All Answers

Hi Todd.
It’s hard to say what is causing it to not self clean with out looking at it. We need to get some more information. The clicking could be normal. It’s normal to hear the relay on the board clicking every few seconds during cook cycles. See what happens when you select a self clean cycle. Does the door lock? Is there an error code? With it heating your most likely issues would be with the door lock or control.

Hi. I would replace the motor pump assembly to correct your issue. P#3369037. I’m not sure about the service mannual on this unit. The tech sheet should be located under the kick panel.

You may have lack of water issues, a plugged water inlet valve or the pump and motor assembly on this unit with lime and calcium deposits.

The most common issue would be the drum belt on this unit. If it is not a broken belt please write back for other suggestions. See parts and video links below.

Yes, It does appear that on this model on a bake cycle the broil and bake elements come on to preheat the oven. This is common on a lot of units now. Does it never reach preheat temp? Are both broil and bake elements coming on during bake? To get the most recent error code perform the following steps. Let me know what you find out.

Before proceeding with any corrective action, perform the following
steps to enter the Diagnostics mode.
1. To recall last failure code, if not displayed, press the Off key to
place the range in an idle state.
2. Press the Off and Start keys in the following order:
OFF, OFF, START.
3. Verify the error code displayed on the control by observing for
longer than 1 minute. If the error returns, use the applicable
procedure listed below for the actual error code that is displayed.

This growling or grinding is most likely a new blower wheel. See parts and video links below.

Sounds like the unit is not defrosting , it is common on this model to need a new defrost heater and thermostat.See parts link below.

If the motor is humming you could have a defective motor or something stuck in the pump. In most cases you can remove objects from the pump without damage. Here are the links below if you need to replace the motor pump on this unit. See parts link below.

Hey Todd.
We will need to enter into diagnostic mode to see what error codes are stored in the system. The most common part that I see go out on this unit is the shifter/actuator. Attached are videos for diagnostics and the shifter repair.

When is the heater coming on that it is not suppose to? Different dishwashers turn the heater on at different times. They will turn the heater on for the drying cycle and also during the wash cycles to help heat up the water. Sounds like the heater is coming on to heat the water but you are not getting any water to the unit. Can you provide me with a model number so I can better assist you? I cant say that I have seen a heater turn on when it is not suppose to on a dishwasher. Something could be shorted out like wiring or control board. Are you getting 120 V to the inlet valve when you start a cycle?

Dramatic changes in temperature between cooling and defrosting can cause the fresh food evaporator drain pan to expland and contract. The recommended fix is a an evaporator seal part # DA62-01426A. I’ll give you some instructions on the repair below.

Initiate a forced defrost (RD) for a short time to ensure there is no frost on the evaporator. Remove the fresh food section evaporator cover and release the evaporator tube from the clip at the top. Lift the evaporator and drain pan up and out of the liner carefully. Remember that the heater may be hot! Attach a sheet of foam seal to the wall behind the drain pan and be sure that the back wall is dry before applying the seal. Return the drain pan and evaporator to thei proper place and then snap the tube back into the clip. Verify that the drain pan is pushed down firmly at the bottom center in the corners.

Important note:
It is normal for some expansion and contraction to occur. Please instruct the customer to refer to the User’s Manual for an explanation of various normal sounds.
Also, The sheet of foam is a generic part that can be cut to size and used on any model.

Kraig,
You did everything right so far, if you remove the cover, check for ice build up at the top of the evaporator. If ice is present, this indicates partial defrost. Remove all the ice from the evaporator and fan, and then make sure the defrost sensor is facing to the left side. If the defrost sensor was embedded in ice, replace it. In most cases, it is not necessary to replace the evaporator cover.

If the noise had originated in that ice room, you can check for ice or frost at the fan and replace the auger motor/fan assembly if necessary.

There is, and the part # is DA82-01415A. It comes with a new drain tube with cap, 1 foam seal for bottom of the drain plate, 2 foam strips for the back of the evaporator drain plate, and 1 defrost heater clip.

Unplug the refrigerator and remove the Evaporator Cover. Verify that the defrost heater and defrost sensor resistance is correct. If incorrect, replace the parts. Move the defrost sensor to the top of the evaporator inlet tube (just below the cap tube joint). If necessary, remove enough mastic material to place the sensor correctly. The sensor must be positioned on the left side of the inlet tube. Check the heater clip on the heater. If clip is shorter than the one in the kit, replace it with the new one. If the clip is the same length as the new one, do not replace it.

Lift the evaporator and drain plate out of position and then carefully bend them up. Add the two foam strips to the back of the plate and then add the seal to the bottom of the drain plate. Bend the bottom row of the cooling ribs on the evaporator. Remove the seal on the back of the evaporator cover, if there is one present. The cover should be smooth. Replace the drain tube and cap. The refrigerator section tube is on the far right in the compressor compartment.

Let us know if there’s anything else we can do to help.

Gary,
This is true. For the repair you’d need the Tub Assembly (8066082) and the Center Post Gasket (383727). I’ll try and give you some detailed instructions for this below.

Unplug washer or disconnect power. Unplug the lid switch, remove top, and set aside. Remove the two front panel screws and lift the front panel straight up to remove. Remove the agitator cap, barrier cap, and 7/16″ bolt. Unsnap and remove tub ring next, lay over side panel. Remove back splash and then remove the two 5/16″ bolts that attach the top. Slide the entire top forward gently and lift the back a little to make sure you don’t catch the red retainer clips. Unplug the washer motor harness and unscrew the ground wire. Remove the two lower plate bolts (1/2″). Unplug the pressure hose and remove from the tub. Slide the base assembly out. Then remove the basket and the drive block. Remove drain hose and upper clamp and slide off the tub port. Remove the counterbalance spring located towards the rear of the tub and remove the 6 tub screws.

use dish soap or rinse aid on the new Center Post Gasket to help insert into the new tub assembly. Ensure that the seal is inserted correctly. Reassemble the washer. Ensure all the connections are made, then run a cycle to verify it’s working properly with no leaks.

James, I’ll walk you through a quick way to correct this.

1. Check all the screws behind the oven door gasket – in place and tight.
2. Check that the door gasket is installed correctly and with all clips locked into place.
3. Check the center hinge receiver, all screws are in place for the front chassis support
4. Check the underside of the range below the center hinge receiver and make sure all 4 screws are tight and in place.
5. Check that the door hinges are installed correctly & both mounting screws are secure.
6. Check that the hinge retainers are closed and not blocked by the hinge cover.
7. Check the top of door liner with a straight edge – make sure the liner is not bowed more than the width of a dime.
8. Loosen the door panel top screws to a “relaxed” state. Open and close the door and retighten screws.
9. Check the light/latch switch assembly – if out of position or stuck in incorrect position.
10. If everything checks out, and oven light still stays on, replace hinges.

Let us know if there’s anything else we can do for you.

Hi. It sounds like every thing is working correctly. You get water to the ice maker, it does make cubes, temps are good, and the ice maker cycles in test mode. IT should take about 1.5 Hrs. to make ice if temps are correct. I always tell my customers to give it 4 or 5 hrs. to create its first batch of ice after i complete the repair. Hopefully they just had the ice maker turned off and it will now make ice. IF not have them unplug the unit to reset the control board. It could need to be reset after the new ice maker was installed. These units will go through a system check on start up and if any error codes are present it will show them in the display. If still no ice after the reset I would enter into diagnostic mode and check for errors and run any tests that can be done for the ice maker through diagnostic mode. Good luck and let me know if you need any further help.

HI. Make sure you are getting enough water to the ice maker so all the molds are filling with water. Is the temperature in the freezer good? IF temps are good and water pressure is good you could have a bad blower fan. I have seen a few fail, usually resulting in an error code. To replace this fan motor you will need to gain access into the freezer. it is located under the evaporator cover in the freezer. Let me know what you find out.

Thank you for your question. On this particular unit you have replace what I would have replaced. Since that didn’t fix the problem I am wondering if you have frost anywhere else in the freezer? Is the frost on the evaporator over the whole thing like a typical defrost issue? Is the frost just on the top or bottom of the evaporator? Is the fresh food section colling properly? I ask those questions because if your evaporator fan is not running you could have frost build up on the top of the evaporator. If the air return is freezing over the bottom of the evaporator could be getting frosted over. If there is frost on the food in the freezer or ice building up in the freezer section you could have an air leak from the door seal and or the ice dispenser. Also, does it possibly look like a sealed system failure? Do you have a partial frost pattern on the evaporator? Is there an ice ball at the top? Also is the unit running for at least 24 hrs prior to arrival? Also has the unit been tipped on its side? Please, if you can let me know what you find.

Hi. You could have a problem with you inlet valve if you are not getting any water at all to the ice maker. Start by putting the ice maker through a test. Then go to the inlet valve and check to see if you can hear the inlet valve energize once the ice maker gets to the point in the cycle that it is suppose to fill with water. Put your electrical meter on the valve as well to see if you get 120 V when it is energized. You could also take the water line off the inlet valve during the test cycle to see if you get any water that comes out when it is energized. Use a towel or bucket to collect any water. If no water then you have a bad inlet valve. If the inlet valve never energizes or you do not get 120 V to it during the test cycle then you could have a bad ice maker or possibly control board. Let me know what you find out. Attached are a few videos on this ice maker as well to help you out.

Hello
By the model number you provided this shows as a refrigerator with the freezer on top, if this is the case, the freezer shelf should be fairly easy to remove. The shelf is only held in place by a few grommets that attach to the side walls of the freezer. Grasp the freezer shelf and move the whole shelf as far to the right or to the left as it will go (if it is frozen in place you will need to thaw out). With a little pressure on the shelf towards the wall, you should the ends of the shelf sliding out of the body of the freezer. Lift that end out of the holes and release the other side of the shelf from the freezer cavity. We hope this helps! Email us back with any other questions. Thanks Matt Ace technician