All Answers

HI. An evaporator fan motor that is not running will cause an uneven frost pattern on the evap. Usually with heaver frost on the top of the evap just under the fan motor. I have also seen a ball of ice on this unit at the top right corner above the evap on the copper lines. I’m not sure what causes this, but I have seen it many times and it usually has no affect on the unit running. If your evap has frost across all the coils I would not be concerned. Let it run and cool for 24 hrs and temps should be normal. IF the ball of ice was the only frost you were getting and the coils were not all frosted up you may have a sealed system issue. Have them turn it back on so it can run for a few hours before you get there. Then take the back panel off and check the frost pattern on the evap coils. The coils should be mostly frosted up by this point and evenly frosted. If you get heavy frost at the beginning of the evap and it tapers off to nothing and is dripping water you may have a sealed system issue.

Hi. I am working on sending you a tech sheet on this unit.

HI. Below is the steps to take for a no heat symptom on this dryer. Was the dryer heating before you made the repairs on it? I will work on sending the tech sheet to you. Double check your fuse on the blower housing, and the hi limit fuse and t-stat on your heater box. IF theses are good then see what kind of voltage you get at your heat element. Following the steps below if you need further assistance and let me know what you find.

TEST #4 Heater
This test is performed when either of the following
situations occur:
✓ Dryer does not heat
✓ Heat will not shut off
✓ Display flashes L2
This test checks the components making up the heating
circuit. The following items are part of this system:
– Harness/connection – Centrifugal switch
– Heater relay – Exhaust thermistor
– Thermal cut-off – Machine control
– Inlet thermistor/ electronics. See ESD
high limit thermostat information, page 1.
– Heat element – User interface
assembly assembly
Dryer does not heat or display flashes L2:
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Remove the front panel and drum assembly to
access the thermal components. See Removing
the Front Panel/Drum Assembly, page 8.
3. Using an ohmmeter measure
the resistance across the high limit thermostat.
If an open circuit is not detected, go to step 5.
If an open circuit is detected, go to step 4.
4. Visually check the wire connections to the thermal
cut-off and the high limit thermostat. If
connections look good, check for continuity across
each of these components. Replace both the
thermal cut-off and the inlet thermistor/high limit
thermostat assembly if either the thermal cut-off
or the high limit thermostat is electrically open.
5. Measure the resistance between the red wires
at the heater.
If an open circuit is not detected: Go to step 7.
If an open circuit is detected, go to step 6.
6. Visually check the wire connections to the heater.
If the connections look good, replace the heater
assembly.
7. Visually check connections at the machine control
electronics. If the connections look good, and an
open circuit was not previously detected at the
heater, remove the P4 connector, then measure
the resistance between P4-3 (red wire) and P4-6
(red wire) at the connector. See figure 16, page 9
for connector location; and Accessing & Removing
the Electronic Assemblies, page 8.
If 5–15 kΩ are measured, replace the machine
control electronics.
If the resistance is less than 1 kΩ, replace the
exhaust thermistor.
Heat

I would suspect a frozen drain tube, but would also replace the evaporator cover. Samsung has a kit which includes the duckbill and a clip that connects to the defrost heater and extends into the drain.
Part number DA82-01415A

HI. There could be multiple things causing your dryer to not heat. Since it did give you some heat, I would imaging the fuses are good. You would not get any heat at all if they were bad. I have attached a few videos of LG dryers that are not heating. Make sure the venting is clear and the blower housing in the dryer. A clogged vent or housing will cause the heat to short cycle. You will still get heat but it will not stay on long enough to dry clothes very well. You could also have bad gas coils. When they go bad they will typically give you some heat at the beginning of the cycle and then they warm up and fail. They wont work again until they cool down which could be towards the end of the cycle. Take a look and let me know what you find out.

I would recommend removing any debris in the drain pump.

This unit most likely needs a new drain pump and lid switch.

This unit most likely needs a new drain pump and lid switch.

I would recommend installing a new door switch on this unit. See parts and video links below.

This unit most likely needs a new drain pump. See parts and video links below.

I would recommend checking for debris in the pump and removing if found.

I would recommend replacing the starting components on this unit.See parts and video links below

This unit has had many issues with the ice maker. I would recommend replacing the ice maker on this unit. See parts and video links below.

I would start by installing a cycling thermostat and thermal fuse. See parts and video links below.

I would recommend replacing the thermal fuse and thermistor on this unit.

Very common issue on this model. I would recommend replacing the upper housing and drum glides.

I recommend replacing the starting components on this unit.

I would recommend replacing the rear bearing on this unit. See parts and video links below.

This is a very common problem on this unit. This problem can be rectified with the instillation of a new drain kit. See parts and video links below

I would recommend replacing the lid lock on this unit.