I recommend replacing the gas coils on this unit. See parts and video links below.

Hi. You should not have to pull this unit out to access anything. Everything can be accessed from the front of the unit. This is a dual evaporator with a single compressor. With both sections not cooling the first things I would check are, if the compressor, evaporator fans, and condenser fans are running. The condenser fan and compressor are located under the grill at the top of the unit. Also, the condenser is up there as well. Check that the condenser is not dirty or clogged. It may just need to be cleaned. If everything is working properly, the next thing to check would be the frost pattern on the evaporator, or your refrigerant pressures to see if you have a sealed system issue. You could be low on refrigerant or have a faulty compressor or restriction. Let me know if you need further assistance. I have attached a couple repair videos on Viking refrigerators for you. They are not for the same model you are working on.

Hi. This sounds like a weak igniter and is very common. The igniter will get weak over time. IT will come on and glow but no gas will come out. The igniter has to draw enough amps to open the gas valve and when an igniter gets weak it does not draw enough amps and then you do not get any gas to ignite. Does the unit still broil? The broil is usually a separate igniter and burn tube. IF so this is a good indicating that the issue is the bake igniter and not a gas valve or other issue. I have attached a video that shows you a weak igniter.

I had the same issues with the same model. I got a screw driver, angled pick, and steamer check for piece of felt from the “guide Assembly” part number DC97-12747A. This felt piece was restricting the water flow from dispenser into the tub.
It appears the outer tubs do need to be separated to replaced the “guide assembly”. I think this will solve your issue.

I would start by checking the leveling switch.

The MCU might be your problem. It is powered as soon as the door locks and the dispenser motor shifts to pre-wash position. Can you successfully make the unit go into spin thru diagnostics?

We have had probably close to a hundred of these freeze up. We also move the fill line on the other side of the wires so it will stay away from the evaporator. We also take a piece of the clear plastic tubing about two sizes bigger and slide it over the fill tube all the way up to the back wall. This has been taking care of the problem. See video links on frozen water line. https://www.appliancevideo.com/?cat=&s=frozen+water+line&post_type%5B%5D=post&post_type%5B%5D=premiumvideos&post_type%5B%5D=fromthefield&post_type%5B%5D=embdvideo

Hi. I have the tech sheet pulled up on your unit. Sounds like you have done everything pertaining to those error codes. These error codes will usually come up on the display, if its a digital one, when the unit recognizes them in the cycle. Has the cust seen theses stored error codes? Which one was most recent? If they haven’t seen the error codes and the issue is just that the unit stops mid cycle and the start button flashes, we could have a control issue ( which is the timer) or a door switch/ latch issue. Check that the door switch is locking and closing properly. If not this could be the reason why the washer seems to pause on its own waiting for the start button to be pressed again. If its not the door latch switch then you could have a bad control board causing this. One thing to check with the error codes you have is the pressure switch and pressure hose. They do not seem like they are the issue since it fills and drains fine. Make sure there is not a siphon issue. That the drain pipe is not down into a stand pipe very far or laying on the ground which will cause water to drain as it is filling the 2nd time the unit tries to fill with water. Let me know if you need any further assistance.

Hi Todd. This unit has a diverter motor. It washes one section at a time. It switches back and forth for top and bottom racks. Check the removable filter under the bottom spay arm. Make sure its hooked up to and getting hot water. This unit will pulsate the motor and drain pump on and off a few times when each one stats up or if you open and close the door. Make sure the spray arm holes are not built up with debris causing then from rotating. If you have any question about it getting enough water or not you can add water with a cup to fill it up some more and see if it makes a difference. The tech sheet on this one should be attached to the back side of the toe panel. It has a diagnostic mode that you can run a test and check for error codes. Let me know what you find out.

No, that was a botched attempt at a fix. No silicone is needed when replacing the drain pump, as long as you include the o-ring seal. No sealant used during assembly. I have also seen a hairline crack in the sump housing that the pump mounts to. This usually happens when Professor Installer uses a dolly under the unit, etc. Since they originally silicone the devil out of it, lets assume it is a housing problem. Here are some videos on pump leaks https://www.appliancevideo.com/?cat=&s=dishwasher+pump+leak+&post_type%5B%5D=post&post_type%5B%5D=premiumvideos&post_type%5B%5D=fromthefield&post_type%5B%5D=embdvideo

Could possibly be a result of a bad evaporator. fan motor or defrost thermostat staying closed to long. Had an new fan motor, 120V this week that would on occasion run at a low speed and cause frost over everything in freezer and of course fresh foods warm. The lack of airflow will cause frost on all items in freezer. Frustrating, because one would “assume” that it could not be the new part creating a new problem! Also replaced a brand new faulty WP ice maker this week that never harvested the ice after mold was filled with water, so WP has been a sore spot for me, cost me especially with the fan motor issue because of the problem being so erratic. Could also be drain tube water evaporating out and outside humid air migrating in.same thing can happen with a toilet when left for long time, water evaporates, leaving an open pipe..
My friend use to put oil on top of the water to stop the evaporation.
Try small amount of cooking oil in drain to stop evaporation if the drain has a trap built in..
Here are some ice maker video suggestions . https://www.appliancevideo.com/?cat=&s=ice+maker+no+ice&post_type%5B%5D=post&post_type%5B%5D=premiumvideos&post_type%5B%5D=fromthefield&post_type%5B%5D=embdvideo

Looks like the processor on the U/I is bad….I would replace the user interface to correct your issue. See video link below for a videos on your model. https://www.appliancevideo.com/appliances/samsung-rf263teaesr-refrigerator/

Self Diagnosis: Press both buttons (Energy
Saver– Alarm) simultaneously (No sound
when both buttons are pressed at the same
time) ‟til the display quits blinking and
beeps, 8-12 seconds, then release and read
Fault Codes.
This will also cancel the Fault Mode created
Error Items LED TROUBLE TESTING
I/M-SENSOR (R on Tw in
I/M units)
Ice Maker Sensor Error- open or short-circuit, connector failure. Cause is
also a temperature reading > 122°or < -58 ° F
The voltage at MAIN PCB Sensor
betw een 4.5V~1.0V
R-SENSOR
Refrigerator Room Sensor Error- open or short-circuit, connector failure.
Cause is also a temperature reading > 122°or < -58 ° F.
The voltage at MAIN PCB Sensor
betw een 4.5V~1.0V
DEFROST SENSOR OF R
ROOM
Ref. Defrost Sensor Error- open or short-circuit, connector failure. Cause is
also a temperature reading > 122°or < -58 ° F
The voltage at MAIN PCB Sensor
betw een 4.5V~1.0V
R-FAN ERROR This error indicates the Refrigerator Evap Fan is not spinning at the correct
RPM or the fan feedback line is open.
Fan voltage at MAIN PCB shall be
betw een 7V~12V
I/M FUNCTION ERROR(R
on Tw in I/M)
This error indicates the Ice tray has not returned to level after an ice harvest.
The error is displayed after three failed attempts. Replace I/M
COOL SELECT ZONE
SENSOR
Cool Select Zone Sensor Error- open or short-circuit, connector failure.
Cause is also a temperature reading > 122°or < -58 ° F
The voltage at MAIN PCB Sensor
betw een 4.5V~1.0V
R-DEFROSTING ERROR Refrigerator Room defrost heater- open or short-circuit, connector failure, or
defective temperature fuse/bi-metal. Defrost on over 80 minutes
Disconnect defrost connector
from PCB, check resistance
PANTRY-DAMPERHEATER
ERROR
Sensor system in Pantry Room errors Disconnect heater connector
from PCB, check resistance
PANTRY-SENSOR ERROR CR Room Sensor Error- This can be an open or short-circuit, contact failure.
Cause is also a temperature reading > 122°or < -58 ° F.
The voltage of MAIN PCB Sensor
betw een 4.5V~1.0V
I/M-SENSOR (F on Tw in
I/M units)
Ice Maker Sensor Error- open or short-circuit, connector failure. Cause is
also a temperature reading > 122°or < -58 ° F
The voltage at MAIN PCB Sensor
betw een 4.5V~1.0V
I/M FUNCTION ERROR(F
on Tw in I/M)
This error indicates the Ice tray has not returned to level after an ice harvest.
The error is displayed after three failed attempts.
Replace I/M
WATER HEATER ERROR Error is displayed w hen the w ater reservoir tank heater is open or shorted
Disconnect heater connector
from PCB, check resistance
EXT-SENSOR Ambient Temp. Sensor Error- open or short-circuit, connector failure. Cause
is also a temperature reading > 122°or < -58 ° F
The voltage at MAIN PCB Sensor
betw een 4.5V~1.0V
F-SENSOR
Freezer Compartment Sensor Error- open or short-circuit, connector failure.
Cause is also a temperature reading > 122°or < -58 ° F
The voltage at MAIN PCB Sensor
betw een 4.5V~1.0V
F-DEF-SENSOR Freezer Room Defrost Sensor Error- open or short-circuit, connector failure.
Cause is also a temperature reading > 122°or < -58 ° F
The voltage at MAIN PCB Sensor
betw een 4.5V~1.0V
F-FAN ERROR
This error indicates the Freezer Evap. Fan is not spinning at the correct RPM
or the fan feedback line is open.
Fan voltage at MAIN PCB shall be
betw een 7V~12V
C-FAN ERROR This error indicates the Condenser Fan is not spinning at the correct RPM or
the fan feedback line is open.
Fan voltage at MAIN PCB shall be
betw een 7V~12V
FRENCH DOOR ICE ROOM
SENSOR
Ice Room Sensor Error- open or short-circuit, connector failure. Cause is also
a temperature reading > 122°or < -58 ° F
The voltage at MAIN PCB Sensor
betw een 4.5V~1.0V
F-DEFROSTING ERROR
Freezer defrosting heater- open or short-circuit, connector failure, or
defective temperature fuse/bi-metal. Defrost on for over 80 minutes
Disconnect defrost connector
from PCB, check resistance
FRENCH DOOR ICE ROOM
FAN ERROR
This error indicates the Ice Room Compartment Evap. Fan is not spinning at
the correct RPM or the fan feedback line is open.
Fan voltage at MAIN PCB shall be
betw een 7V~12V
ICE PIPE HEATER ERROR Error is displayed w hen the ice maker fill pipe heater is open or shorted. Replace Fill Tube Ass’y
Uart ERROR
COMMUNICATION
This error is not applicable, if the error is detected during diagnostic testing
please ignore it.
No Repair Necessary
L↔M ERROR
COMMUNICATION
Communication error w ithin the Main PCB Replace main PCB
P↔M ERROR
COMMUNICATION Communication betw een the Main PCB and Keypad
Check w iring in door & cabinet,
Panel PCB, Main PCB
Samsung ‘Refrigerator’ Diagnostic Code Quick Guide

tsRF268AB

On your exact model GD22DQXFN00 we do not have a sealed system video. But we do have the dual evaporator Samsung . See link below. Hope this hjelps

Some of the Samsung boxes have a duckbill like the Maytag/whirlpool bottom freezer and may not steam out completely.
If having a reoccurring problem with ice buildup remove the rear panel and check the drain / drains.
Add a longer heat sink to the fresh food evaporator heater if having an ice buildup in fresh food drain hole.
In this case I have a turkey baster in my tool bag and I did flush it with hot water after steaming it.
Samsung was doing that also. Does the Whirlpool kit (W10619951) to replace the duck bill, work also on the Samsung?

Take a look at the link below. By description I come up with the same part number, however if you look at #275 the tubing for the front simmering burner shows as WB28X10067.

http://lookup.appliancevideo.com/lookup/193149/1361655

If you still have your owners manual take a look and see how they describe the burner you are looking at, I wonder if how they describe the burner is different than how you describe it, and that is what is causing the confusion. I checked w/ our vendors they do not see any part# changes from the original numbers to where the design may have been changed over time. The link below is a image of the Front simmer burner tube, the bends and the angels are pretty distinct. I would try and match up the part you need by the image if the description is getting you an incorrect part.

If that still does not work you can try contacting GE directly ( http://www.geappliances.com/ ) and see if they have any issues on file for you unit by model & serial number and by part number.

Good luck and let us know. 🙂

Is the unit overfilling?
Not completely draining, and then refilling.
Spray arm being blocked?
What type of detergent is the customer using?
I have found the tub lip in front bowed, this will cause a leak.
Is your door clearing the cabinet sides okay?
Also check your plastic strips on the sides. They can keep the door from sealing correctly.
Had one that the bottom spray arm had cracks in it and would squirt water
sideways when under pressure.
We also have seen them a lot where the holes in the spray arm are stopped up with food stuffs.
I find when we get really busy I tend to over think problems and miss the simple.
I have been doing that a lot here lately with an early summer rush.

Try cleaning clogged filter cup in the tub to pump hose. I have had several with the same issue.

HI. The clicking you heard could be the start device( overload and relay) for the compressor going out. The compressor will try to start but just hums and then you will hear a click. This can be caused by bad start components or if the compressor is overheating, either from a condenser fan motor not running or dirty condenser coils. The only other thing that I am thinking could be at fault is the thermostat. I just had the same thing happen on this same thermostat in a side by side the other day. They said temps were not correct. I went out and everything was running perfect. They called a couple days later and when I got there the unit was very warm and not running. I tapped on the thermostat and it came back on and started running. Take a look at the video I attached.

I recommend checking to see if there is debris in the sump assembly and if so remove the debris and preform an operation test.

I recommend replacing the basket hub on this unit.See parts and video links below.