All Answers

Just opinion from personal experiences. I have dealt with probably a double hand full of escalated issues over the years, especially on clear ice machines where the reverse osmosis system did have a negative effect on optimal ice production. On more than one case we would go through a couple of product exchanges before convincing home owner/ builder/ plumber to take the machine off the Reverse osmosis system and finally when they did low and behold the machine would start making ice and the intermittent issues would go away. That being said the manufacturers of the Reverse osmosis systems have come a long way with their technology / pressure regulation over the past few years.

Some argue and I tend to agree clear ice machines don’t need filtration on the water supply in most cases. The very nature of how they make ice separates most of the impurities and flushes them down the drain hence the label clear ice.

Again from my experience the Reverse osmosis issues seemed to be more prevalent in the clear ice machines than the traditional crescent cube ice maker that reside in most refrigerators.

I have also run across flow pressure issue and volume issue on ice machines where needle/ saddle / piercing valves are used to create a water supply to them instead of having a dedicated water supply plumbed to the machine.

Hope that helps.

They are listed as obsolete. We even had our F&P DSM looking for one. Try looking at http://www.savemoreonparts.com website

We have seen this a few times and ended up using a capacitor from Grainger part # 6FLP2 100mfd 370 volt cap, I could not find the original locally or otherwise, But I installed it and the compressor started up and had great amprege. Here are LG repair videos link. https://www.appliancevideo.com/appliances/lg-lfc28768st-refrigerator/

I have attached a link to a couple videos on your lid switch. It also, shows how to gain access to the motor/ inverter. It should be the same on your washer. Check out the videos and see if this seems like the issue you are having and let me know. We can test your lid switch at the inverter board. The tech sheet we have been referring to may be slightly different than your exact model since it covers many different models, as we have found out with the connectors on your control board.

There is a black plastic spring assembly on the side rail that springs shut as you close the door.That is probably broke and the whole rail will need replacing. same part for both sides. # W10120018. If that does not correct it look at the gears they have three teeth that are just slightly indented and have to line up on both sides as you start them on the track at the front edge. Also that rear axle can be one notch off and give you headaches. Takes some practice and patience to get that all lined up again. We have been avoiding pulling out that drawer whenever we can. When replacing the drain update, I have been placing unit into defrost cycle when arriving, pulling out the fridge, removing the old duck bill tube, steaming up into freezer drain until steam is appearing in freezer. Once that is clear, install the new drain kit and let the heater take care of the rest. I do pull the basket at least to remove the ice build up from freezer floor or chip out if there is enough room with plastic putty knife.

You can’t replace it. it’s in the insulation. You have to use a blow dryer to melt the ice in the line but be very careful not to get the plastic pieces too hot or you can wreck the whole door. GE does make a heater kit. but only for Metal liners.
We have had some luck with telling the customer to leave the dispenser light on all night with the freezer set at a warmer temp. When the unit hasn’t been used a lot. Owners out of town a few weeks or whatever.
Our area has a lot of out of state owners, second homes. So we see this problem a good bit. Shoot some steam up in there from the front. Then steam at the inside panel of the door liner directly behind the chute. I have had customers here who solved the problem by sticking a 1/4″ section of hard foam insulation pad (Home Depot- $4.00) over the area. It kept the airflow from freezing the area permanently. Beats replacing the door and making a series of callbacks. I tried it, and had no further complaints. I wiped the area with an alcohol swab to clean the plastic, dried it with a paper towel, then used an aerosol adhesive spray which is available at any hardware or A/C supply to adhere the pad.
Repair videos link on water dispenser issues. https://www.appliancevideo.com/?cat=&find=frozen+water+dispenser&post_type%5B%5D=post&post_type%5B%5D=premiumvideos&post_type%5B%5D=fromthefield&post_type%5B%5D=embdvideo

OK. Here is your tech sheet for your unit. click download and then you can open the tech sheet.

No problem. Here is a link for the tech sheet on this unit.

HI. Yes, I am thinking the same thing. Sounds like you have weak gas coils. Typically when gas coils start to get weak, they will work when they are cold. So they will work when you first start the dryer after it has not been used recently. As the gas coils heat up the get weak and fail. This could be after a couple cycles at first and it progressively get worse to where you may get a couple mins of heat until they get weak and fail. When they do fail or not work, what happens is the igniter will come on and go back off with out any gas coming out, so no flame. This is the most common thing I see with your symptom. Usually the coils are the only part to cause an intermittent heat issue unless there is something very unusual happening. One thing to check as well is the timer. I have seen some timers that intermittently will cause no heat. While the unit is heating wiggle the timer knob back and forth and see if you heat cuts out. Attached are some videos on gas coils.

Has anyone looked at the lines from the water valve? I had a similar problem with a Kenmore (LG built) where the owner had tried to repair the lines and switched them.I replaced the lines and got a call back. My partner noticed water on the floor from dispenser but no water in IM. I went back and switched the lines. working okay now.I also had a had a main board do that Long ago.

Here is a video link that may help solve your issue. https://www.appliancevideo.com/premium/kitchenaid-kers505xbl-stove-oven-will-not-heat-on-broil-broil-element-top-oven/

I think the ice maker is not the problem. It could be airflow across the ice maker , as well as a sticking defrost terminator on the evaporator. You may have been fortunate enough to see 0ºF when you looked, but with a temp logger, you can see what happens during a 5-day span. This might be beneficial to rule out sealed system or other defrosting issues. Are you confident that the unit has a good frost pattern on the evaporator? Several things can mask this problem for you.
For future reference, try the W10190965 ice maker instead of the one they suggested (D7824706Q). It’s also a bare-bones ice maker that is generally less expensive. I still feel like it’s something other than the ice maker.

I recommend replacing the drive cam assembly and drive belt on this unit. very common issue with this model. See parts and video links below.

I would start with the harness here is the part number for the harness DA96-00640A . We usually replace the entire rail assembly as there are some plastic mounts and things that tend to break when installing.

The part number for the rail assembly is : DA97-08809C

I recommend replacing the drain pump with an in line fuse.

Good to know did you try to run manual test mode first? I had one the other day that ran great in test mode but in regular cycles would hum. Seemed it was trying to go both direction at once? Controls failed by error code and testing
They did not want to spend 300 for new board install. I also had two that were trying to go both ways at once. Its very easy to test if board is bad.
unplug capacitor. Remove wire harness from motor and test White & Red should be 120v for Clockwise
and White and Yellow for counterclockwise. But if you have voltage on both at both White & Red and White & Yellow
at the same time then your board is bad. It really is trying to go both ways at once! Sometimes it will actually spin slowly
while growling loudly because the two winding are fighting cw & cow directions.

You can also get a refurbished board from Core Centric for cheap and they will gladly return it even if it was installed.

I recommend clearing any debris out of the tub air dome and then replacing the pressure hose.Its very common to have them get plugged.

Likely the washer is not “sensing” the motor movement. More likely to be a bad shift actuator, which also has the rpm sensor built into it. Have not had a bad board on one of these yet or lid lock unless someone forced the lid open. “Flashing lid” usually means there is an error sensed.

In most cases this issue can be rectified with the installation of a new drain pump.

I recommend replacing the bake ignitor on this unit. See parts and video links below.