All Answers

I have attached the Tech Sheet for this Microwave in the link below. I do not see the F6E8 error code listed on the Tech Sheet. Please double check the error code and and refer to the Tech Sheet which includes listed error codes.

If the buttons are not responding to the buttons you are pressing to set the temperature, then the board will need replaced. Check for power down to the igniter when you set it to bake. If you have proper power then you have a bad igniter.

I have see many times RPS sensor or a broke wire. Could be red wire or yellow wire. Do you know how to put the unit into a quick 5 min. diagnostic? This will run it through all the components etc. See video links on Whirlpool washer not spinning. https://www.appliancevideo.com/?cat=&s=whirlpool+washer+not+spinning&post_type%5B%5D=post&post_type%5B%5D=premiumvideos&post_type%5B%5D=fromthefield&post_type%5B%5D=embdvideo

DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE
Before servicing, check the following:
 Make sure there is power at the wall outlet.
 Has a household fuse blown or circuit breaker tripped? Was a regular fuse used? Inform customer that a time-delay fuse is required.
 Are both hot and cold water faucets open and water supply hoses unobstructed?
 All tests/checks should be made with a VOM (volt-ohm-milliammeter) or DVM (digital-voltmeter) having a sensitivity of 20,000 Ω per volt DC or greater.
 Resistance checks must be made with washer unplugged or power disconnected.
 IMPORTANT: Avoid using large
diameter probes when checking harness connectors as the probes may damage
the connectors upon insertion.
 Check all harnesses and connections before replacing components. Look for connectors
not fully seated, broken or loose wires and
terminals, or wires not pressed into connectors far enough to engage metal barbs.
 A potential cause of a control not functioning is corrosion or contamination on connections. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity across suspected connections.
DIAGNOSTIC LED – MAIN CONTROL
A troubleshooting tool has been implemented onto the main control board—a diagnostic LED.
LED ON – The Control is detecting correct incoming line voltage and the processor is functioning.
LED OFF – Control malfunction. Perform TEST #1:
Main Control, page 12, to verify main control
functionality.
SERVICE DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODES
These tests allow factory or service personnel to test and verify all inputs to the main control board. You may want to do a quick and overall checkup of the washer with these tests before going to specific troubleshooting tests.
LED Location
to access fault/error codes, perform steps 1 and 2 of Activating the Service Diagnostic Test Modes. Turn the cycle selector knob until the status LEDs correspond as follows:
 “Done” LED On
Press the START button to enter Fault Code Display Mode. The status LEDs flash on and off.
1. To view last 4 fault codes:
 Turn cycle selector knob clockwise to view fault codes in the order of most recent to oldest. (Refer to Fault/Error Code charts on pages 6 & 7.)
NOTE: A fault/error code will be removed from memory if it does not reoccur after 10 consecutive wash cycles.
2. To clear fault codes:
 Turn cycle selector knob until the status LEDs
flash ON and OFF (see figure 2, page 2).
 Press and hold the START button
for 3 seconds to clear all fault codes
and exit Fault Code Display Mode.
Fault/Error Code Display Method
Fault/error codes are displayed by alternating the state of the Status LEDs in one second intervals. All fault/error codes have an F# and an E#. The F# indicates the suspect System/Category and the E# indicates the suspect Component system.
If the Fill or Sensing LED is ON, the Fault
Number is represented; if OFF, the Error Number is represented (see example below). The remaining LEDs (Wash, Rinse, Spin, and Done) represent the fault and error code in binary. (See Fault/Error Code Charts on pages 6 & 7 for more information.) = ON.
LED names may vary between makes and models.
3. There are several accessible Diagnostic Test Modes shown in the chart below. To select the desired Mode of Operation, turn the cycle selector knob until the status LEDs match the mode desired to enter.
4. Press the START button to enter desired mode of operation.
Refer to the following pages for detailed information on each mode of operation:
 FAULT CODE DISPLAY MODE: Page 3
 AUTOMATIC TEST MODE: Page 4
 MANUAL TEST MODE: Page 4
 CALIBRATION MODE: Page 4
 SALES DEMO MODE: NOT FOR SERVICE USE*
 UI TEST MODE: Page 4
 SW VERSION DISPLAY MODE: Page 5
 FACTORY DIAGNOSTICS: If accessed, washer must be recalibrated (see Calibration Mode)
 TACHOMETER VERIFICATION MODE: Page 5
*Press and hold the START key for 3 seconds to exit.
Unsuccessful Entry
If entry into diagnostic test mode is unsuccessful, refer to the following indication and action:
Indication: None of the LEDs turn on.
Action: Press START button to enter setting mode.
 If indicators come on, repeat steps 1
through 4 of Activating the Service Diagnostic Modes. NOTE: Rotating the
dial too fast or too slow will affect entry.
 If no indicators come on after pressing the START button, go to TEST #1, page 12.
EXITING THE SERVICE
DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODES
Press and hold the START button for 3 seconds at any time to exit diagnostic test modes.
Washer will exit diagnostic test modes after 5
minutes of inactivity or unplugging the power cord.

Every orifice is listed on the original lookup, part shown as 17 below. All the part numbers are for NAT. You will have to order them separately, but at least the parts list shown their location on the range Because of the consruction of today’s burners, it is not advisable to drill orifices any longer. Most, if not all orifices are tapered on the inside and outside of the hole and a slight offset can disturb the proper flow of gas. Most convertible ranges will have an orifice that is screwed down snug for LP and backed off a few turns for Nat gas. The valve outlet will have a needle in the orifice with a passage through it for LP gas.To ensure, just back out the bake or broil orifice to see if there is a needle insert inside the outlet. Again, tightened down for LP and backed off for Nat gas. See videos on orifice replacements. https://www.appliancevideo.com/?s=orifice&cat=&tag=&post_type%5B%5D=post&post_type%5B%5D=premiumvideos&post_type%5B%5D=fromthefield&post_type%5B%5D=embdvideo

.
W10170507
ORIFICE (8K) (LEFT REAR)
W10347414
ORIFICE (15K) (RF)
W10170508
ORIFICE (9.5K) (LR)
W10170511
ORIFICE (17K) (LEFT REAR)
W10170506
ORIFICE (5K) (RR)

I recommend installing new starting components on this unit. See parts and video links below.

We had a similar issue and the belt switch missed wired and the Control board needed a reset. Look at the schematic to make sure the belt switch is correctly wired.

I recommend replacing the idler pulley on this unit. It is the most common issues along with the drum rollers. See parts and video links below.

Hi. The part number for the freezer air duct i found is WR17X12081. Here are some pictures of it. https://www.google.com/search?q=WR17X12081&safe=active&rlz=1C1CHWA_enUS600US600&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj6r6G37eTLAhXHuB4KHReLAA8Q_AUICCgC&biw=1366&bih=623 . Is this what you are looking for? The model number is incomplete. IF you could provide me with the full model number I can look it up better.

Hi. Have you taken the fill hoses off the back of the unit and put them into a bucket and turned the water back on to make sure you have water pressure to the unit? Are you using flood safe hoses? They can cut off water flow to the washer. I have attached the Service Manual to the unit as well as some repair videos. I would go into the service mode and run the test modes for the water valves to see what is going on with it. IT shows how to do this in the manual.

I recently worked on one of these and it looked to be a special switch but I opened it up and inside was just a regular micro switch. Saved the customer having to pay for a new dispenser assembly. Check out these Samsung videos. https://www.appliancevideo.com/appliances/samsung-rf263teaesr-refrigerator/

Strong possibility that the water tank is FROZE. I always have the customer unplug unit for 48 hrs. with doors open, then plug back in and 70% of the time the unit is fixed. I do this before I go any further. Remember how some GE fridges will freeze the water inside the door going to the dispenser? Disconnect the quick coupling under the door and try to blow up to the dispenser. If you can’t the door liner is frozen.

I usually blast steam down the drain, then follow up with a flexible metal rod (pickup tool), which fits the drain nicely and clears the line. Add a piece of #12 romex wire to the heater and drop an inch of it down the drain opening. The duckbill at the far end may require attention or replacement if it is either clogged or allowing air into the pipe. Let me know of the works.

Yes, the pump housing must be replaced, as it contains the lower seal for the diverter.

Hi. I have attached the tech sheet for you unit. This should should be for your unit. The model number you provided was not valid. Please recheck your model number. In the tech sheet it explains how to enter into service mode and check for any stored error codes. This is the first thing I would do. IS the unit getting enough water? The tech sheet also has the temperature sensor resistance chart. It shows the test points from the control board to test the temp. sensor. Let me know if you need any further assistance.

Did you check for voltage going to valve? Did you ohm out valve solenoid? Did you check overfill float?I would have my meter leads clipped onto the water valve terminals to see if there was indeed power at that third fill increment. This is the main wash cycle, and would be the time the detergent drops. If power is there, bad valve. If not, control issue.Check out this video. https://www.appliancevideo.com/ge-pdw7380n00ss-dishwasher-repair-not-cleaning-well-fill-valve/

We have run into this issue before and it ended up being the ( Fixer fuse ) . Check out the Samsung videos on this link to help if you have any other issues. https://www.appliancevideo.com/appliances/samsung-rf263teaesr-refrigerator/
Matt Ace technician

This is a no fill error. The first thing you will want to do is disconnect the hot and cold fill hoses and run them into a bucket. Make sure your water pressure is good coming out of both hoses. If the water pressure is very low then remove the hoses completely and check to see if the screens are plugged. Also make sure that that hot and cold fill hoses are not reversed (e.g. hot water going into the cold side of the valve). If all this checks ok then you will likely have a bad fill valve. Listen to the valve if the central control board is powering the valve you will hear it humming and you can usually feel a slight vibration when its trying to call for water. Hope this helps.

Thank you for the question. There are a few things that could cause the squeak. With the front panel off of the washing machine, at the bottom of the unit below the motor there are 2 ears( 2 that hang from the motor) and 2 guides( coming off of the bottom of the base) that when the unit fills with water and cloths can rub either on each other or the ears off of the motor mount rub on the base of the unit. This is cause by one of a couple things, you could need to replace the hanging springs(I have only done a few times) or the top rod assembly support is bent down causing the basket to sit lower than it should. I would recommend removing the front panel and filling the unit to observe if the ears below the motor are rubbing on the bottom of the unit.

HI. It looks like the 8E error code has to do with the MEMS sensor.I found this forum online about the 8E error code. This might be for a top load washer however. http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=15432.0 that I thought would help you. The issue has been found to be a problem with the lower wire harness. This is not on your exact model number but could be the same thing. I also found some info about the error code being an issue with the motor or control board. Does the basket on the washer spin freely? You can also check for continuity in the wire harness or check for broken wires or loose connections. Also, check out this link that has a description of the 8E error code as well. http://www.appliancehelponline.com/samsung.html I am unable to locate a tech sheet on this unit at this time.

8E Error is a over current error. Switch off the appliance at the mains then wait 30 seconds. Switch appliance back on again and start a new program. Try this and let us know the results. Matt Ace technician