All Answers

I think this is what you are looking for is part # 8201756 Ice chute door kit. This kit has a metal bracket that fits in place. Make sure you align it up to where you want it before peeling the film from the stickee! You have to be real careful with the adhesive tape. once you stick it, it’s stuck and you won’t get it back off. I don’t peel the one on top.

I think your not able to dry out cover the insulation is saturated on cover. Any time this evaporator ices up, it damages the integrity of the insulation. I usually replace the defrost terminator and temp sensor, even though you cannot properly test it other than thru continuity. And as I mentioned, once the cover has been frozen, it should be replaced. It goes without saying that any air infiltration thru the drain line will create this environment, so consider replacing any drain tube parts at the far end which may account for this. It seems that the more humid the weather becomes during spring and summer, that these problems tend to appear. You know all to well what humidity can do if it is drawn into a sealed system. If the doors and dispenser are sealing properly, then the drain tube would be my next subject for scrutiny. Also one more thing to keep in mind is to check the defrost sensor location. On many Samsung’s, the defrost sensor was placed on the evaporator outlet. It should be located on the inlet just below the cap tube joint. You might have to remove some of the mastic glob to relocate it. I would definitely replace the cover.

gary, the part # you’re looking for is 833697. We do have it available, I added the link below for you.

James,
I’d ensure you’re getting proper voltage to the unit as well as checking the breaker/box itself. If that all checks out then I’d start with the main pcb assembly. Part # is dc92–00127a and I’ll add a link below.

David, we do. p# is 134813600. I added the link below for you.

Hey Todd. Here is a link to the tech sheet on this washer. Hope it helps!

Hi Todd,
What happens in the spin cycle with this unit? Is it giving an error code? Making any noises? There is a diagnostic mode we can run on this unit. I am having a hard time finding the tech sheet on this or any information. Hopefully you can get a tech sheet out of the unit. Let me know.

Pull out the bucket assembly and make sure it is clear of ice and you can easily turn the auger assembly. If you cannot easily turn the auger I would recommend replacing the ice bucket assembly on this unit. This assembly is very common to break. and become jammed and not functional. See parts link below.

I would recommend checking continuity on the heater & defrost thermostat. If they have continuity I would recommend installing a new ADC (adaptive defrost control) on this unit. See parts and video links below.

I would recommend starting with the thermistor and thermal fuse on this unit. See parts and video links below.

This model is very common for the jazz board. If the coil is frosted ohm out the heater thermostat and if they have continuity replace the Jazz board. Here is the part number # W10503278

The OE error is a pump issue. In my opinion this unit needs a new drain pump or see if there is something stuck in the pump. . See parts a video links below.

Maybe if you tell your customer in this case that he gets two controls for the price of one, it won’t be as bad. You’ll find that most people go online before we get involved to check prices, etc. At least in my market, this is what I can expect. It’s doubly frustrating to explain why some internet outlets charge less than field service for parts, but I find that most people can be convinced that the repair is a better alternative than the scrapyard.
I think we all agree that the prices of parts is a sham in most cases, and this is one avenue we need to explore further as we go on. It’s not as though the cost of circuit boards has gone up over the years of service.

Yes. If you order the display board, there will likely be a power board in the box as well.

That could also be a stuck or sensitized keypad button on the control panel causing this F-1. Replacing the control panel should do it.

Thank you for the question. You will need to do a few different checks,
1. Black to white wire going to the inverter should have a consistent 120VAC.
2. Red/white to red should have 3-6 VDC going to the inverter.
3. Out of the inverter you should have approximately 230v at any 2 of the connections going to the compressor.
4. Any 2 posts on compressor should have the same resistance at the compressor and no short(open) to ground.

Please make these checks to determine where your problem is. I typically check the windings of the compressor for approximately the same resistance and that I am getting the proper voltage to the inverter. If those check out correct check power coming out of the inverter and replace accordingly.

When looking at the problem you are having you could have a few different potential problems. Have you checked all the defrost components? Does the unit appear to be defrosting properly? Was the ice the customer seen ice or was it frost? I would recommend running the unit for 24hrs and reevaluate the frost and cooling issue. Is the frost pattern a complete frost pattern? Was the ice the customer seen over the entire back panel or does it look like the start of a sealed system failure? Please let me know what you find after running for 24hrs.

Hi. I have seen this ice build up on this model many times. Ice and condensation will form at the corner of the back wall and ceiling of the ice maker housing as well as the ceiling of the ice maker assembly and the fascia on the front vent where the ice maker is . There is a fascia heater kit to take care of this issue. The part has been updated several times to improve the seals so when you order the part make sure its the latest version. Instructions are in the kit. For your model you will need p# W10619962 (white liner). Or if you have a grey liner you will need p# W10648070. According to your model number you should have a white liner. The manufacture does have a pointer out on this rep air and does cover parts and labor for up to 2 years from the purchase date. I have attached a link for this repair. Watch the video and see if this is the issue you are having.

What brand is this unit? Does the unit bake? It it does bake but not broil, you very likely have a bad broil element. If the bake and broil element both are not working then its sounds like like you may have another issue. Possibly the control board or damaged wiring to your element. It would be unlikely to have both elements out, but it is possible. I would check your element with your meter and see if its bad. If It is good then we need to see if we are getting proper voltage to the element. You should get 240 V. Let me know what you find out.

Are you getting any of the lights on the console to light up? Try holding the cancel button for 3 seconds to reset it. Also, you could try unplugging it for 5 mins and plugging it back in. If none of this works we will need to put into diagnostic mode to see what error codes you have in the system. I have attached some videos to show you how to do this. Let me know what you find out!