All Answers

I have attached the manual for this washer. on page 4-1 you will find the error codes and how to enter into diagnostic mode to find error codes. Then starting on 6-1 you will find services tests.

I have attached a video for you that shows a compressor install and recharge. Take a look at the end of the video. IT shows how to recharge the system. You will need to reclaim the remaining refrigerant in the system first, just like in the beginning of the video. Then You will need a scale to add in the correct amount of refrigerant, which can be found on the model tag inside the unit.

Very possible that the contol is the issue. Need to make sure we have proper power to the board first. If we can get the unit to power back on we can run the diagnostics and find out what error code was present.

Hi. It looks like this is a Panasonic. I am not able to look up this model number for some reason. If the fuse is good, see if there is power going to the control board. Does the fuse sit on a small control board? This is the noise filter board and I have seen a few go bad. If no power to the main control board this noise filter board could be the issue. Check for incoming power to this filter board. I have attached our microwave videos for you as well.

Here are the links to the videos I put in the answer earlier.

Hi. This appears to be a Samsung built unit. Make sure you have the door switches closed when checking fan operation. Sometimes it can take 15 seconds or so after the door switch is closed for the fan to start running. Also, with the frost built up on the evaporator, the unit can recognize this and not allow the fan to run either. What did you find to be the reason the evaporator was frosted up? Is it not defrosting, or was the drain tube clogged?Clogged drain tubes and defrost issues are common on these units. After you defrost it, I would recommend to unplug the unit for 15 mins to reset the board. Here are some videos to take a look at that should help you out.

Drain issues
https://www.appliancevideo.com/advanced-search/#sf-{“2″:”210″,”3″:”drain”,”4″:”45″,”search-id”:”vidsearch”}

Defrost issues
https://www.appliancevideo.com/advanced-search/#sf-{“2″:”210″,”3″:”defrost”,”4″:”45″,”search-id”:”vidsearch”}

Before replacing any more parts let’s make sure you are getting hot water to the unit. Try running the water to your sink first to make sure you have water that is at least 120 degrees in the pipes and going to the unit. Try that the next couple of times you run the dishwasher and see if that rectifies the issue. You also want to confirm the unit is hooked up to the hot water line not the cold water line, depending where you are at in the county this can make a big difference in the winter months.
Your next step in replacing parts in the heating circuit would be replacing your thermistor, relatively easy to replace and relatively low in cost. If none of those work for you you may have to go back to replacing your heater and board. There is a known issue where the heater and the board need to be replaced together as a kit for that model.

If your original heater# is 8269244 there is a replacement kit with heater and board together of part# 8193995
If your original heater# is 8268559 there is a replacement kit with heater and board together of part# 8193995
If your original heater# is 8563464 (KitchenAid Models) there is a replacement kit with heater and board together of part# 8193995
If your original heater# is 8563464 (Whirlpool Models) there is a replacement kit with heater and board together of part# 8193996.

There was a change in wattage in the heater, and some units require a new electronic control. The control pulses the heater on and off during operations. The control needs to be looked up by which heater you have, not by the original part number listed on the machine. If it is looked up only by model you may get a control board that fails on you.

Good luck on the repair and let us know how it goes!

ApplianceVideo.com

There are two evaporators on this model . If the fresh food is getting heavy frost build up the door may not be closing all the way or it could have a bad door seal. If this is not the case you could have a defective thermister # W10316760 . Or you may have a refrigerant diverter valve issue # W10331270. See video link below. https://www.appliancevideo.com/premiumotr/whirlpool-refrigerator-diverter-valve-reversing-valve-repair/

Matt Ace technician

If I am correctly understanding your explanation the inlet tube that supplies water to the ice maker is freezing inside the tube preventing water into the ice maker. If this is the case replace the water inlet solenoid valve Part #242252702. When the inlet tube freezes up, it is due to the diaphragm of the valve not seated properly. The water trickles through the valve and freezes the inlet tube. This will take care and rectify your issue . Matt Ace Appliance

Here is the link to a video on this repair. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZKgP6hu8Fk
IF you need anything else just let me know.

Here is the link again.

When you say the lights went off, are you referring to the drum light or the lights on the console? If the drum light, I would first check your door switch. Check for proper power at the terminal block. There are several different things that can cause this unit to not start including thermal fuses, belt switch, and faulty motor. Does the unit make any noises or anything when you press start? Take a look at this link to see many videos we have on similar dryers that have this symptom. https://www.appliancevideo.com/advanced-search/#sf-{“2″:”192″,”4″:”40″,”search-id”:”vidsearch”}

Here is a link to our VIDEO By Model look up page. It is the best way to find a video for your specific model and the only model look up in the industry. http://lookup.appliancevideo.com/lookup/207229/1421507
Diagnostic Mode

Here is a link to GE refrigerator repairs — https://www.appliancevideo.com/advanced-search/#sf-{“2″:”195″,”4″:”45″,”search-id”:”vidsearch”}

Here is technical information on your specific model below.
Enter the diagnostic mode by pressing both the freezer temperature pads (plus and minus) and the
refrigerator temperature pads (plus and minus) simultaneously. All 4 pads must be held for
approximately 3 seconds. Blinking “0’s” in both displays indicate the refrigerator has entered the test
mode.
Enter the appropriate display numbers as shown
below and press any pad other than the temperature
pads to activate that test mode.
Freezer
Display
Fresh
Food
Display
Diagnostics Results Comments
0 2
Communication check
between Temperature
Control and Main Control.
“P” on freezer display if OK.
“F” means problem is found.
0 7 Control and Sensor
System Test.
Checks each thermistor and
diplays “P” for pass and “0” for
fail.
See note 1 below.
1 0 Damper Test. Opens damper, pauses briefly,
and then closes damper.
1 2 100% Run Time.
Sealed system on 100% of the
time. Times out after
1 hour.
1 3 Pre-chill Test. Starts pre-chill mode. Unit
returns to normal on its own.
1 4 Defrost Test. Toggles on the defrost cycle.
See note 2 below.
Must press again
to turn heaters off.
See note 2 below.
1 5 Main Control Reset. Causes a system reset.
1 6 Exit Diagnostic Mode. Causes a temperature control
board reset.
Note 1: Display order is: 1) Fresh Food 1, 2) Fresh Food 2, 3) Custom Cool, 4) Thermistor test
results are P = pass, 0 = fail, S = short to 5 VDC, B = bad amplifier (replace main control).
Note 2: You must enter the defrost test again to toggle the defrost heater off at the end of the test.
The heater will not come on if the evaporator thermistor is warm.
– 37 –
Fresh Food Warm – Freezer Normal
Check control settings and temperatures.
Food at setting of 37 °F and 0 °F with no door
openings for 12 hours should be:
Fresh food 34 °F to 42 °F
Freezer -8 °F to +6 °F
Control settings
require adjustment
Adjust settings and allow
24 hours to stabilize.
Control settings OK
Basic refrigerator checks:
Door gasket seal OK?
Door switch – light turning off with door closed?
No
Repair as
necessary.
Set temperature controls to 37 °F and 0 °F.
Unplug Refrigerator.
Reconnect power.
Does damper door open immediately after
reconnecting power?
Go to Damper Door Not Operating
flowchart.
No
Yes
Is the airflow within the fresh food normal?
Look for blockage at vents
or heavy frost on
evaporator cover.
No
Go to Heavy Frost on Evaporator
flowchart.
Remove blockage
from vent area.
Blockage
Check sealed system.
Does sealed system check OK?
Unit tests OK.
Run checks again.
Reset electronics by unplugging
refrigerator for 15 seconds.
Look for usage problem.
Repair
sealed system.
No
Yes
Yes
Is evaporator fan running?
Go to Evaporator Fan
Not Running flowchart.
NO
Verify thermistors are within proper range
using the thermistor values chart.
Is the resistance within range?
YES
Check wiring connections.
If wiring is OK, replace
thermistor.
NO
Heavy frost
YES
– 38 –
Fresh Food Too Cold – Freezer Normal
Check control settings and temperatures.
Food at a setting of 37 °F and 0 °F with no
door openings for 12 hours should be:
Fresh food 34 °F to 42 °F
Freezer -8 °F to +6 °F
Adjust setting and allow
24 hours to stabilize.
Controls require
adjustment
Room temperature
must be above 55 °F
to avoid low ambient
condition.
Room temperature
above 55 °F?
Control settings OK
Advise consumer of
refrigeration installation
requirements.
NO
Is the damper closed?
YES
NO
Verify thermistors are
within proper range
using thermistor values
chart.
Is the resistance within
proper range?
YES
Check wiring
connections. If
OK, replace
thermistor.
NO
Unit tests OK.
Run checks again.
Reset electronics by
unplugging refrigerator for 15
seconds.
Look for usage problem.
YES
Go to Damper Not
Operating flowchart.

Fresh Food Warm – Freezer Warm
Basic refrigerator checks:
Door gasket seal OK?
Door switch – light turning off with door closed?
Repair as
necessary.
Is the condenser fan running?
Is the compressor running?
Is the evaporator fan running?
Is the airflow within the freezer normal? NO
Go to
Condenser Fan Not Running flowchart.
Go to
Evaporator Fan Not Running flowchart.
Go to
Compressor Not Running flowchart.

Check sealed system.
Does system check OK?
Unit tests OK.
Run checks again.
Reset electronics by unplugging refrigerator
for 15 seconds.
Look for usage problem.
Repair
sealed system.

Hi. I am not having any luck on this unit. Since it is manufactured by LG, but it is a Kenmore makes it more difficult to find info on. I tried the evap fan part number as well and nothing comes up. If I can help in any other way on this one let me know. Did you have the door switches closed when checking the fan motor? Most LG unit require the doors to be closed for the fan to run.

Hi. If the pressure switch did not take care of it and your sure the hose is not clogged and does not have any holes, then the control board is likely the culprit. The CCU board. P#W10180782. There is also a steam board and a motor control board. I would not think the motor control has anything to do with this issue, but the error code does say that this error code is displayed when there is a malfunction of the steamer component detected by the Steamer Electronic Board. So the steamer or the steamer board are possibilities as well. Are there any other error codes displayed in the system? Will it run through a diagnostics test cycle? Attached are a couple videos on the F35 error code and a forum I found that talks about this error.

See link to ice maker videos — https://www.appliancevideo.com/?cat=&s=ice+maker&post_type%5B%5D=post&post_type%5B%5D=premiumvideos&post_type%5B%5D=fromthefield&post_type%5B%5D=embdvideo

Operation and Troubleshooting
Introduction:
The Twist-Tray Ice Maker (IM) is a 10 cube ice maker manufactured by Sankyo. It is a single
unit with no replaceable parts. The IM operates with DC voltages of 14VDC and 5VDC, and
water pressure between 30 and 120 psi. It produces around 3.5lbs of ice per day (4lbs per
day if MAX ICE is enabled).
IM timing and logic is controlled by the UI Core Control Board. The IM has the following
operational components (Figure 1):
• DC Motor with bi-directional movement
• Bail Arm to sense ice level in the ice bin
• Internal feedback switch to determine motor position
• Thermistor
The DC motor twists the ice tray. Ice is detached by the twisting motion, no heater is
needed. The motor also operates the bail arm.
The bail arm, and the internal feedback switch, checks if the ice bin is full.
The internal feedback switch helps determine if the ice bin is full and monitors motor shaft
position.
The thermistor senses the temperature of the ice tray to determine if the water is frozen.
(Below 8°F (-13°C) for Normal Ice, 5°F (-15°C) for Max Ice.
Figure 1: Sankyo Twist Tray Ice Maker
Thermistor
Bail Arm
DC Motor
and Internal
Feedback Switch
Ice Tray

Ice Maker Operation
The information in this section is available as a flow chart. See Attachment 1 – Ice Maker Normal Operation Flow Chart.
The IM has five standard states during normal operation. They are:
1. Homing
2. Filling
3. Freezing
4. Ice Ready
5. Harvesting
Other states include Homing Paused, Harvesting Paused, and IM Jammed.
Homing
When power is initially applied to the IM, it will enter the Homing state. 14VDC is applied to the motor driving it counterclockwise
(CCW). The internal feedback switch closes when the ice tray reaches the home (fill) position.
If the IM is not in the Home position after 45 seconds, the IM will enter the Jammed state. The IM will attempt Homing
every 60 minutes while in the Jammed state.
Filling
IM filling is skipped for the first cycle following a power interruption to the refrigerator. This ensures the IM is not
overfilled, and results in a 3 hour wait for the first batch of ice to drop.
For subsequent cycles, 115VAC is applied to the IM water valve solenoid for 15 seconds, filling the IM with 3.38 fl. Oz.
(100ml) of water.
The water fill tube has a heater to prevent icing of the fill tube following Filling. At the beginning of the Filling state, the fill
tube heater, if on, will be turned off. After filling completes, a 20 minute delay timer will begin. After these 20 minutes
pass, the fill tube heater will turn on for 90 minutes, or until the beginning of the next fill cycle, whichever comes first.
During periods where the IM is inactive (turned off, full ice bin, etc.) it is possible for the fill tube to freeze over. After the
IM becomes active again, it may take one or two cycles to thaw the ice maker inlet tube line.
Freezing
After the 15 second fill time, the IM enters the Freezing state until the ice cubes are ready. The ice cubes are ready after
time and temperature requirements are met. Time and temperature requirements vary between normal ice mode, and
MAX ICE.
In normal ice mode, the thermistor temperature must be at or below 8°F (-13°C). In addition, a minimum of 85 minutes
must pass. If the RC or FC door is opened during the Freeze state, the timer is paused until the door is closed and
additional time is added. For example, if the FC door is opened for 5 minutes, the timer stops for 5 minutes and 5 minutes
are also added to the 85 minute timer for a total of 95 minutes.
In MAX ICE mode, the minimum timer is decreased to 70 minutes, but the thermistor temperature must be at or below 5°F
(-15°C)

Page 3
Ice Ready
After the ice is ready the IM checks that the ice bin is present, the FC door is closed, and the ice bin is not full. If these
conditions are met, the IM enters the Harvesting state.
To check whether the ice bin is full, 14VDC is applied to the IM motor, driving it clockwise (CW).
The motor begins twisting the tray and lowers the bail arm. In the first 7 seconds, if the bail arm contacts ice the internal
feedback switch will close indicating the bucket is full. The DC motor will reverse direction, driving the ice tray counterclockwise
(CCW) back to the home position.
The IM will wait 60 minutes, and then repeat this process to check if the ice bin is still full. This process repeats until the
IM is not full.
When the ice bin is not full, the internal feedback switch will remain open during these first 7 seconds, and the IM will
enter the harvest state, while continuing to drive the IM in the CW direction.
Harvesting
During Harvesting, the position of the internal feedback switch indicates the position of the ice tray.
Since the ice bin is not full, the IM motor continues driving in the CW direction. The CW motion continues, twisting the ice
tray to a 160° rotation and dumping the ice. When the tray reaches 160° rotation, the internal feedback switch closes
indicating end of course for the ice tray. Travel from the home to end of course position takes between 14 and 20
seconds.
After reaching end of course, the polarity of the 14VDC is reversed, and the IM motor drives the tray in a CCW direction.
The internal feedback switch opens shortly after the IM motor begins moving in the CCW direction. The switch will close
again when the ice tray is back to the Home position. Travel from the end of course position, to Home takes between 13
and 19 seconds.
If the IM is not in the Home position after 45 seconds, the IM will enter the Jammed state. The IM will attempt Homing
every 60 minutes while in the Jammed state.
Harvesting Paused
During Harvesting, if the ice bin is removed, or the FC door is opened, Harvesting will pause and the IM will not move.
Harvesting will resume when the ice bin is present and the FC door is closed, provided the door was not open for more
than 60 minutes. If the door was open more than 60 minutes, the IM will enter Homing until thermistor freezing
temperature is satisfied. After the freezing temperature is satisfied, Harvesting will begin again.
Homing Paused
During Homing, if the ice bin is removed, or the FC door is opened Homing will be paused and the IM will not move.

If the compressor is running check the Thermistors . If the thermisters chk out then go you may have a sealed system issue see diagnostics below. See videos on refrigerant leaks .We work on these all the time those main control boards are a big issue as well as low on Freon so check both but if the compressor is not running most likely it’s in your board there are two boards one in front of the unit display one in the back by the compressor left side it is very difficult to get to.
In the past we have changed the front display it works but end up going back and changing the back board as well
https://www.appliancevideo.com/?s=sealed+system&cat=&tag=&post_type%5B%5D=post&post_type%5B%5D=premiumvideos&post_type%5B%5D=fromthefield&post_type%5B%5D=embdvideo

The wine cellars, beverage centers, and refrigerated drawers utilize two thermistors: one is known as the evaporator
thermistor and the other as the display thermistor. Each thermistor has a different function for input to the electronic
control.
Evaporator thermistor (part number 41050057):
The evaporator themistor turns the unit on and off. It is secured to the evaporator or cabinet liner.
Display thermistor (part number 41050058):
The display thermistor is connected to the LED display and displays the temperature inside the unit on the display
panel.
The following will happen in the event of one or both thermistors fail:
1. If the evaporator thermistor fails, all loads will be shut off and the unit will not run.
2. If the evaporator thermistor senses temperature outside of 0-140 degrees F, all loads will be shut off and the
unit will not run.
3. The display panel will flash E3 for an evaporator thermistor failure and E4 for a display thermistor failure. If
both thermistors fail, the error codes will be displayed sequentially. An audible alarm will also sound six times
every minute if either one or both thermistors fails.
The thermistor can be checked by use of a multimeter with the ability to read resistance. To check the thermistor:
1. Disconnect and remove thermistor from unit.
2. Use a reference temperature point that is know (such as an ice bath) and measure the resistance across the
wire leads.
3. Compare the recorded resistance with Table C.
If measured resistance falls outside the resistance given in Table C within 4% of the value, the thermistor is bad and
will need to be replaced.
Table C: Resistance versus Temperature Chart
Temperature (C) Temperature (F) Resistance (K-OHMS)

If the thermistor has been tested and is found to be good, check the temperature of the evaporator plate and the
resistance of the thermistor. If the temperature of the evaporator plate does not correspond to a proper resistance
from the thermistor, check for a proper and secure connection of the thermistor to the evaporator plate bracket.
12

Use a leak detection system that will detect R-134a refrigerant. Leaks need to be found on any leaking system
BEFORE the repair takes place.
2. The drier must be replaced anytime the sealed system is opened. Always use a MARVEL drier. Failure to do so
may cause repeated system failure in the future.
3. Limit time the system is opened. DO NOT EXPOSE THE OPEN SYSTEM FOR MORE THAN 15 MINUTES. This
will result in sealed system failure. Leave replacement parts sealed and/or pressurized until ready to install.
4. The compressor must be replaced if there is a low side leak. Moisture has been drawn into the system if the
unit has been running for an extended period of time. Be sure to flush the system with dry nitrogen gas and
evacuate to 50 microns before re-charging (see Section 2.2, Low Side Leaks).
5. A new evaporator assembly must be ordered if the capillary tube is found to be plugged or severely restricted.
Restrictions cannot be flushed out.
6. Be sure to purge the system with dry nitrogen gas after final brazing. This will flush out any air or moisture that
may have entered the system before being absorbed into the ester oil.
2.2 Low Side leaks
Low side leaks consist of a break in the system at the evaporator, low side (suction) return line, or accumulator. If a
leak is found in any of these areas, moisture has probably entered the system. The compressor and drier will have
to be replaced and the system will need to be flushed thoroughly with nitrogen gas and evacuated to 50 microns
before re-charging.
2.3 High Side Leaks
High side leaks consist of a break in the system at the condenser, high side tubing, drier, or capillary tube. If a
leak is found in any of these areas, the system can be flushed with nitrogen gas, evacuated to 50 microns, and recharged.
2.4 Restricted Capillary Tube
Moisture or other contaminants that enter the system can cause deposits in the system. These deposits will usually
collect in the capillary tube and form a restriction that cannot be completely removed by flushing. If the capillary
tube is found to be restricted, the evaporator, compressor, condenser, and drier should all be replaced.
2.5 Access Valves
A temporary access valve can be used to service or evaluate the system. From these access valves, you can evacuate,
charge, and recover the system. The access valve can be installed on the compressor’s process tube (this will
also be a low pressure side). Be sure to cap off access valve while servicing. This will prevent contamination of
the sytem and/or refrigerant from leaking. After servicing, the access valve should be removed. A pinch-off tool
can be used to close the system to remove the access valve and then braze the hole for the access valve to seal the
system. Be sure to leak check after brazing.
3

If the defrost sensor is open, the coils will frost up. A blocked drain will also cause this. The system is probably not low on refrigerant with that amp draw, but this is something you must see by looking at the frost pattern yourself after the unit has been running for 10 minutes on a clear evaporator. This ice maker had a loop of the coolant line running through it. If the customer was chipping away at the ice or removed the ice maker improperly, they may have also damaged that refrigerant line. If that is the case see the series of videos in the link below for additional help https://www.appliancevideo.com/appliances/samsung-rf263teaesr-refrigerator/

Hi. It does not sound like the main control board is at fault. The ice may be related to your temp issue. Find out why the evaporator is freezing up. This can be from a frozen drain tube or a defrost issue. Both of which can block air flow from the evap fan causing food near the evap to freeze and temps in the upper section of the frige to be too warm. I have attached a link for the Repair guide on this unit. Start on page 307 to help you with figure out the temp issue, and ice issue. Take a look at the tech sheet I have attached also. You can check to see if there are any stored error codes as well as put the unit into a defrost cycle and check different components. Test your freezer sensor and evap sensor first before replacing the board. Take a look at the link I have attached for our Samsung refrigerator repair videos also. There are many videos on this issue you are having.

I see that it shows the electronic defrost control instead of a timer which your unit has. I found another tech sheet for a similar unit that shows a timer. I have attached it for you. It does not show the fan running off the switch either. Does the compressor run as well during defrost or just the fan? You could have a shorted thermostat.