0 votes

HI. I will need to get some more information to assist you better. Is the evaporator fan motor still not running? DO the evaporator coils have an even frost pattern? Are both frige and freezer not cooling or just the frige? The doors have to be closed on most Samsung models for the fans to run. If you have replaced the fan motor and its still not running you may have a bad control board. Lets look at the service manual first to find any error codes it may have to figure out what direction we need to go with this. I have attached a link to the service manual. Start on page 29 (9-14) to put this in diagnostic and check for error codes. You an also turn the fan on and off in diagnostic mode. Let me know what you find out.

0 votes

I would recommend installing a new lid switch on this unit. See parts and video links below

0 votes
In reply to: not heating

I would recommend installing a bake ignitor on this unit. See parts and video links below.

0 votes
In reply to: no heat

I would recommend installing a new bake ingitor on this unit. See parts and video links below.

0 votes
In reply to: buzzing wont start

I would recommend installing a new element and thermal fuse on this unit. See parts and video links below.

0 votes
In reply to: leaking water

This unit probably has a leak in the drain pan. I would recommend replacing the drain pan on this unit. See parts and video links below.

0 votes
In reply to: squealing

This unit most likely has a bad blower assembly. See parts and video links below.

0 votes
In reply to: No cool

I would recommend installing a new defrost timer on this unit. See parts and video links below.

0 votes

Hi. It sounds like its getting too hot and the board is sensing this and locking the door like it would in a self clean with high temps. Also, just like self clean it is not unlocking the door until it reads the temp had come back down. It could be getting too hot if the cooling fan motor is not running properly, which it sounds like is the culprit with is making noise. I would check that first. You can also, check the oven temp sensor which should be around 1100 ohms at room temp. After these two items I would be left with the control board. DO you have the tech sheet for the unit? I am unable to find one on this unit. Its usually on the back of the unit or attached to cabinet after you take the bottom drawer out. Are you getting any error codes?

0 votes
In reply to: SWEAT / CONDENSATION

HI. The power for the mullion heater and air duct heater come from the main control board(WR55X11098). Both door switches have to be closed for the the power to be sent to the heaters. Here is what the manual says about it.

Note: If the Energy Saver light is lit, then the heaters in the vertical and horizontal mullions are disabled. The heater operates on 13.6 VDC when both doors are closed. It is necessary to close the left side door and close the right side light switch to test for the operating voltage of 13.6 VDC. The resistance of the heater is approximately 4400 Ω.

It does not specify if the heaters are on all the time, if they operate off of a sensor, or run only when the unit runs.

So, if your not getting power to the mullion heater as long as your door switches are closed and working and there is not a wiring issue, I would replace the board. I have never seen these boards go bad for this issue personally.

0 votes

Unleveled unit, clogged drain, air infiltration from the condensate pan area some possibilities. Remove the rear cover f the unit is thawed out, if not use the steamer to completely de-ice behind the cover. In any case the cover may have been compromised when the ice built up, your call when you see it.
This is a dual evaporator model. Most Samsung’s are with the exception of the RS261 series.
I would suspect a frozen drain tube, but would also replace the evaporator cover. Samsung has a kit which includes the duckbill and a clip that connects to the defrost heater and extends into the drain.
Part number DA82-01415A

0 votes

The customer may have washed some rubber backed carpets which deteriorated and left rubber residue throughout the machine. Or a bad bearing causing the drum to rub against the boot or tub. The rotor bolt may also have come loose and allowed the spinner to slide forward and contact the bellow during spin. Hope this helps.

0 votes

Is it the actual interface tab broken, or the overlay button strip? If so W10294708 is the correct part #….it contains both user interfaces and has all you need.

0 votes
In reply to: INSTALL

Hi. attached is a video for this ice maker repair. It is for a different part number but installation should be the exact same.

0 votes

Hi. Sounds like you may have an issue with the main control board. How quickly does it cycle on and off? Is it clicking on and off every couple of seconds? I have seen the main control board cause this issue before. It’s part number W10219463. This part does not look like it is available. The part is back ordered. It may substitute to a different part number. Contact your parts store for more information. Unfortunately, if what I described above is happening there is not a definite way to test this. I have just seen it be a faulty board before. Let me know more information on what the unit is doing.

0 votes

Hi,
I was just wondering did you replace the inverter control board, and then clean the condenser. If you just cleaned the condenser coils i would wait up to 48 hours so the compressor can cool down. Is the condenser fan motor operating correctly? Does the fresh food section have proper airflow? What are the temperatures in both sections? Some times there may be a communication error between the inverter control and the main control, which would cause one of the controls to start beeping. If you can check these things and get back with me we can proceed to the next step.

0 votes
In reply to: Push Start Button

Hi. The next things I would checks are the door switch and belt switch. Also, there is a household type fuse at the back of the dryer near the terminal block it looks like. It’s part number WE1M1002. Have you checked this fuse as well? I wish I could tell you exactly what is wrong with this one, but at this point is could be multiple things. Sorry to hear it is in such a tight space. Let me know if you need any further help.

0 votes
In reply to: No cool

HI. I still think the unit is in Off mode. I’m concerned with the display still saying off. When you tried to turn it back on again with the instructions I provided, what happened? Did it beep at you or did the display change? Different models require different button presses to turn the unit back on. DO the buttons on the display respond to you pressing buttons? I have attached a few videos of different units that have this issue. Take a look at the videos. Is this the same trouble you are having with your unit?

0 votes
In reply to: Frosting up/no cool

This unit most likely needs a new defrost system.See parts and video links below.

0 votes
In reply to: No heat

Unit most likely needs thermal cut off kit.

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