All Answers

If you have proper power and polarity and the unit is unresponsive , I recommend replacing the main control board on this unit. See links below.

I recommend replacing the bake igniter on this unit. It is the most common issue. Just make sure you have 115 volts to the igniter. See links below.

I recommend replacing the drain tube kit on this unit. Its a very common issue.

This could be one of two things. 1) A bad relay on the control board making the noise . 2) The overload on the compressor making the noise. We have had more issues with the control board on the unit making a loud clicking noise. If its the overload making the noise you will hear it about every 45 seconds and it will last less than one second. I recommend replacing the main control board on this unit. See links below.

If you can see a burnt spot on the element or you do not have continuity . I recommend replacing the heating bake element on this unit. See links below.

Sounds like a possible transmission internal gears. I recommend replacing the transmission on this unit. Review video to be sure its your issue. See links below.

There is a bearing kit on this unit that is very common . It sounds like a bad bearing review video link below. See links below.

I recommend replacing the interior light bulb on this unit.If your door switch turns the unit on and off its your bulb. If it does not you may have a bad door switch.

OHM out the heater if its open , I recommend replacing the heating bake element on this unit. See links below.

If you have 115 volts into the harness and water in the ice maker , I recommend replacing the ice maker on this unit. See links below.

In most cases on this model the most common issue for squealing is the idler pulley . See links below.

I recommend checking to see if there is any debris in the dryer exhaust venting, If so remove the debris and try to run the dryer again.

The E@ , F6 error code is an inlet valve error. I recommend replacing the inlet valve on this unit. See links below.

Check for power to the timer , if you have 115 volts I recommend replacing the timer on this unit. We have seen many timer problems on this model. See links below.

I would start by checking continuity on the heater , if open or no continuity, I recommend replacing the heating element on this unit. See links below.

You either have a defective defrost timer, Defrost heater, or defrost thermostat. I recommend replacing the defrost heater on this unit because we have had many of these go bad. If you have a OHM meter check the heater for continuity before changing. See links below.

I recommend to start by checking your pump for a restriction that got lodged in it, clothing , loose change ect. If nothing is restricting it, I recommend installing a new drain pump on this unit. See links below.

I found a tech sheet for a similar model.I attached it below for you. Not you exact unit but a lot of the info may be the same. On page 17 it shows the wire schematic and it shows a 4 wire door lock. Take a look there and see if that seems like the same one you have. What is going on with the unit? I would first recommend running the diagnostic test and checking for any stored error codes.

What happens in the spin cycle? Does the motor make any noise? You could have a bad motor, timer or pressure switch. IS the unit draining and filling properly? Theses units are known to get a clog in the pressure hose, right where it attached to the tub at. Try all the other cycles on spin to see if any of them work.

Hello
If you have 115 volts to the evaporator motor and its not running it is defective. You either have an open winding or a tied up motor. Here is the motor part number you need. W10128551 Matt Ace technician