All Answers

95% of the time the pressure switch takes care of this problem, the other 5% ends up being the main control board. Always check the drain pump first, and that the pressure hose is clear. If that is all good, pressure switch next. In rare cases you will need the board which should be your fix. I have had a couple washers with the same codes, and both times the error code came up almost immediately after starting machine in the fill cycle (main control board). Any time you replace a control part on these washers, it is a good idea to run it thru the Calibration cycle. In most instances, placing it in the spin cycle while it is empty will suffice.
The pump can be tricky to diagnose, however it is designed to drain a full tub (for Cabrio 5-7 gallons), in under 30 seconds. If the impeller has become loose on the shaft, it may appear to drain, but not at peak efficiency. The impeller should have absolutely no play in it when spun. It should jump in increments only with no back and forth motion.

I recommend installing a new dispenser switch bracket on this unit. See parts and video links below.

What is the error message you are getting ? Here is a video link of a defrost issue for Samsung refrigerator. https://www.appliancevideo.com/samsung-rs253bawwxaa-refrigerator-repair-frost-in-the-fresh-food-section-water-drain-tray/

I recommend removing the drain pump on the unit and checking it for debris then trying again. If this does not rectify the issue the unit most likely needs a new drain pump.

I recommend replacing the heating element on this unit. See parts and video links below.

I don’t think this issue is isolated, and the relationship between ERC’s and ribbon connectors have long been an issue. If a single capacitors blown on the control that senses the ribbon, it will fault out. Sometimes we do the tests we always do, by disconnecting the ribbon in this case, only to have the ERC show up as defective later. You aren’t the first tech this happened to, but as a rule, I try to at least prepare the customer for such an eventuality. It is disappointing when the first repair does not fix the issue, but we tend to cover the least expensive route first. I would think that Dacor might be open to a courtesy call on behalf of the customer and reduce the part cost.

Wr72x10247 lh glide bucket should be what you need to repair this issue. If you use Rossware, there is a way where every time you have a problem like this the system will remind you the part number. For example, in this particular case you need to create a hot part list file and add it to the sd file. It is an excel spreadsheet and type the model number and the column over you write ” the part for the glide bucket issue is wr14..etc etc”
Next time you run into the same model number and same issue, just type the model number in the orders part form and the system will show you the message.
I use that list a lot .. mainly for parts that I have accumulated through the years and they get used.

HI. On the first unit. I am not having any luck looking up and info or the tech sheet on this unit. Have you gotten the tech sheet out of the unit? Does the unit have any stored error codes? Have you run the unit through a diagnostics test cycle?

On the second unit. I pulled up the tech sheet on this unit and there is no “LG” error code listed. Are you sure it is “LG”? Does the error code come up right away, or in the middle of the cycle?

Let me know,
Thanks, Brian

Here is the tech sheet on your unit. Now you can run the test cycle and see what happens. Its hard to say which one is bad. If you do not get any motor movement I would start with the MCU.

HI. The F11 error code on your unit means a communication error between the CCU and MCU. I have seen this many times before. There is not any way to determine which control board is faulty. It can be either the CCU or MCU or a loose or broken wire between them. 8182695 is the CU and W10756692 is the MCU. Here is what the tech sheet says about the error code.

Communication between the Central Control Unit (CCU)
and the Motor Control Unit (MCU) cannot be sent
correctly.
Possible Causes / Procedure
1. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
2. Check wire harness connections to the MCU, the
motor, and Central Control Unit (CCU).
3. Check the drive system for any worn or failed
components.
4. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
5. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic test or
any cycle.
6. Check the MCU by looking for operations of the drive
motor.
7. Check the drive motor for powered rotations.
8. Check that the serial harness at the MCU is not
mounted upside down. The wires should be to the left
when facing the MCU connectors.

I have attached 2 videos for the MCU and CCU. Not the same unit or parts as yours but it will be the same procedure.

Yes, it sounds like you are testing at the board correctly. You have proper voltage at the board. With proper power to the board and the board not lighting up or responding it sounds like you have a faulty control board. You will need to replace the board. p#WH12X10475. I have attached a link to the part.

Hi. I may be looking at a tech sheet that is slightly different than your model. I have attached the tech sheet below. Look at page 31. It shows the connector I am talking about. Let me know if your set up is different. Yes, we are looking for the incoming plug wires that attach at the board. We need 120v there. IF not, we need to back track to the plug and outlet to see where we are loosing our voltage at.

Hi. The ERR means an error has occurred. You will need to wake the washer by pressing any button, wait 5 seconds and then press and hold start/pause and cancel buttons simultaneously for about 5 seconds and the error code will be displayed. Let me know what that error code is. I am attaching the tech sheet for you on this unit. It explains how to get the error code and what all the error codes mean.

You get no frost at all on your evaporator coils? Is your compressor running?

Not a problem. Just making sure the outlets you plugged the unit into are getting proper power. From the tech sheet I am looking at you will need to put your meter on pin 2 and pin 2 of the J501 connector. They should be the White/ red wire and the red/black wire. You should have 120 v between these two pins.

HI. The pop you hear could have been the GFI tripping which then shuts off power at the outlet. Check to make sure you have proper voltage at the outlet. You should have 120 volts from hot to neutral and from hot to ground. If you have proper voltage at the outlet, the next thing to check would be if you have proper voltage going to the control board.

95 % of the time it is a tied up or open winding in the condenser motor. I recommend replacing the condenser fan motor on this unit. See parts and video links below.

I recommend replacing the control board on this unit. We have run into several control boards this month alone on this specific model.

I recommend replacing the bake element on this unit. See parts and video links below.

I recommend replacing the triple inlet valve on this unit. Very common issue. See parts and video links below.