All Answers

If you can see a burnt spot on the element or you do not have continuity . I recommend replacing the heating bake element on this unit. See links below.

Sounds like a possible transmission internal gears. I recommend replacing the transmission on this unit. Review video to be sure its your issue. See links below.

There is a bearing kit on this unit that is very common . It sounds like a bad bearing review video link below. See links below.

I recommend replacing the interior light bulb on this unit.If your door switch turns the unit on and off its your bulb. If it does not you may have a bad door switch.

OHM out the heater if its open , I recommend replacing the heating bake element on this unit. See links below.

If you have 115 volts into the harness and water in the ice maker , I recommend replacing the ice maker on this unit. See links below.

In most cases on this model the most common issue for squealing is the idler pulley . See links below.

I recommend checking to see if there is any debris in the dryer exhaust venting, If so remove the debris and try to run the dryer again.

The E@ , F6 error code is an inlet valve error. I recommend replacing the inlet valve on this unit. See links below.

Check for power to the timer , if you have 115 volts I recommend replacing the timer on this unit. We have seen many timer problems on this model. See links below.

I would start by checking continuity on the heater , if open or no continuity, I recommend replacing the heating element on this unit. See links below.

You either have a defective defrost timer, Defrost heater, or defrost thermostat. I recommend replacing the defrost heater on this unit because we have had many of these go bad. If you have a OHM meter check the heater for continuity before changing. See links below.

I recommend to start by checking your pump for a restriction that got lodged in it, clothing , loose change ect. If nothing is restricting it, I recommend installing a new drain pump on this unit. See links below.

I found a tech sheet for a similar model.I attached it below for you. Not you exact unit but a lot of the info may be the same. On page 17 it shows the wire schematic and it shows a 4 wire door lock. Take a look there and see if that seems like the same one you have. What is going on with the unit? I would first recommend running the diagnostic test and checking for any stored error codes.

What happens in the spin cycle? Does the motor make any noise? You could have a bad motor, timer or pressure switch. IS the unit draining and filling properly? Theses units are known to get a clog in the pressure hose, right where it attached to the tub at. Try all the other cycles on spin to see if any of them work.

Hello
If you have 115 volts to the evaporator motor and its not running it is defective. You either have an open winding or a tied up motor. Here is the motor part number you need. W10128551 Matt Ace technician

I have attached the tech sheet to for your unit below. The F40 error code is for the for a Shorted or open ATC thermistor. Locate the F40 error code on the sheet. IT explains to run a couple of tests listed on other pages of the tech sheet to properly diagnose your issue.

When you say it is freezing up, are you referring to the fill tube freezing? There is a service pointer for the issue you are having. There is a heater on the fill tube. Under periods of ice maker inactivity it can freeze up. There is an updated fill tube heater kit to correct the issue. The part number you need is W10347267.

Hi. I just responded to you question earlier. If nothing is working, try resetting the unit like I explained in the previous question and if it still will not start up or go into diagnostic mode, you may be looking at the board. The control board does have an indicator light on it. You can check for this light. I think it is green. This means you do have power to the board and it is not sensing any issues. Also check for proper power. I just had one of these yesterday that did not have proper power. It had 120v but from hot to ground it has 100v and from neutral to ground it had 20v. This was causing it to glitch up and not start. Also, certain other electrical devices that are on the same circuit as the washer can cause interference and cause the washer to glitch up as well.

Hi. I have attached the tech sheet for your unit. It explains how to enter the diagnostic mode and check for the evap fan motor operation. If the fan motor is not running in the test mode it explains to check for voltage to the fan motor. Sounds like you have a control board issue, or wiring issue if you installed the fan motor and its still not running. The diagnostic mode will be the best route to take for testing this.