All Answers

Hello
This is a self defrosting freezer. It has a defrost system on it. Do you have frost on the back evaporator coil ? Matt Ace technician

Hi. The pressure switch is what controls the amount of water the washer gets. p# W10544357. When I looked up a photo of this part it did not look like a pressure switch to be. When you select the different load sizes on this unit you still get the same amount of water?

Sounds like you could have an issue with the pressure switch or pressure hose witch attaches from the switch to the tub. This hose could have a hole or could be clogged. It doesn’t sound like there is an issue with the hose but check to be sure. Sounds like the switch. Make sure you have good water pressure to the unit on hot and cold.

I would start by checking your igniter, See video links below on how to diagnose and replace .

The F1 code is a heating error. I recommend installing a new heating element on this unit. See links below.

The F21 is a drain error. I recommend installing a new drain pump on this unit. See links below.

I recommend checking to see if there is any debris in the drain pump and garbage disposal if so remove the debris and run the unit again.

If the control panel is completely unresponsive . I recommend installing a new electronic control on this unit. See links below.

I recommend replacing the right rear burner assembly. See links below.

It sounds like you have a defrost issue, you have a defrost timer, defrost thermostat and defrost heater. I recommend starting by replacing the defrost timer on this unit. See links below.

Hi. If you checked that temperature probe and you did not get a reading, it is bad. You should get about 1100 ohms at room temperature (70 deg.). p# 316217002. You will need to replace it, and it should take care of your issue. You could have a secondary issue, but not likely. When you turned power back on with the probe unplugged the unit could not recognize proper temperature and may have locked the door as a safety feature just as it would in a self clean cycle when temps are very high. I would replace that temp. probe since you know its bad and see if all of the issues are resolved. I have attached some repair videos for you as well.

Sounds like you have a bad actuator (p#W10006355) which is very common on this unit. I attached a repair video on this part. The first thing we want to do is to get into diagnostic mode and check the stored error codes. The 2nd video shows this better. Once you do the sequence with the knob, all the lights are flashing. Now turn the knob once so just the done light is lit up. Press start. All the lights flash again. turn the knob once and this is your first error codes. Lights will be flashing to specify the error code. I have attached the tech sheet as well that explains all this and lists the different error codes. Let me know what your error codes are.

Hi. The model number you gave me is not valid. Please re check that model number. It should be located under the lid when you open it. Near where the water enters the tub at. The number you gave me is a part number to a rear panel. I think I know what machine you have and the issue you are having. With the model number I can get you a tech sheet and we can see what error codes you have. Does the unit spin and drain once you select the spin and drain cycle?

HI. Is the control lock button not working? To lock and unlock the control you press and hold the end of cycle signal button for 3 seconds. The control lock light is on the left side of the control to indicate when it is locked and unlocked. Attached is the tech sheet for your unit. You can also try to put it into diagnostic mode, which may not work if the control is locked. What did you do to reset the unit? TO give it a good reset unplug the unit and take a screw driver and place it across the units plug terminals so that the metal makes connection between them. Now press and hold the start button and control on buttons for 10 secs. This will drain any memory or capacitance from the system. If the button is not working to unlock the control then you would need a new user interface. p# 8558756

HI. This is normal operation on this style refrigerator. The door has to be closed for the fan to run. IF you hold the door switch closed the fan with operate. This fan motor does appear to be a 2 speed motor. These are very quiet. An over stuffed freezer or refrigerator will not cause a fan motor to go bad. The food will block the vents, which blocks air flow an causes the unit to not cool properly. I do not know or any literature that explains to customers about over stuffing. A lot of owners manuals may inform about this. Other than that, I’m sure if you searched the internet you could find this information from different sources. The ice and frost that you found is more than likely NOT a result of the unit being over packed or from the fan motor not running. Make sure the drain tube is not clogged and you do not have a defrost issue.

Get as much information from the customer as possible on what is happening. DO they get any error codes when the unit stops? Is it going of balance? Any noises? There are a lot of things that can cause a no spin problem. One of the more common things I see on this unit is the clutch assembly going bad. Water will leak trough the tub seal into the bearings in the clutch and cause this. IT will make noise and you will see water marks underneath. p#DC97-15494C. I am unable to locate the tech sheet at this time. Hopefully there is a tech sheet in the machine for you. You can run diagnostics and find error codes.

HI. Was the evaporator frosted up heavily, like a normal defrost issue or at least the top half of the evap? I have seen issues with the defrost evaporator thermistors on this unit before. p# W10383615. Usually when this goes bad the top half of the evap is heavily frosted and the fan blade is hitting this frost I would check the resistance of this sensor to see if it is your issue. Did you manually defrost the evaporator when you were there originally? Also, check your door seals and center mullion of the french doors to make sure there is no warm air entering unit. This model does not have an updated drain tube kit like on some of the other models that replace the duct bill. I do not like the duck bill design, but once you take care of the frost issue it may resolve your drain issue as well. What type of heat sink did you install?

The whirlpool P-trap kit did work, a little finesse needed to get the trap squeezed onto the drain tube. This was placed onto a GE french door unit made by Samsung, will have to wait a few weeks to see if this fixes problem if it is indeed warm air migrating up drain and causing freezing of drain line. Going back today on the other Samsung that we have had multiple trips on. These are the french door units that have been freezing in drain line routed behind wall of freezer. As you are at the back of unit, it is the drain at the far right side.

I have the same problem with a GE built by Samsung. Talked to GE and this is what I was told:
1. WR51x10141 – probe
2. run 1/4 in tube from top to bottom to make sure hole is clear.
3. put new duck bill part on at the end. Frig and Freezer are the same part number.
Was told that the unit will probably have to be shut off for 2-3 days for the line to actually un freeze. Was told the drain line is very long and runs crazy in the cabinet. Hope this helps. Here are a few video links to help –https://www.appliancevideo.com/?cat=&s=refrigerator+drain+&post_type%5B%5D=post&post_type%5B%5D=premiumvideos&post_type%5B%5D=fromthefield&post_type%5B%5D=embdvideo

Th magnitron and diode will cause a burning smell when they are getting weak. See links below.

I recommend to start by installing a new cycling thermostat on this unit. We have seen this problem many times on this model. Also check your element for continuity See links below.