All Answers

Do you have wet clothes in the unit? If the unit has an inlet and outlet thermistor it is going to look for a given temperature change. If it does not see that you will get erratic operation. Your venting plays in to this as well. It almost sounds like it’s in the Function Test Mode, that’s about the only time that it lists the Damp light on?
To prove out the code, you will need to get the dryer out far enough to disconnect the vent, then far enough to connect the dryer to a 240 Volt extension cord, I had to make my own. I took a long dryer cord and installed a 240 Volt receptacle to the end. I can now pull out the appliance and connect it up so I can run it out in the open.
If you get it out, run it and everything checks OK, you just proved to the customer that it is the vent system..Another way to check for a venting restriction is to take a piece of ¼” copper tubing and attach it to the end of your manometer hose and puncture the vent hose close to the dryer outlet. If you have more than a 6/10ths of an inch water column, you have a venting restriction. When done testing, put a piece of aluminum duct tape over the hole you made. Is this a pretty reliable way of testing vents? Also look at the burner tube. I have had a dryer that was doing the exact same thing, the flame spreader on the end of burner tube was bent down slightly causing a wide flame. The wide flame would hit the thermal and blow it, actually made it look like vent was completely restricted. Is this the thermal fuse that keeps blowing, next to burner? Another possibility, a customer on LP gas with a NAT gas orifice. (and you are running this with the front panel completely on?)

Here is some diagnostics below for your model…..

In the diagnostics mode, a code of S0 indicates a
normally open circuit (the capacitor is charged
properly). The code E2 indicates a shorted capacitor
or some other problem on the board. To check
the discharging of the capacitor, touch the rods
with your hands, shorting the two rods for at least
5 seconds. The S0 will change to SS, indicating
that the capacitor discharged properly. No change
from S0 indicates that either the rods are not
connected to the board or there is some other
problem on the board.
Note: If you want to repeat the test, wait for at
least 45 seconds to fully charge the capacitor.
GEA00535
Press and hold
Start/Pause and
Cottons buttons.
Release Start/Pause
button and Cottons
button.
Press Stop/
Cancel button.
Loss of
Power to
Control
To Enter Field Service
Diagnostic Mode
To Exit Field Service
Diagnostic Mode
Field Service
Mode
Begin
30 Min.
Timeout
from Start
of Mode
Field Service
Mode
Idle
Sensor Rods Table
The Field Service Mode can be exited in three
ways:
1. Press the Stop/Cancel keypad.
2. Unplug the unit.
3. Control automatically exits test mode after 30
minutes.
Checking Power to the PCB
To check the presence of 240 V at the board, put
the dryer in Air Dry cycle (the motor will run with
no heat).
• If the outer heating element is OK, there will be
240 V between tap 16 (L2 through coil) and tap
8 (L1).
• If the inner heating element is OK, there will be
240 V between tap 10 (L2 through coil) and tap
8 (L1).
DSSD Output Diagnosis
SO to SS No Fault (Rods OK)
E2 to SS Capacitor Leaks

E2 to E2 Not Connected to Circuit

You have one of three possibilities. 1) defrost timer 2) Defrost thermostat 3) Defrost heater . The defost heater is most common on this model See links below.

I recommend to start by checking the thermal fuse on this unit. See links below.

I would look at the door switch first for continuity. See links below.

If you have 115 volts to the ice maker and at least 1/2 inch of water I recommend replacing the ice maker on this unit. See links below.

Check for any obstructions in the pump , if there is no obstructions . I recommend replacing the drain pump on this unit. See links below.

Most common issue is the heating element on this unit. OLM out the element first before replacing . See links below.

I recommend replacing the main control board on this unit. See links below.

OLM out the element to start , let us know if opened or closed circuit . If open replace the element . See links below.

When the “option” led lights are flashing it indicates a power failure. Does this unit run the same amount of time each time before shutting off and blinking. IT could be a door switch issue, or wiring, or control board, or heat circuit issue. Check all of your connections and wiring. Try running a no heat cycle and see if it does the same thing. IF you open and close the door when it does this, will it start working again? What were your results of the test cycle you ran in diagnostics?

Is it ice or frost ? If it is frost I recommend installing a new jazz board on this unit. See links below.

Start off by checking the lid switch on this model, its very common. See links below.

If you inspect the water line carefully for leaks I recommend replacing the water inlet valve on this unit. See links below.

Most common is the idler pulley bearing making this noise . Remove the belt and check the idler pulley See links below.

See if the water is coming from the door if so I recommend replacing the door seal on this unit. See links below.

I recommend to OHM out the defrost heater and if it has continuity replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. . See links below.

If you have 220 volts to back terminal block. Start by replacing the thermal fuse on this unit. If See links below.

I recommend replacing the left front infinite switch on this unit ii the burner has continuity . Very common issue. See links below.

I recommend replacing the control thermostat on this unit. See links below.

I recommend replacing the main control board on this unit. See links below.