All Answers

HI. It looks like the 8E error code has to do with the MEMS sensor.I found this forum online about the 8E error code. This might be for a top load washer however. http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=15432.0 that I thought would help you. The issue has been found to be a problem with the lower wire harness. This is not on your exact model number but could be the same thing. I also found some info about the error code being an issue with the motor or control board. Does the basket on the washer spin freely? You can also check for continuity in the wire harness or check for broken wires or loose connections. Also, check out this link that has a description of the 8E error code as well. http://www.appliancehelponline.com/samsung.html I am unable to locate a tech sheet on this unit at this time.

8E Error is a over current error. Switch off the appliance at the mains then wait 30 seconds. Switch appliance back on again and start a new program. Try this and let us know the results. Matt Ace technician

Can you see any hairline cracks in the rotor? I notice the sound dissipates with increased speed on a model I worked on ….I assume the bearings were also replaced? Additionally, was this noise present before the aforementioned repairs were made? Also did you check the drain pump for the noise ? See video https://www.appliancevideo.com/samsung-wf210anwxaa01-washer-diagnostic-repair-will-not-drain-error-code/

Replace the filter housing (head) that is where I would start. Matt Ace technician ..See video links https://www.appliancevideo.com/?cat=&s=electrolux+ice+maker&post_type%5B%5D=post&post_type%5B%5D=premiumvideos&post_type%5B%5D=fromthefield&post_type%5B%5D=embdvideo

If you have proper voltage into the unit, I recommend installing a new main control board on this unit. See links below for Kenmore dishwasher repairs.

If you have power in to the unit and power at the ignitor, I recommend replacing the bake ignitor on this unit. See links below.

I recommend replacing the defrost heater and the high limit thermostat on this unit. See links below.

Is the unit running at all ? If it is not you can bypass the temperature control to see if the unit starts , if it does I recommend installing a new temperature control on this unit. See links below.

If you have incoming power to the control panel , I recommend replacing the main control board on this unit. See links below.

Your welcome! Attached is a video for the blower wheel repair. When the belts slip they create a burning rubber smell on the washer. You could have a drain pump bearing tied up, or the tub is unable to spin causing the belts to slip. Also , could just be worn belts with a heavy load in spin that causes this smell. Attached is a video for the washer belt as well.

I would start by defrosting the coil and doing a continuity test on the defrost heater, if it is open I recommend replacing the defrost heater on this unit. See links below.

WH20X10014 is the part number for the motor on this washer. The capacitor is number 217 on the parts diagram. Here is the link to the parts diagram. http://lookup.appliancevideo.com/lookup/164211/1225215/217#217. The capacitor is located on the frame of the unit. Once you take the front panel off it will be located on the right side attached to the cabinet. I am not having any luck finding the tech sheet for this unit, to be able to tell you where to test the motor at or hook up a test cord. Do you have access to the tech sheet? It is located under the control panel and is usually clipped into the back frame. I have attached GE motor replacement video. A little different from your model, and I attached some capacitor videos on some different units.

On this model is is very common to have a defective thermal kit. I recommend installing a new thermal cutoff kit on this unit. See links below.

It sounds like your blower wheel is not attached to your motor shaft. This will cause the noise at the beginning and end of the cycle. As for the drum not turning and the burning smell. It sounds like the belt is not installed properly. Theses belts go on different than all other belts. There should have been instructions in the package. They go on backwards. The smooth side of the belt goes against the drum. This allows the grove side of the belt to engage the groves on the motor shaft once it’s around the pulley properly.

The float switch is 410,411, and 427 on the part diagram I attached for you. With the unit stuck in drain mode, did it drain all of the water out? This float switch does turn the drain pump on when it recognizes too much water in the tank so you should be going in the right direction. I have attached the service manual on this unit as well to assist you.

I recommend replacing the starting components on this unit. If you have a compressor hermetic you can check the compressor first. See links below.

I recommend checking for 115 volts at the timer . On this model we have found many timer contacts bad not sending voltage down to the heater and in return no heat.. See links below.

If the door switch is stuck in the closed position it will cause the microwave to run constantly . I recommend replacing the door switch on this unit. See links below.

I recommend replacing the drive belt on this unit. See links below.

Check the water inlet valve top see if it has a crack or bad seal , we have replaced many of these due to water leaks. If it is I recommend installing a new inlet valve on this unit. See links below.