All Answers

I recommend replacing the control board on this unit. See parts and video links below.

Very common problem is the control board on this unit. See parts and video links below.

I recommend replacing the drain impeller and seal kit on this unit.

i recommend checking to see if there is a block in the water line. If so remove the debris.If this does not correct the issue i recommend replacing the water line and saddle valve.See parts and video links below.

I recommend replacing the bake element on this unit. See parts and video links below.

This unit most likely has a bad electronic control. I recommend replacing the electronic control then calibrating the unit.

I recommend replacing the idler pulley on this unit.See parts and video links below.

I see the socket for the lamps degrading, despite the glass cover. I suppose steam (and leaving the door open a lot), has a way of causing this. I would replace the light socket.

I see that the link you provided is not pulling the video up. I have tried myself on the website by searching for 511 videos and the both came up and worked. I have attached links for the 2 -511 videos we have. These video links worked for me. Try them and see it you are able to view the videos. Let me know weather or not you can view the videos.

HI. If the buttons lights are the issue then it looks like you will need p#AGL33667106- control panel assembly If the display There is also a display board of p# EBR72910203. Take a look at the links I have provided that shows pictures of each part. I can not tell if the display board has any lights on it. It looks like the lighting would be on the control panel. Tske a look at your unit. You may need to take it apart to gain access to these parts. Which ever part has the lights on it that is giving you trouble is the part you need to replace. I have not seen this exact model you have, but have replaced many control panels on many different makes and modes of dishwasher to fix this issue. I find that 95% of the time its the control panel and not the control board as long as the panel is what has the lights on it that is giving you the trouble. There is not a good way to test this with a meter.

It cuts off at 38 mins on time dry. Is that on a 40 min time dry cycle? That is tough with it not pulling up any error codes. I wouldn’t think the motor at this point since it does chime, like it is done with the cycle. I would check your thermistor. I also, think that the heat element could be causing this as well. Especially if this issue was not happening prior to the element going out. Try running the dryer on a cycle with no heat and see if it still cuts off after 2 mins. Possibly a control board issue. Attached are our Samsung dryer repair videos. They may help you as well.

Sorry. I responded to this a few days ago, but it never came through. The part number(2411996363) you provided for the main control board on the bottom if the unit, that is accessed through the front is not valid. The number I provided in my first answer of 241996361 shows to be the correct one. If you have power to this main control board, the next thing I would check and suspect to be your issue is the refrigerator control, 242048309, located on the door when you open it. Looks like power is sent to this board and then this board controls the cooling operation and maybe more. Here is also a link to the tech sheet on this unit. It has the diagnostic information and wiring schematics.

Hi. Did you try a timed dry cycle to see if it will run longer? The bad heat element could be the cause of this. On the sensor dry cycles with out any clothes in the unit it will recognize this or that its not heating and shut down after a short time. Have you put the new element in and tried it yet? You can also run it through diagnostic mode and see if there are any error codes. I have attached a link to the tech sheet for you and a link for the element repair video.

HI. They are showing up? OR are they not showing up? Are you looking for Subzero model 511 videos? I have attached a link to 2 videos we have on this model and a separate link for some other Subzero refrigerators. Let me know if you need anything else.

Hi. Was 241996361 the control board you replaced, that is located on the bottom of the unit? Your still not getting any lights, display or anything? It looks the the User interface is located on the Left door when you open it. Is this correct? The main board on the bottom controls most everything. That’s strange that it still has no lights or anything if this is the board you replaced. Let me know.

Hi. You are missing the last 2 digits of your model number. I find the issue is most likely with your ice maker. Wire harness is not common. I have replaced many of these ice makers and only a couple of the boards for this issue. When I have had a bad board it was causing the ice maker to not operate at all. Put your meter leads on your ice maker water valve and cycle the ice maker. Look at your meter as the ice maker runs through the cycle and see if it sends 120v to the valve at the point it should be filling with water. I am looking at the tech sheet on here and it is hard to see. From what I can tell the control board sends power to the ice maker and then the ice maker sends power to the valve to fill. SO your issue would most likely be in the ice maker. Let me know if you need any further assistance after your tests. Also, I have attached our repair videos for this ice maker for you to take a look at.

HI. A power surge will usually damage circuit boards. There are 2 control boards in the back of the unit. They are W10453401- power supply board, or W10589838- control board. The control board(W10589838) controls the lights and ice maker and fans. This sounds like the part you will need. Let me know if you need any further assistance. I have also seen the digital crisper drawer display cause some issues on theses units. They get shorted out and can cause the ice and water to not dispense and the user interface to act up. Check to see if you unit has the digital display for the bottom crisper drawer in the refrigerator. Attached is a repair video.

Hi. There are a few other parts that will cause a microwave to not heat other than the capacitor, magnotron, and diode. The door switches, control board, and transformer are some other parts that will cause the unit to not heat. The best way to diagnose a no heat symptom on a microwave is to get an amp draw of the unit while its running on a heat cycle. A kilowatt meter works great for this. It plugs into the outlet and then you plug the unit into it and it will tell you the amp readings. If your under 2 amps then I would be looking towards the low voltage side which would include the door switches and control board. IF your 3-4 amps then you may have a bad transformer. Between 4-13 amps would be a high voltage side issue, which would include the parts you have already installed or an arcing problem within the wave guide, but that is not very common. Let me know if you need any further assistance.

Hi. I can not find this capacitor on the parts break downs either. Does this part seem to be the OEM orginal part of the unit or does it seem like it has been replaced before with this after market capacitor? Can you get any writing that may be on this part? We can try and cross any numbers on this part to a part number for you.

Hi. We do not have a video for this repair on your specific model, but I have attached 2 videos that show this repair done on similar models. The first one is the same auger motor that your unit has. It has the bottom access panel like you were describing. The second video is for a different auger motor that is taken out of the top. I have also provided a link to the parts break down of your unit. From this it looks like the screws holding the motor in place would be removed from the bottom of the motor like the first video. Take a look and if you need further assistance let me know.