All Answers

I recommend checking the door switch on this unit. If it has no continuity replace the switch. See links below.

I recommend installing a new drain pump on this unit . see parts and video links below.

If you have 115 volts to the ice maker and water in the ice maker at lest 1/2 inch evenly across the tray. I recommend replacing the ice maker on this unit. See links below.

It is either out of balance from the closes not being properly distributed or you need a new set of suspension rods on this unit. See links below.

The cam kit on this unit is a very common issue , I would examine it and there is a video link if needed. . See links below.

I recommend replacing the drain pump on this unit. See links below.

Go through the diagnostics below this should get you any error codes. Once you get the error code we can further diagnose the issue. https://www.appliancevideo.com/?cat=&s=samsung+refrigerator+&post_type%5B%5D=post&post_type%5B%5D=premiumvideos&post_type%5B%5D=fromthefield&post_type%5B%5D=embdvideo See Samsung refrigerator videos
Matt Ace technician

Self Diagnosis: Press the Pwr Freeze—Pwr
Cool buttons simultaneously for 8-12 seconds
(No sound when both buttons are pressed at
the same time) until the display quits blinking.
Release the buttons and read Fault Codes.
This will also cancel the Fault Mode created by
self-diagnosis at power up.

Forced Mode: Press the Pwr
Freeze– Fridge buttons simultaneously
for 8-12 seconds (No sound
when both buttons are pressed at
the same time) until the display
beeps and goes blank.

Forced Compressor ***Press the Freezer button
one time at the Test Mode
to Force Compressor Run.
Measure fan and compressor
voltage at main PCB.

Sales Mode, No compressor operation
Press Power Freeze & Freezer temp buttons
simultaneously for 3 sec ( you will hear a “Ding
Dong”) to remove or put into Sales Mode. When
in the Sales Mode the Display will show “OF” “OF”
Removing power will not cancel this mode.

DC FAN MOTORS
Brushless DC Fan motors are used to save energy. The fans operate at two speeds,
High – when the ambient temperature is high and Low – when the temperature is low.
Generally, it is operated in the High mode during a day time and in the Low mode at
night. This circuit design is to protect the Main PCB from a failed fan motor.
Fan speed information is read by the Main PCB. If the fan speed exceeds 600 RPM or the speed is too slow or stopped,
the fan drive circuit is disabled, After 10 seconds, the circuit tries again with 3 seconds of DC voltage If the fan continues
this activity for 5 cycles, 10 seconds off 3 seconds on, the fan drive circuit is disabled for 10 minutes.
TO TEST THE FAN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE.
Power off and back on to check the DC voltage to the motor, wait from 10 to 60 seconds for the fan voltage to kick in,
and then check fan voltage, the average reading is 9 VDC. If you get 3 seconds of voltage every 10 seconds for the 5
fan power up cycles, then the Main PCB is good.
NOTE: You may need to put unit in FORCED FREEZE mode to activate the fans/compressor.
If the fan blade is blocked by ice, disconnect the power cord, then defrost and check the motor again.
If the evaporator is ice blocked and thus blocking the air flow, the fan will over RPM and is stopped. Remove ice and
check the motor again. If everything is clear around the fan blade, then the motor would be at fault. Continuous fan errors
will be displayed on the front panel display. PLEASE NOTE: The door switches control the evaporator fan motors.
Have them closed to test the motors. Delay time 10 – 60 seconds.
An intermittent evaporator fan door switch could cause an intermittent no cool condition.

Many times there are underlying problems that can mask themselves as board issues. Most of the time when an electronic controlled machine is acting as you are describing, the root cause of the problem can be an unbalanced load, not filling properly, not pumping or draining properly or anything that can interfere with the proper progression of the cycle. You really have to put the machine through the troubleshooting diagnostic tests to determine if the all of the components are working properly. Matt Ace technician

I have had a few of those where the bucket was frozen in, etc. Lots of fun to steam it loose. Check your ice door for sealing correctly. Also if the door wasn’t closed tight between guests, the ice will melt. Freezer temp too high, all the normal things that go with vacation rentals.
Usually if the ice door is sealing okay. Empty your ice bucket, replace the motor and you should be okay. You should also Light test the flap check seals. Matt Ace technician

Attached is the Service manual for your unit. On page 1-19 it shows how to test the motor. It looks like the start winding will be the blue and yellow wires at the motor. You can check here for voltage here while in a spin cycle to see if your getting power to the motor,, or with power off you can check the winding for resistance. The resistance values are in the manual as well. Let me know if you need any further assistance on this one.

Hi. It sounds like it could be a timer issue. Especially since it would not work on one cycle, but it would on the others. I’m currently trying to locate a tech sheet to give you some test points so we can diagnose this unit. I will get back to you soon.

I recommend replacing the drain pump on this unit. See links below.

It looks like the only possible parts left would be the main control board or the wire harness. I am attaching a service manual on this unit for you. On page 42 you will find all information on trouble shooting the ice maker not working. You can follow the flow chart by testing at the control board to find out what is causing your issue.

HI. A few things can cause the washer to drain slowly. First make sure the drain hose is installed properly, the right size, and open at the end going into a stand pipe. You could have something blocking or clogging the drain cover/filter or pump. The first video I attached shows this. You could also have a bad drain pump which the second video shows how to replace it. It sounds like something is clogging the pump.

Look at the door switch on this unit check for continuity . See links below.

I recommend replacing the cam kit on this unit if the teeth are bad , you will need to inspect the cam assembly. see links below.

I recommend installing a new drain pump on this unit if there is nothing in the pump stuck . See links below.

You need to check to make sure you have ice in the bucket. If you do not I recommend installing a new ice maker on this unit if the unit has 115 volts . See links below.

Do you have wet clothes in the unit? If the unit has an inlet and outlet thermistor it is going to look for a given temperature change. If it does not see that you will get erratic operation. Your venting plays in to this as well. It almost sounds like it’s in the Function Test Mode, that’s about the only time that it lists the Damp light on?
To prove out the code, you will need to get the dryer out far enough to disconnect the vent, then far enough to connect the dryer to a 240 Volt extension cord, I had to make my own. I took a long dryer cord and installed a 240 Volt receptacle to the end. I can now pull out the appliance and connect it up so I can run it out in the open.
If you get it out, run it and everything checks OK, you just proved to the customer that it is the vent system..Another way to check for a venting restriction is to take a piece of ¼” copper tubing and attach it to the end of your manometer hose and puncture the vent hose close to the dryer outlet. If you have more than a 6/10ths of an inch water column, you have a venting restriction. When done testing, put a piece of aluminum duct tape over the hole you made. Is this a pretty reliable way of testing vents? Also look at the burner tube. I have had a dryer that was doing the exact same thing, the flame spreader on the end of burner tube was bent down slightly causing a wide flame. The wide flame would hit the thermal and blow it, actually made it look like vent was completely restricted. Is this the thermal fuse that keeps blowing, next to burner? Another possibility, a customer on LP gas with a NAT gas orifice. (and you are running this with the front panel completely on?)

Here is some diagnostics below for your model…..

In the diagnostics mode, a code of S0 indicates a
normally open circuit (the capacitor is charged
properly). The code E2 indicates a shorted capacitor
or some other problem on the board. To check
the discharging of the capacitor, touch the rods
with your hands, shorting the two rods for at least
5 seconds. The S0 will change to SS, indicating
that the capacitor discharged properly. No change
from S0 indicates that either the rods are not
connected to the board or there is some other
problem on the board.
Note: If you want to repeat the test, wait for at
least 45 seconds to fully charge the capacitor.
GEA00535
Press and hold
Start/Pause and
Cottons buttons.
Release Start/Pause
button and Cottons
button.
Press Stop/
Cancel button.
Loss of
Power to
Control
To Enter Field Service
Diagnostic Mode
To Exit Field Service
Diagnostic Mode
Field Service
Mode
Begin
30 Min.
Timeout
from Start
of Mode
Field Service
Mode
Idle
Sensor Rods Table
The Field Service Mode can be exited in three
ways:
1. Press the Stop/Cancel keypad.
2. Unplug the unit.
3. Control automatically exits test mode after 30
minutes.
Checking Power to the PCB
To check the presence of 240 V at the board, put
the dryer in Air Dry cycle (the motor will run with
no heat).
• If the outer heating element is OK, there will be
240 V between tap 16 (L2 through coil) and tap
8 (L1).
• If the inner heating element is OK, there will be
240 V between tap 10 (L2 through coil) and tap
8 (L1).
DSSD Output Diagnosis
SO to SS No Fault (Rods OK)
E2 to SS Capacitor Leaks

E2 to E2 Not Connected to Circuit

You have one of three possibilities. 1) defrost timer 2) Defrost thermostat 3) Defrost heater . The defost heater is most common on this model See links below.