All Answers

Ok. The F35 error is an error code for the pressure switch. You have already checked that the pressure hose is not clogged by blowing through it. Make sure there are no holes in pressure tube. Make sure the customer is using HE detergent and the washing machine is not getting too many suds in it. They had some sort of issue with the Pressure sensor on these units. This is most likely your issue. First check the connections. It could also by an issue with the control board(CCU). Not a real good way to find out which is bad, but more than likely it is the sensor. I found some info on getting the correct part. …………
There are 2 different parts that is available – one is W10415587-must call wpl w/ model to get correct part # USE W10415587 for WFW9700VW00, WFW9700VA00, MHWE500VW00, MHWE500VP00,

It looks like according to this you will need p#W10415587 . Attached is a repair video.

I that model number does not appear to be valid. We may not need it, but if you could provide the correct model number i could help us out. If they are saying the fans are running and both sides are not cooling, then your cold control should be working. You could have a defrost issue, which could be the timer, defrost thermostat, or heater, the compressor may not be running. Check for power to the compressor and if there is power you may have a bad compressor or a bad overload/relay. IF compressor and fans are running, air flow is good, and there is not a defrost issue, then you could have a refrigerant leak.

Hello
There are a few things that can cause a compressor to run hot, refrigerator compressors actually require heat to help the refrigerator cool. As the compressor pressurizes gaseous refrigerant, the compressor’s temperature increases. The increased temperature actually helps the refrigerant to move into the condenser where it turns to liquid and works to cool the refrigerator. So with that being said you need to look for the common causes of a compressor running too hot. Her are the most common.
1) A dirty condenser that restricts air flow across the compressor to keep it running cool.
2) A locked up or tied up condenser fan motor that blows air across the condenser and compressor to keep it cool.
3) High indoor ambient air temperature conditions over 90 degrees.
4) On self defrosting freezers, they must be defrosted otherwise the temperature control cannot sense the coil temperature to shut the compressor down. Therefore causing it to run hot because its running all the time.
5) On automatic defrost systems, you could have a part of the defrost system defective causing a frost build up and then the temperature control cannot sense the coil temperature to shut the compressor down.

Before you condem a compressor. I suggest to check the compressor name plate amprege before condeming any compressor, on the model number name plate It will have running amprege and ( LRA ) locked rotor amprege. If you amprege is under the normal running amprege you do not have a bad compressor. If it at the locked rotor amprege that means bad starting components or locked up compressor that needs to be replaced.
Hope the helps Matt Ace Technician See link to compressor videos.https://www.appliancevideo.com/?cat=&s=compressor+&post_type%5B%5D=post&post_type%5B%5D=premiumvideos&post_type%5B%5D=fromthefield&post_type%5B%5D=embdvideo

Hi. I want to say it is most likely fine since it was working prior to the door being left open. The frost is a sign of the Door being left open or possibly a defrost issue. Both of which would have been fixed by defrosting it. Did they unplug the unit and let it defrost with the doors open for 24 hours? The frost would block air circulation. We know that it was running since you heard the fan. So if there really is an issue with the unit it could be poor air flow due to a defrost system failure, compressor not running, or refrigerant leak.

Hi. You could have a bad inlet valve, ice maker, or clogged line/fill tube. The fill tubes are common to get clogged with ice. Check this first. Find the inlet valve for the ice maker and put your meter leads on it with the wires still hooked up. Then run the ice maker through a test cycles and monitor the voltage on your meter. IT should read 0V until it reaches near the end of the cycle where it will call for water. This lasts about 7 seconds. This will tell you if the ice maker is sending voltage to the inlet valve. IF so and there is not a clog, or poor water pressure you have a bad inlet valve. IF no voltage from ice maker then you have a bad ice maker. You could also take the water line out of the ice maker inlet valve and place something under it to collect the water. Run it through a test cycle and see if you get any water coming out of the valve. Typically if you listen closely or are near the valve you can hear it turn on when it gets energized by the ice maker. It will hum if voltage is present.

Hi. I think I know what you are talking about with the ice build up. I have seen this many times on these units. If you are looking into the freezer the ball of ice is at the top right corner. The ice builds up around the copper suction tube. I have never found what causes this to happen. Could be a humidity or moisture issue and it builds up there for some reason. I have cleared the ice before and not cleared it before and it made no difference either way. Never causes any harm that I have found. Something to do with these units in particular. Could be from the frozen drain and now it will not come back again. I would not be concerned with it.

I recommend replacing the drain tube kit on this unit. See links below.

Hello
We are factory authorized preferred service providers for Whirlpool. We have spent over an hour trying to find a cross reference part on this model. We have also made phone calls to Whirlpool and they cannot find one either. We have come up empty on this cross referenced evaporator / heat exchanger. If you find there is one engineered to work as a replacement can you please add it to this post for future reference. Matt Ace Appliance service technician

HI. I’m thinking the sink backing up may have something to do with it, especially since the drain hose is not elevated. This can cause the water to not all drain out and water from the sink could be back filling into the dishwasher. Have you seen any water sitting in the bottom? Tracing a leak can be hard. On this unit you almost have to pull it out and run it while you look in from the back or sides to see where the water is coming from. I would start by elevating the drain hose and fixing the sink drain and go from there. I have attached the tech sheet so you can check those error codes.

Hi. Did you install a valve when you tapped the system? If so the best thing to do would be to put your gauges on it to see what your pressures are. We see a lot of refrigerant leaks on these units. How is the frost pattern on the evap? If it is heavy or a ball of ice where the line fist comes into the evap and no frost on the rest of it, that would be a sign that it is low on charge. .08-2.0 amp draw is normal for a compressor. The older the unit the higher the amp draw could be. It could have a faulty compressor or a restriction as well. Restriction is not likely. To find out any of the sealed system problems for certain you will need to check pressure with gauges. One test you can do to check for a leak is unplug the unit while the compressor is running and plug it right back in quickly. If the compressor turns right back on and does not trip on its thermal protector then it is most likely low on charge.

HI. It all depends on what we are looking for as to where we find it. Kenmore is more difficult to find service information on since they use other manufactures to make there product and do not make anything themselves.
If a key is stuck for more than 30 seconds, the display will alternate between “E” and “7”.
I have attached the manual on this unit for you. It may not be for your exact model but it looks like it could be or is very similar. It could be reading High temp for a number of reasons. The most common thing I see on this unit is a clogged drain tube. This will cause ice to build up on the bottom and block the return air vent of the back panel which causes poor air circulation. Also have seen refrigerant leaks and defrost system failure on this unit as well. Usually the defrost thermostat or control board.

ABQ73004304 is the inverter board that powers your compressor. Make sure you are getting power to this board from the main control board. If not replace the main board.

Is everything else running? If you haven’t tried it already unplugged the refrigerator for 15 minutes and plug it back in to reset the control board. If this does not work you more than likely have a bad control board. The control board sends power to the compressor. If you have power going to the control board and no power going out of the control board to the compressor it is faulty.

Sounds like you have a bad motor. This is a typical symptom of a motor that goes bad. Just make sure that nothing is causing the drum to not turn freely or smoothly. Which it doesn’t sound like it since it did run through a cycle after you put the belt on. Typically when a dryer motor starts to fail it will start and run until it heats up and then it will shut off mid-cycle. Once it cools down it will start up again and run until it heats up again.

Here is what the tech sheet says about your error codes.
4E -Your washer has tried to fill but was unsuccessful.Make sure the water faucets are open all the way.
Check for bent hoses.
Check the inlet screens on the hoses. If you are using a Flood Safety Device, please remove the device and connect the water hoses directly to the unit.Check if the hot water supply hose is connected.You must connect the hot water supply hose because hot water is supplied by the Auto Temperature Control (A.T.C.) function if the temperature of the cold water is lower than 59°F.When washer displays “4E”, washer do draining for 3 minutes. At this time, Power button is invalid

I would check that it is getting both hot and cold. Then I would check the pressure switch and hose. The pressure switch and hose is how it determines the amount of water it is getting. This would cause the error code if one of them are damaged.

I have attached a video as well that will help you.

4E error is a Water Supply Error. To solve, please check the following:

1. Check if the water tap connected to the washing machine is open to full pressure .
   1. Check if there are no kinks or bent hose in the water line connected to the washing machine.
   2. Check if the water inlet hose mesh filter is not blocked with lime and calcium deposits.
      Note: You may need to clean the water hose mesh filter twice a year.

Cleaning the water hose mesh filter:
1.Turn off the water source that supplies water to the washing machine.
2. Unscrew the hose from the back of the washing machine.
3. With a pair of pliers, gently pull out the mesh filter from the end of the hose and then rinse it under.
4. Water until clean. also clean the inside and outside of the threaded connecter.
5. Push back the filter into its correct place.
6. Screw the hose back to the washing machine.

Hope this helps
Matt Ace technician

Can you send us the serial number on this Sub-Zero model. I can get you more information if you can provide it. Matt Ace technician

Hi. I am not able to locate the tech sheet at this time. I have seen water valves on other units with sensors before. What they do is monitor the water through the valve for a precise ice maker fill. Also, if the dispenser can fill by volume, like if you can set it to fill a certain number of ounces. This is what the sensor would be for as far as I know. So it would not mater what kind of water pressure the unit gets, it will still fill with the same amount of water regardless.

I’m glad you did that test. Yes, if that motor will not go, but did when you started turning it you have a bad motor. Here is a video on the motor replacement.

How are the temperatures in the unit? Is it always cold enough for ice production? Normal temperature for a freezer is 0 to 5 degrees. How is the water pressure, Is the ice maker getting enough water? If the temperature and water pressure and good there could be a problem with the ice maker, sensor or control board. Let me know how things check out and we can work from there to solve the problem.