All Answers

HI. A power surge will usually damage circuit boards. There are 2 control boards in the back of the unit. They are W10453401- power supply board, or W10589838- control board. The control board(W10589838) controls the lights and ice maker and fans. This sounds like the part you will need. Let me know if you need any further assistance. I have also seen the digital crisper drawer display cause some issues on theses units. They get shorted out and can cause the ice and water to not dispense and the user interface to act up. Check to see if you unit has the digital display for the bottom crisper drawer in the refrigerator. Attached is a repair video.

Hi. There are a few other parts that will cause a microwave to not heat other than the capacitor, magnotron, and diode. The door switches, control board, and transformer are some other parts that will cause the unit to not heat. The best way to diagnose a no heat symptom on a microwave is to get an amp draw of the unit while its running on a heat cycle. A kilowatt meter works great for this. It plugs into the outlet and then you plug the unit into it and it will tell you the amp readings. If your under 2 amps then I would be looking towards the low voltage side which would include the door switches and control board. IF your 3-4 amps then you may have a bad transformer. Between 4-13 amps would be a high voltage side issue, which would include the parts you have already installed or an arcing problem within the wave guide, but that is not very common. Let me know if you need any further assistance.

Hi. I can not find this capacitor on the parts break downs either. Does this part seem to be the OEM orginal part of the unit or does it seem like it has been replaced before with this after market capacitor? Can you get any writing that may be on this part? We can try and cross any numbers on this part to a part number for you.

Hi. We do not have a video for this repair on your specific model, but I have attached 2 videos that show this repair done on similar models. The first one is the same auger motor that your unit has. It has the bottom access panel like you were describing. The second video is for a different auger motor that is taken out of the top. I have also provided a link to the parts break down of your unit. From this it looks like the screws holding the motor in place would be removed from the bottom of the motor like the first video. Take a look and if you need further assistance let me know.

HI. I’m trying to better understand what is happening. Your first sentence says that the right door pops open when the left door is closed first. How is the right door popping open if it is not already closed? Is the right door closed first and then you close the left door and it causes the right door to pop open? Or is the left door closed first and then when you try to close the right door it does not stay shut? The center divided (mullion) is on the left door. It will flip out when the left door is closed to give the right door seal something to seal against when shut. IF the right door gets shut first then the left, it will cause the right door to pop open. Most units are this way. So, it is recommended that the left door be closed first and then the right door. Please let me know if this did not answer your question.

On the Whirlpool compactor video, we had a engineer here with us making the videos. They now suggest 3/4 of the way full on compactors and are changing the new user manuals to say that. We had to be very specific on the requirements for the videos we made with Whirlpool here. They brought the product to us so we could tape it. We do not get many requests for trash compactors. We have a request form on our site for premium members to request specific products. Here is the link if you would like to request the trash compactor https://www.appliancevideo.com/premium-appliances/ . With over 900,000 views per month to our videos currently get less than one every six months. Sorry we could not be more help.

Matt Ace technician

The most common problems on this unit is the idler roller . See parts and video links below

I recommend checking the bake ignitor on this unit. See parts and video links below.

Hi. I do not see a compressor relay either for this unit. It does not appear that this compressor is and variable speed compressor so it should require 120 volts to run it. Check your voltage going into you control board. Make sure you get 120 volts to the board. IF so then check that the control board is sending out 120 volts to the compressor. Your loosing voltage somewhere. With the boards being replaced already, you could have a wiring issues or do not have proper power coming into to board or at the outlet. You will need to find out where you dropping voltage at. Let me know if you need further assistance.

Hi. It does sound like the door is not shutting all the way. This will allow warm air to enter the unit and created this condensation/ frost on everything. The walls, ceiling, and food will have frost all over. Warm air entering the unit is the only thing that I have seen cause frost like this. The warm air entering could also be preventing the ice maker from cycling due to temp. being too warm around the sensor. Have you ran the ice maker though a test cycle? Is it getting water to it? FInd out what is causing that door to not close properly and it should fix your issues. Let me know if you need any further assistance.

Most likely you may have a drum belt on this unit. I would start by checking the belt. See parts and video links below.

I would start by making sure the blower housing is clear and not restricted with lint. If it is plugged it will restrict air flow and shut down on the safety high limit thermostat, if it does I recommend replacing the heater box cutoff and cleaning out the lint . See parts and video links below.

This is a very common issue on this model. There is a 95% chance you need a drain tube upgrade kit. I recommend installing a new drain tube kit on this unit. See parts and video links below.

I you have a frost build up on the back coil of the freezer evaporator. I would recommend replacing the defrost heater and termination kit.

With a no heat situation I would start checking the the bake igniter on this unit. See parts and video links below

I just noticed that you replaced a switch already, assuming you also knew the issues. That leaves the upper harness. You have two possibilities the upper wiring harness, or a shorted key pad is the overlay, replace the overlay. Start with the overlay as it is the most cost effective. Since we already determined that the speed switch likes to short out, there will be current draw on the wiring. Now, you ‘could’ just replace the circuits to the ERC, but as you are the professional, always order the factory recommended part and do it.

Depending upon the serial number, the unit most likely has an ECS sensor.
This detects water temperature and can often times become coated with food and soap.
Samsung recommends replacing the ECS sensor (if it has one) and the main pcb ( Power control board ) since there is a firmware upgrade for the unit. Hope this helps

The ice-maker is not the problem. Airflow across the ice-maker could be, as well as a sticking defrost terminator on the evaporator. You may have been fortunate enough to see 0ºF when you looked, but with a temp logger, you can see what happens during a 5-day span. This might be beneficial to rule out sealed system or other defrosting issues. Are you confident that the unit has a good frost pattern on the evaporator? Several things can mask this problem for you.
For future reference, try the W10190965 ice-maker instead of the one they suggested (D7824706Q). It’s also a bare-bones ice-maker that is generally less expensive. I still feel like it’s something other than the ice-maker, though.

Hi. Was the fan working prior to the board install? Do you have the door switch closed in the freezer when checking fan operation? Most Samsung units will require the Door switch to be closed for the fan to run. Have you gained access to the fan motor. Is anything blocking the blades? Are you getting proper voltage to the fan?

Hi. Yes, this does sound like a relay issue on the board. Could be loose wiring or outlet, but with what you have described is sounds like a board issue. I, also show the board is No longer available. Usually the issue is with the motor relay. You would need to find a company that repairs circuit boards to repair this for you or find you the correct relay to replace.