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DC error occurs when a Samsung washer is unable to spin due to an unbalanced load. In the same manner as to when the UE error occurs, redistribute the items inside the washer and press the Start/Pause button to clear this error. I have seen many of these where the drum also separates. Check the bottom of the spin basket closely to make sure it is not separating where the bottom meets the side wall. If this is okay, then I would suspect the suspension rods. I have had quite a few fail. If the spin basket is separating, you would need to replace it. Most of them had a 3 year warranty and possibly longer.

Hi. I have attached a video that shows how to enter diagnostic mode this style washer.

Hi. Will you double check that model number for me. It is not showing up as a valid model number. Some common things to check would be if the customer is using too much soap or not using HE soap. IF the unit is over sudsing, add some vinegar or a tablespoon of salt to a cycle with no clothes and let it run through. this will get rid of suds. Advise cust. to use the extra rinse option on the washer as well.

Yes it sounds like a bad transmission. As long as the wax motor on that shifter is working properly. IS it loud in spin? IF so you do have a bad transmission. I have found a website with parts break down on this unit for you.I have also found the service manual on this unit. I have attached the link. IT should help you with the tub seal replacement as well.

Hi. The tech sheet does not specify a amp draw that the grid cutter should have. .8 amps seems low to me. The resistance of the grid should be 20 ohms. You can also check for voltage going to the grid I attached a video on the grid cutter for you. It talks about diagnosing a bad grid as well as replacing it.

Hi. I am not able to pull this model number up in any of my go to parts break down sites. I did pull it up on a search, so it does appear to be a good model number. Will you just double check your model number for me and in the mean time I will continue looking up any info I can on this.

I recommend replacing the bake ignitor on this unit. See parts and video links below.

I recommend replacing the water valve on this unit. See parts and video links below.

I recommend replacing the main control board on this unit.

I recommend replacing the PCB on this unit.

I recommend replacing the drive cam assembly and drive belt on this unit. See parts links below

You need to remove the front cover and on the lower right hand corner you will find a technician diagnostic sheet. Run through the diagnostics and let me know what codes you get the error codes. Here are Samsung diagnostic video links to help with your repair. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gsvye6sfO88

Generally the rumbling noise is the rear bearing. Which would be the rear half of the outer tub. From the front lift up on the inner basket and you can tell if the spinner basket (spider) is damaged before pricing job.
I have replaced only the bearing itself (available from frontloadbearings.com).
If it was caused by moving it without the shipping bolts it would have stretched the springs or possibly broken the shocks I don’t believe it could damage the bearing. If a spinner support got cracked or broken, it might have been exacerbated by the machine not being properly shipped.You should not replace the spinner unless you are prepared to do the seal for the tub as well. Those bearings may have been compromised as well, it is just a matter of time before they will know. When the spinner shaft is removed, bearing wear will show up as small lines on the stainless shaft. If the support struts and springs are OK, you would be better off condemning the machine if the spinner/tub seal is the only explanation. https://www.appliancevideo.com/premium/ge-gtws8650d0ws-washer-washer-will-not-drain-all-the-way-recirculation-pump/

Hi. Yes the drain pump most likely took out the control board if it was froze up or leaking water. A power surge or other electrical shorts or failures in the unit could take out the board but the drain pump is the most common. The new drain pump kit comes with a fuse and instructions to install it near the control board so that if the drain pump fails again it will blow the fuse and not take out the board. I would install both the board and the drain pump. Repair Video link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxsKBoGUIFE

Being this is a basic unit, I wonder how much the customer likes the water in the door. What I am getting at is we have taken a dremel tool and cut a hole on the inside of the lower freezer door and removed the insulation. Then the 5/16″ tubing is revealed and you can use a john guess fitting to repair it. We just take an ice container like the ones used in the 11293213 kits, cut a piece of plastic to fit, replace the insulation with new, and silicone the piece of plastic in place. Sometimes you will need to install screws to make the piece of plastic fit correctly but as long as you seal it up it will be . Its on the bottom of the door so most customers don’t mind this as long as they have the water through the door fully functioning.

Ahhhh, ok. The surge explains why its so weird. It probably fried the motor/inverter too. Surges usually take out just the boards but its hard to say what all could have been damaged. Typically the main control may be the only one affected, but it looks like it damaged board boards. I don’t know if it is worth it for you to install the motor and hope for the best or cut your losses and hopefully return the main board and get your money back on it. Attached is a link to the part

Yes. For the most part igniters are universal. They usually give you wire nuts with a lot of igniter so you can replace many different types that have different plugs this way. Just make sure the metal cage around the igniter is the same or you can use the old one and put it onto the new. I have never heard of cleaning an igniter, unless your talking about the wire terminals if they were dirty or corroded.

Ok. The next thing we need to check is the pressure switch and hose. I have attached a video to show you, but we wont need to go as far. Gain access to the pressure switch. remove the pressure hose from the switch. Now turn the unit back on and try to start a cycle. Let me know if it start filling with water now.

Hi. I have seen uneven lint build up on the blower wheel or in the blower housing cause this issue on this style dryer before. Other than that it could really be many different things. The best way to approach this would be to take the dryer apart and just check everything out until you find what the issue is. Take the top and front panels off so you can look inside while its running and see if you can track down where the noise and vibration is coming from. Being on a pedestal can make things worse for vibration, but mainly for the washers. Make sure its level. Another possibility would be a drum that is not perfectly round. Help videos for Samsung dryers https://www.appliancevideo.com/?cat=&find=samsung+dryer+&post_type%5B%5D=post&post_type%5B%5D=premiumvideos&post_type%5B%5D=fromthefield&post_type%5B%5D=embdvideo

The first one is tricky you need the piece that the cam attaches to part on lg look up is 233f or 233e lh and rh strip the cam is attached to the top of the strip take the cover off with a putty knife and grab the strip in the center and pull it off door. when you reattach the cam and holder you have to spring load the spring that is on the cam and tape it back in the door channel. don’t try to replace the cam only you’ll go nuts. Here are repair videos link. https://www.appliancevideo.com/appliances/lg-lfc28768st-refrigerator/