All Answers

I recommend checking to see if the water dispensor bin is plugged up if so clear all debris from the unit.

Trace your neutral wire back to source, you have hot lead but no neutral or common. If you had 120 volts on one side, this sounds like the hard way to find out ground the other side. See if the fan runs at full speed have had a couple of open/bad white ground return on the fan check molex plug in ref or back by compressor. See evaporator fan motor videos. Also replace the defrost thermastat as the evaporator motor wires in series the Therm.

This sounds like a frozen drain line. I recommend clearing the ice build up and any debris found in the drain. We blow out the drain lines with CO2 compressed air tanks. You can also use a Turkey baster to clan out the drain when particles from wrappers and paper get stuck in their. See video links below for suggestions

First make sure you have good air flow from venting. If you are not sure if the vent is plugged, remove the vent from the back of the dryer. If you run 2-3 cycles and its heating good you have a plugged vent or possibility the outside vent flap may not be opening causing a restricted air flow. If the vent is not the issue, I recommend installing a new set of booster coils on this unit and also checking to make sure you have proper airflow through your dryer exhaust.See parts and video links below.

I recommend installing a new bearing kit on this unit. See parts and video links below.

HI. Sounds like a bad thermostat. I have replaced many of these T-stats for this same issue. I would definitely take one with you if you can. P# 2198202. Video attached.

Hi. I found the hinge. I am not having any luck with the linkage. I will continue looking and get back to you. The hinge part numbers are 00741883, and 00741885.

The F8E2 error code is for a DISPENSER SYSTEM ERROR. This is on page 10 of the tech sheet that I have attached. It says to run test 12 on page 21 to find out what is at fault, causing this error code for you. Could be the CCU, dispenser motor, linkage between or wire harness. Go through the steps in the test and it should get you to the root of the problem.

Yes. It does sound like a drain issue. Very common to have a blockage. Possibly a bad drain pump. You can access the drain filter very easy on this one. Bottom left corner. Just a cover to take off. Same place they have been draining the water from the hose. Video attached

That’s a strange one. Have you tried to put the unit into diagnostic mode to check for any error codes and run a automatic cycle? Check for proper power especially a proper ground. Are the back panels on? They both have ground switches that can cause issues when you take them off and try and run the machine.

Hate to say it, but the touch pad probably has a resistance issue that has affected the output side of the control board. Since the touch pad is low voltage, it can damage the capacitors, etc. on the sensing end of the ERC electronic control relay. As long as you are certain that there is a solid Neutral connection to the oven, then you may want to bid both parts, starting with a new touch pad. That way, if the resistance issue goes away, the control may not have to also be replaced. Preparing them for the worst-case scenario is best, however, just to cover your bases.

END OF SERVICE TEST SEQUENCE
After each service is completed, the following test shall be performed in order to ensure proper function on all
feature modes:
Connect unit to power, set power “ON” and wait until “CONTROL LOCK” clears and display shows “PF” (this will
take approx. 10 seconds). Within one minute perform the following steps in the sequence indicated:
1. Press CONVECTION BROIL.
2. Press CLEAN.
3. Press BAKED GOODS.
4. Press STOP TIME.
5. Press 1.
6. Press 9.
7. Press TIMER SET-START.
The clock display will show “6AS” and one of the
following:
– “hb-FS”, for Hidden Bake Free Standing units,
– “Eb-FS”, for Exposed Bake Free Standing units,
– “hb-SI”, for Hidden Bake Slide In units, and
– “Eb-SI”, for Exposed Bake Slide In units.
8. Next, in order to confirm proper function for each
feature, keep pressing START until control scrolled
through all features.
For Convection Units
1. Press CLEAN.
2. Press STOP TIME.
3. Press 0.
4. Press OVEN LIGHT.
5. Press 1.
6. Press START.
7. Next, in order to confirm proper function for each
feature, keep pressing “START” until control
scrolled through all features.

There is a screw on the bottom side of the dispenser. Once you remove the screw, grip the cover from underneath and pull hard. This is a grip it and rip it procedure, but the only way to really remove these. Samsung recommends that you remove the single screw, then pull from under the right edge outward, then pull the left side clear. Don’t worry about stressing the plastic….I have not had one break yet.

I would replace the TS as it could still be defective. We have run into this issue many times. Matt Ace technician

Sounds like you need a bearing kit on this unit. If it sounds like a freight truck and gets louder as it spins it will be the bearing. See parts and video links below.

I recommend replacing the actuator switch then calibrating the unit. Most common issue on this model. See parts and video links below.

I recommend replacing the wax motor on this unit. Very common issue. See parts and video links below.

I recommend installing a new drum assembly and two rear support rollers on this unit. See parts and video links below.

I recommend installing a new magnetron and converter on this unit. See parts and video links below.

I recommend installing a new cavity TCO. See parts and video links below.

I recommend replacing the dispenser paddle assembly. See parts and video links below.