0 votes

I recommend installing a new drain tube kit as this is a common problem on these units. See link https://www.appliancevideo.com/whirlpool-gb2fhdxws07-refrigerator-repair-ice-buildup-in-the-bottom-of-the-freezer-drain-grommet/

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I recommend installing a new thermal fuse on this unit. Its the best a most cost effective place to start. See parts and video links below.

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I would start by checking the igniter on this unit.

0 votes

I recommend checking to see if the drive belt is broken. If so replace the belt.See parts and video links below.

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In reply to: Not heating properly

I would start by recommending to check to make sure the exhaust venting is not clogged. If the venting is clogged then i recommend cleaning or replacing it. If it is not plugged email us back for further instructions. See link on dryer vent issues. https://www.appliancevideo.com/?cat=&s=plugged+dryer+vent&post_type%5B%5D=post&post_type%5B%5D=premiumvideos&post_type%5B%5D=fromthefield&post_type%5B%5D=embdvideo

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In reply to: Not starting at all

If you have a display and the drum only is not turning , I recommend checking to see if the drum belt is broken, if so replace the belt. See parts and video links below.

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That is call the water solenoid or inlet valve. I recommend installing a new inlet valve on this unit. See parts and video links below.

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HI. Is there brown colored water stains underneath the washer in a spraying motion? Is the unit loud in spin? If so you have a bad bearing and will need to replace it. IT comes in a kit with the tub seal and you need a special tool to install it. Here is a video on how to replace it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otENoG8hZlY . The bearing kit is part # W10435302. The bearing tool is W10447783 . Here is another video that shows the complete break down of this unit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9XyapB1Uep8

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Sounds like the rear drum supports or the rear felt seal are worn down creating a bigger gap around the back of the drum. Video attached.

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In reply to: WATER LEAK

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STyYuS8ToNw
I have seen the water line in the back on the unit get brittle and leak. The video above shows this. Other than that not any common issues I familiar with. Just gonna have to turn the water on and see where the leak is coming from.

0 votes
In reply to: ERROR CODE SY CE

That is strange. I have replace just the mainboard many times to fix this issue with that error code. I have never seen it be the user interface board, though I have heard it has been the issue for some people. Check your sensor for the ice maker. These get damaged alot and tear off the bottom of the ice maker. I have heard a couple of times these sensors causing the same error code. I believe the sensor is a part of the ice maker, you have to replace it all together.

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The FF thermister and Freezer thermister are the usual suspects. Cross-check their respective resistances according to the tech sheet. If they are both within tolerance, the PCB is likely bad. The thermistors that control the temps. on each side respectively. You said that previous company replaced them, but maybe they replaced only the defrost thermistors, they will be spliced in? I had same issue couple years back, the FF temp thermistor was the culprit. Try checking that voltage with the fan harness unplugged, also the sensor harness. Read the voltage at the proper pins at the board itself. If you find 5 VDC, the board is sending power to the thermisters. It could be a hall sensor on one of the fan motors causing the issue. I usually unplug the fan harness first and wait for a response from the inverter.

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Hi. DO you need to check the operation of the damper? What has been going on with this unit? Whats the problem with it? Have you recently installed a control board? I have attached the Service manual on this unit for you. It should help you out.

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In reply to: Model 592-29222

Kenmore units you will have to look up through sears. I could not pull this unit up however. It looks like it’s not a full model number. Did you get the model number off the model tag on the unit? That is where you will need to get it. The owners manual does not give complete model numbers. I did search this model number on the Web and it did come up as a washer but not on searz to look up parts.

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In reply to: bottom freezer door

I am not able to find any videos on this unit. I have searched the web as well. Here is the breakdown of the freezer drawer of this unit. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-part/fphb2899pf0/1428/0161000/r1303012/00001.html
Does this help at all? Do you have a part number that I can try searching for a video?. We may be able to pull up a video on a similar unit.

0 votes
In reply to: bottom freezer door

Hello
Here are a couple suggestions on videos that I feel will help. Let us know if they help.
Matt Ace technician

0 votes
In reply to: no power at all

You do not have any voltage to the unit? Did you check for voltage at the outlet? If your not getting any power at the outlet then there is a electrical issue with in the circuit of the house. You will need to have that looked at by an electrician, or plug the unit into an outlet that is good. If you do have power but the nothing is working on the unit, the fuse is probably bad inside the unit. This fuse is usually on the filter board located behind the control panel at the top. I have attached a video that shows this. AT about 3:40 in the video.

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I have attached the tech sheet for you. It explains the blinking lights, which does not look like they have anything to do with the ice maker. This will also explain how to check for any error codes. When you pressed and held the test button on the ice maker did it run through a cycle? If so I would say the ice maker is bad. You can find out the correct test points on the schematic and test for proper voltage at the ice maker. It voltage is being sent from the board and its not working then bad ice maker. If board is not sending voltage then bad control board. Most likely the ice maker is the issue.

0 votes
In reply to: power board

I think the unit has a HI temperature alarm. If the temp is warm inside the unit it will have HI on the display until the temp comes back down inside unit. If everything is working now with the new board, give it a day and once temps are normal it should go off. If not let me know.

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