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What do they mean by it goes on by it self from time to time? Does it just heat up on its own in side the oven with nothing on the display to indicate the oven is on? Or does the control board indicate that it has been turned on with no one actually pressing the button? There could be a shorted wire somewhere, but more than likely a faulty control board.

Here you go. This gas conversion sheet should be what you are looking for. Attached is the link.

I have seen bad belts switches on these units cause this symptom. I would check the belt switch first. Here are some videos that show this repair.

You will need to remove the cover on the head of the ice maker. Then put a jumper wire from T to H. The ice maker will start to rotate. after about 15 seconds you will hear a click. Removed the jumper wire. The ice maker will run through a cycle. I have attached a tech sheet for the ice maker for you to take a look at. Also, I have attached a repair video that shows how to cycle the ice maker. This portion of the video starts at about 7mins in.

My first thought is a pump failing to discharge. Impeller issues on these pumps, a well a a jammed drain valve at the pump could cause the symptoms. This has been a source of fault codes stemming from a simple rubber flapper that has worn or broken loose. A closer inspection of the drain pump and anti-siphon flap might solve the issue.How far from the units does the plumbing come together? If they both have a 1/2 inch drain line and they come together and go into at least a 3/4 or 1 inch drain line the rest of the way, I would not worry about them backing up. I would install an air gap on each drain line from each dishwasher then as they drain away from the air gap, tie them together with the larger line that goes down to the trap. That should eliminate your siphoning problem.

The fuse blows due to excessive amperage from the heater circuit. On many models, ordering the heater also includes a control. The new thermal fuse comes with heavier wiring which should be installed as a kit. Other factors which can cause the fuse to open include low water supply (clogged valve, poor circulation thru the wash system, etc.)

We had the exact problem on a unit several moths ago , turned out to be dispenser control board part# 5304426010. That should rectify your issue.

I recommend replacing the drum bearing kit on this unit. It is very common problem for a squealing issue. See links below.

Hi. I am not able to pull up this model number anywhere. Please make sure this is the correct model number. Hair product is harder to get information on. I’m coming up with nothing on this. But I can still help you diagnose this I think. The compressor will not start correct? Fans all working? If yes check to see if you have proper power to the inverter board. If so Then you have a bad inverter. IF your not getting proper power to the inverter, then check your wiring and main control that feeds power to the inverter. I have never seen fuses on refrigerators unless there are incorporated on the control boards.

Hi. First I would reset the unit by unplugging it for 15 mins. See if this makes a difference. Check the pressure hose for holes and clogs. Make sure it is connected to the control board and the tub. If the hose checks good and reset does not work you will most likely need the control board(which has the pressure switch in it). p#W10189966. I have attached the tech sheet on this unit for you as well. Enter diagnostic mode and see what error codes you have. This will help to better diagnose it. You can also run the auto test cycle in the diagnostics.

One trick we use in the field to eliminate other DC shorts is to temporarily disengage the J2 connector and see if a fan motor might be dragging the voltage down to the display or in some cases, the compressor. The door switches must also work properly for the display to illuminate. Let us know if this helps diagnose

I would think a control failure is about all that’s causing it at this point. The pressure switch works thru harmonic feedback, the receptors are in the control. Let us know how this works out for you.

Check the sink backing up may have something to do with it, especially since the drain hose is not elevated. This can cause the water to not all drain out and water from the sink could be back filling into the dishwasher. Have you seen any water sitting in the bottom? Tracing a leak can be hard. On this unit you have to pull it out 80% of the cabinet and run it while you look in from the back or sides to see where the water is coming from. I would start by elevating the drain hose and fixing the sink drain and go from there. I have attached the tech sheet so you can check those error codes.Send us any error codes you may have.

Take a look at number 38 and 40 on the diagram. This is the hinge and hinge cover. Take the cover off and there will be some screws( usually 3). You can usually loosen this to manipulate the door and tighten them. The model number you gave me was not valid. The closet I found was FPHB2899PF3( which I think is the correct one for your unit) Also, take a look at 35 in the diagram. This is the lower hinge, which I do not see anything that can be adjusted on the lower from teh diagram. http://lookup.appliancevideo.com/lookup/225226/1528974/40A#40A

Hi. It does not look like this unit has any adjustments for the french doors. One thing you can do is loosen the screws at the top hinge of the door you want to adjust. Then move the door and hold it in the position you want it. Now tighten the screws. You can also level the unit to align the doors. Adjust the front legs and it will adjust the doors for you. It make take some figuring out as to which leg and which direction you need to go, to make the door go the way you want it to go, but I have done it many times and it works.

I don’t see where we talked about the temp of the water in the question from last week. Some washers will require a certain temp of water even though it is set to cold wash. I do not see the thermistor on this unit but there may be one. The error code from what I recall does not talk about a water temp either. You can make sure they are only using cold washes, or hook up a inlet hose splitter so that you can have cold water going to both the hot and cold at the back of the washer. Then it will fill if they select a warm or hot wash. If you still get an error there is not much you can do. You can’t bypass the thermistor or disconnect it or you will still get an error code. The control is programmed to read the thermistor so it would still give you trouble anyway you try to get around it.

Hi. First thing to check is if they have water going to the unit. Usually if both ice and water have stopped at the same time there is a water flow issue. See if they recently replaced a water filter and make sure they installed it properly. This could cause water issues for both water and ice. When you press is on the water paddle, listen for the inlet valve to hum. You may have to put your ear against the cabinet to hear it while you press the paddle. This will tell you if your dispenser switches/board are working and if the valve is getting power, and go from there. Let me know what you come up with after looking at these things first.

Hello
The 3 in 1 combination relay, capacitor and overload, will start the compressor against virtually ALL unbalanced pressures when used on high starting motors unless you have a locked up compressor. The most common fits residential refrigerators with 1/4 & 1/3 HP compressors. They make multiple sizes that are rated on the the package of each 3 in 1. I have provided a link below that shows you all of the products and sizes. Hope this helps Matt Ace technician.
http://www.supco.com/images/2%20Refrigeration%20Section.pdf

Hello
We have many videos on our site for compressor diagnostics. I suggest you watch the videos we sent to you yesterday. Another option is Freds Appliance University has a one week course one sealed system compressors. Here is the link. https://fredsappliance.com/academy/single-week-courses/refrigerator-training/ . As far as books go, you are much better off with hands on or videos. Hope this helps , thanks Matt Ace technician

Compressors are build tough to withstand high temperatures. They have a thermal protector that will turn the compressor off before it over heats. So I would not be concerned with any damage to the compressor if it’s still running. They do get very hot. If it’s running non stop because it can not cool properly, if the condenser coils are dirty or the condenser fan motor is not running are all things that will cause the compressor to be very hot.