All Answers

The 2 bottom videos in the link I attached shows igniter repairs in similar unit.

Sounds like a bad igniter. Do you have power to the igniter in a bake cycle? 120V.? Does the igniter glow in a bake cycle?

Hi. I have attached the tech sheet on this unit for you. It looks like the freezer door switch controls the ice maker and light, but does not control the fan. It gets is power from the adaptive defrost board. I would have thought replacing that would have fixed it for you. Let me know what you find out or if you need any further help.

Hi. I have seen this issue many times before. It is an issue with the water temperature switch. p#W10179666. You can sometimes unplug the unit, then unplug the wires from this switch and plug them back in and it will reset it. You can try this to verify its the issue. It may not last long before it acts up again.

Look at page 20 of the service manual I attached. I have also attached a Bosch error code sheet for you oven as well. Take a look at this too. Neither one show an error code of F02. Is that the correct error code you are getting? Any other error codes? Run the diagnostic mode in the service manual to find error codes.

OK. There are a few things that can cause this. First of all, was this in s self clean cycle and that’s how the door was locked? There are thermal fuses that can go bad during self clean causing this to happen. You could also have an issue the the door latch or control board. I have attached the service manual for a similar model. IT should work for the most part for your unit as well. Page 9 talks about the door latch and it being able to be tested in diagnostic mode. Starting on page 21, it lists the error codes and explains how to access diagnostic mode. You will want to check your error codes and run a diagnostic mode to test your components and go from there.

Ok. I have found and attached the service manual for you on this unit. First take a look at page 9. Follow the steps to check error codes. You may find an error code as to why the ice maker is not working. Next take a look at page page 22. It states there is a test button on the bottom of the ice maker. When this is held in for a few seconds the ice maker should start a cycle. Page 22-25 explain more on ice maker operation. Page 37-38 shows you how to take ice maker out and test components on ice maker.

Hi. I have attached the service manual for your unit. Look at page 125. It gives all the instructions on how to disassemble the dispenser. Let me know if you need any further assistance.

Hi. Check the arm on the ice maker. Once the ice fills in the bucket the arm should rest on the ice and not come all the way back down. This shuts the ice maker off until the level of ice goes down causing the arm to drop back down. If the arm is in the off position and it is still making ice then you have a bad ice maker. The most common reason for low water pressure would be a clog in the valve that feeds the water line to the refrigerator. If you water supply is low at the dispenser then it most likely is at the ice maker as well, which could be causing your ice maker issues. Small or hollow cubes are signs of low water pressure to the ice maker. A water filter that has not been replaced can cause low water pressure, as well as a clogged inlet valve.

Hi. Please double check that model number. Nothing pulls up when I search that model number or even a partial number. Is this an older unit? On some models the insulation may be serviceable and others may not. The insulation could no longer be available. With the correct model number I will be able to find out for you.

HI. The fill tube for your ice make can be freezing up for a couple of different reasons. Low or slow water pressure can cause the valve to not close all the way which causes a slow drip to the ice maker which freezes up the fill tube. So make sure you have good water pressure. If so I would replace your valve. If warm air is getting into the freezer condensation can build up in the fill tube and cause this as well. Make sure door seals are sealing good and warm humid air is not able to enter anywhere else. I have attached a video on replacing the valve. Just let me know if you need any further assistance.

See video links
https://www.appliancevideo.com/page/2/?s=+not+dispensing+ice&cat&tag&post_type%5B0%5D=post&post_type%5B1%5D=premiumvideos&post_type%5B2%5D=fromthefield&post_type%5B3%5D=embdvideo

I think you have have a bad micro dispenser switch or auger motor issue.

See video link
https://www.appliancevideo.com/?cat=&s=lg+washer+no+drain&post_type%5B%5D=post&post_type%5B%5D=premiumvideos&post_type%5B%5D=fromthefield&post_type%5B%5D=embdvideo
Is the pump running? If it is I suspect bad pump/ loose impeller
The appliances made overseas often switch their components on and off through the neutral only, everything is hot, so you may have a bad pump driver through the control board or bad wire. Most likely the main board.

See video link
https://www.appliancevideo.com/maytag-pavt234aww-washer-diagnostic-repair-not-completely-spinning-out-loud-noise-at-end-of-spin/

DIAGNOSTIC TEST
Entry modes:
n Universal mode across all products using a sequence
of any three buttons. It displays error history prior to entry
into service diagnostic.
Operation modes:
n Display of the error states that have been recorded
by the washer.
n Run through of an automated test.
n Clearing of error codes.
Starting Service History Mode & Diagnostic Test:
NOTE: The washer must be empty and the control must be
in the OFF state before pressing the touch-pad sequence to
start the test.
1. Close the door.
2. Select any three different keys (except POWER).
Individually press these in a sequence of 1, 2, 3 and then
repeat this sequence two more times. This sequence must
be completed within 8 seconds of the first key press.
These three keys are referred to the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd keys,
based on the order pressed.

NOTES:
After the washer displays the first error, additional presses
of the 3rd key will advance through the errors from newest
to oldest. After clearing the error codes, service diagnostics
shows 88 in the display (on models with a display) or WASH
LED remains on (on models without a display) until diagnostic
is exited or any other mode is activated. Diagnostic mode
can be exited by pressing and holding the 1st key for 5
seconds OR by pressing POWER. After the diagnostic test
has finished, unplug washer or disconnect power cord
and wait for 15 seconds. Then plug in washer or reconnect
power.
NOTES :

1. Upon entry into service diagnostics, the console will beep
   (if available) and all console LED lights will turn on for
   5 seconds.
2. Any error codes will be displayed in the Estimated Time
   Remaining display. If there are no error codes stored,
   88 will be displayed. On models without a display, the
   WASH LED will flash to indicate the error code. If there
   are no error codes stored, the WASH LED remains on.
   NOTE: This program recalls the most recent error code first.

3. After entry into service diagnostics using the 1st, 2nd, and
   3rd keys, each of these keys will have unique functions
   regarding service diagnostics as detailed in the following

4. Check that the washer is plugged into a working outlet and for blown fuses.

5. Verify that the plug doesn’t have two adapters attached to it.
6. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
7. Disconnect green connector (IF2) from the CCU.
8. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
9. Check that there is voltage of 120v at the CCU terminals (IF2).
10. If no voltage is observed, unplug washer or disconnect power.
11. Check that the connections of the power cord to the line filter
    (white-neutral/black-line) and to the CCU (IF2) are not broken
    or with wires detached.
12. Check continuity from the RFI filter connector to the CCU
    (IF2 cavity connector).
13. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
14. Check for power going to Central Control Unit (CCU) by listening for a
    click in the CCU when unit is plugged in. If no click, replace CCU.
15. Check the touch-pad/LED assembly by selecting different cycles and
    changing the modifiers and options available to confirm the
    touch-pad/LED assembly is responding.
16. Verify washer operation by running a Service History Mode & Diagnostic

Hi. I would check your belt switch as well as the hi limit t-stat and fuse on the burner tube. Also, the thermistor. Does this unit give an error codes?  I have attached many Samsung dryer repair videos.

Hi. The F11 error code is a communication error code between your CCU and MCU. If the CCU did not fix the issue you either have a bad wire connection or a bad MCU. I have attached a video on the F11 error code.

Hi. We need to find out why the freezer is not as cold as it should be. This will cause the ice maker to not make ice if the temperature is not cold enough. This could also cause the leak that is coming from the ice maker. The temperature should be about 0-5 deg in the freezer. What is your temp in the freezer? In both sections? Make sure your evaporator fan motor is running and that your frost pattern is good.

Hi. It does sound like it could be the MCU. It could also be the Main control board or the motor itself. DO you have the tech sheet on this unit? Have you put it into a diagnostic mode or got any error codes? I have attached a tech sheet. It may not be for your exact model. Use it to see if you can get into the diagnostic mode or look at any error codes with it. That is what I recommend starting with.

Hi. I’m surprised you are still having an issue after replacing the parts you replaced. I have attached a link to the service guide your unit. Go to page 217. There it has some information on other things that can cause your issue like the damper assembly or the evaporator fan motor not running. I have also attached the tech sheet as well. Take a look at this. You can put the unit into diagnostic mode and check to see if there are any stored error codes. Let me know what you find out.

Hi. Does the unit have a constant squeak in spin or agitation. or is the squeak only when the basket stops spinning and comes to a stop? If a constant squeak it could be a lot of things, but I would first suspect and check the drain pump bearing. IF the squeak occurs when the unit comes to a stop it is most likely the brake that needs replaced.  Worn belts will cause the unit to not spin properly and leave the clothes wet.