All Answers

I recommend replacing the gas coils on this unit. It is the most common no heat issue for this model. See links below.

Check your heater for continuity , if it does not have continuity I recommend replacing the heating element on this unit. See links below.

I recommend replacing the drain pump on this unit. See links below

The plastic pieces and rubber pieces are part of the transmission drive coupling. I recommend replacing the drive coupler on this unit. See links below.

I recommend installing a new defrost heater on this unit. It is very common issue . It is also advisable to do a continuity test before replacing the heater. If you have continuity replace the Defrost timer and defrost thermostat. Unit must be turned off and left to defrost with the doors open for 24 hours before use.See links below.

I would start by checking voltage to the bake igniter. If you have 115 volts I recommend replacing the bake ignitor on this unit. See links below.

With this model , I recommend replacing the mode shifter on this unit. See links below.

We have had many issues with the control board causing this issue. I recommend replacing the main control board on this unit. See links below.

Thye most common issue on this unit is the bearing kit.. See links below.

Sure seems as though the board is not calling for heat although the thermistor measures within tolerance. I would next see if I could determine if the connector plug for the thermistor might have a lose pin connection. I’ve had a couple back out because they were un-seated and also have had a couple where the connection within the plug was just weak enough not to make the pin. When tested with a meter, the force of the probe against the connector makes the connection.I have had a few of these where the motor failed and caused a similar symptom. Another possibility is the centrifugal switch on the motor failing and not the motor itself. Do not rule out the centrifugal switch.

8e error code in the tech sheet says – Check MEMS PCB ,Main PCB & Wire-harness. The MEMS sensor is the vibration sensor, p# DC93-00376D. I have seen and issue with the lower wire harness that usually causes this error code, but it could be the board or sensor as well. The 2 wire harnesses on the unit are DC93-00473A, and DC93-00150C. I’m not sure which one is the lower harness from the parts break down. Searching both, I found no indication anywhere of which one is the lower. They are number 11-7 and 16 on the diagram.

I found some great information on this for you. First one is the full job aid on this ice system and the second is an issue that they may have and testing info. Should be everything you could ask for on this and more!

Yes, it could be something like a broken wire.I did not see a separate start relay anywhere on this one. I still think the most likely part would be the motor. The motor has a start and a run winding. The start winding is working to start it as long as you hold the button and then when you let go it stops because the run winding may be damaged. Like I said before I have never seen or heard of a bad timer causing this to happen, but anything is possible. This unit is a basic dryer and does not have a informative service manual. I have done some digging and found a tech sheet that would be similar to this unit. This would be the sheet that is in the control panel and the only technical information that would be available on this unit.

Hello the LG. LE means that your washer control thinks that the motor is struggling to turn the tub. Now generally this is a false error and isn’t the case at all. But just to make sure, open the door and spin the tub by hand to make sure it spins smoothly. If so, then that means you likely have a common problem where the hall sensor (also known as the RPS sensor) attached to the motor has failed and will need to be replaced because it’s not measuring the motor’s strain properly. If you pull the washer out and unplug the washer, you can remove the screws going into the back access panel and set the access panel off to the side. Remove the bolts holding the rotor and motor onto the tub which are located directly in the middle on the back of the tub. There is a plastic sensor clipped onto the back side of the motor with a few small wires going to it. This is your RPS sensor you need to replace. Attached is a link to the Sensor and a how to replace video… Once again, your model number did not come up when I plugged it in, so I am just going off of my past experience and a very general explanation. If you could provide a valid model that would be helpful…

Have you made sure there is 115 volts to the ice maker plug ? Also have you checked the freezer temperature to make sure it is -1 degrees to +7 degrees ? The ice maker will not harvest if its above +8 degrees due to a thermostat in the ice maker. As far as the auger motor they are hard to turn by hand , is it not functioning when energized ? If not do you have 115 volts to the auger motor ?

Hi. I have attached a service manual on a similar unit. I couldn’t find one for your exact unit. At this point I think you have a low voltage issue since you cant get any heat on either setting. This means it could be the control board, door switches, or Bi metal thermostats. I would take an amp draw while running a cycle to see how many amps you are getting. The manual has diagnostic flow charts on the last pages that will be helpful to you.

There were changes made to the software that allowed a reversed hose connection to function anyway. It would recognize the obvious discrepancy and correct in internally. I’d say the EEPROM has problems doing its job at this point, especially since you have verified that the NTC is reading proper resistance and all else appears normal. Control board is next. If you can, check to ensure the power supply to the thermistor is correct. Even though the thermistor reads OK, if there is low voltage to the thermistor, it will make it read funny. My guess is you will find the control board defective.

Here is a link for their online lookup. I could not find your model but it has all the contact info if you click on the word Broan. Also Marcone is a Broan parts distributor. If it is the slider Rheostat that I think it is, there is a light switch and pilot light that comes in that assembly. Hope this helps .

http://parts.broan-nutone.com/

Ph: 1-800-548-0790

Is this the part number you used? 00442548
That’s the circulation motor and pump assembly.
I found no info about removing any wires from the circuit.
Check out this link for diagram copy and paste in browser — file:///C:/Users/matt/Pictures/wireing.png

Looks like that is the model number you attached with this question. It is the one provided to me. I looked up the new model number. I do not see a start relay like some units have or anything else that would cause that. You have eliminated the door switch, belt switch. Have you or are you able to by pass the start switch/button? You could be loosing a neutral some where. broken wire. The motors run winding could be bad as well. I have seen bad belt switches have this symptom, but you have already by passed it.