist you on this one.

I am not able to find any information on this unit for you. I have spent a good amount of time searching through all of my resources and found nothing. Danby is very hard to get information on. I did find the part number for the tub, but no information out there on that either. Sorry we could not assist you on this one.

This is the finger-ice maker unit, a model which was made for about 2 years. It was so problematic, that Electrolux went with a flex tray design later. The gurgling and hissing noises are the sounds of refrigerant moving thru the ice maker evaporator. The unit was produced between 2008 and 2010, most likely.look at the fingers on the evaporator see if they are crushed on the tips, Frigidaire has been replacing the refrigerator. Clicking is also commonly caused by the gear box and motor on this unit all the gears are plastic an I normally replace both at the time of service. There is also a fan that could be hitting ice at the ice box evaporator if the gear box is good. To check it put the unit into a motor cycle from service mode with ice bin out. BIN MUST BE REMOVED PRIOR OR DAMAGE WILL RESULT if the gear box or motor is damaged it will drop and not complete the move to home.See ice maker videos. https://www.appliancevideo.com/?cat=&s=frigidare+ice+maker&post_type%5B%5D=post&post_type%5B%5D=premiumvideos&post_type%5B%5D=fromthefield&post_type%5B%5D=embdvideo