All Answers

I would recommend replacing the shift actuator and then calibrating the unit. See parts and video links below.

I would recommend installing a new defrost timer on this unit. A defrost timer and thermostat is the most common issue on this model. See parts and video links below.

I would recommend installing a new bake igniter on this unit. That is the most common issue . See parts and video links below.

This unit needs may have a defrost issues, it is very common for the main control board to go bad. If you can give me more details of where the water is leaking from, inside the refrigerator or in back of unit .

If the drain pump was effective at removing the water quickly enough, and check it for output. I usual let the machine fill, then switch it directly to a drain/spin cycle. The entire tub should be clear in less than 40 seconds if the pump is working as intended Also look for impeller that is slipping on pump shaft. I had one and it looked fine without load on it, but it ended up being the pump shaft.

I have a few questions:
Is the cam/gear assembly working smoothly?
When this error occurs, have you by chance been able to see the cam lever in position?
Does the basket rotate freely or could it be binding under load?
If this is the older type wiring harness with the huge red coil of wire underneath (choke), replace it with the new style harness. There were quite a few that were pinched under the wire ties during assembly. The damage doesn’t show up for a few years, but usually presents itself as a ghost issue.

At the present time we do not have a videos on the duct door assembly. We have this model requested and are planning on doing a premium series of videos in the near future. Thanks Matt Ace technician

Are you sure you pulled off the correct wires from the switches? Try both L1 and L2 until you find the faulty switch. Or trace the wired back from the hot surface light. I believe they will go to the ‘p’ terminal of each switch. You could disconnect each of these wires until you find witch one is sending the power to the light. I hope this helps. I have attached another video to help you.
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Hello
It sounds like one of the switches are defective or shorted and leaving line voltage to the indicator light. We have a good diagnostic video below on this. Let me know if this helps. Thanks Matt Ace technician

I would recommend installing a new idler pulley on this unit.

I would recommend installing a new thermal fuse and cycling thermostat. See parts and video links below.

I would recommend replacing the medium burner and burner cap on this unit. See parts and video links below.

I would recommend replacing the ice maker on this unit. See parts and video links below.

By Model it looks to be a Whirlpool built dishwasher under the Kenmore Brand.

Typically the Factory diagnostic test can be ran by pressing the High Temp wash, then the air dry button, high temp wash again, and then the air dry button again. (All buttons must be pressed within 10 seconds or you will need to start over) The light sequencing should start for you.

To put the unit in a Service Diagnostic Test Mode hit these buttons in this order: High Temp wash, then the air dry button, high temp wash again, the air dry button, then the High temp Wash button. (All buttons must be pressed within 10 seconds or you will need to start over) The light sequencing should start for you.

If you remove the kick panel on the unit the technician guide should be behind there. That will show you specifically what each of the light sequences mean.

If you need a copy of the diagnostic sheet or use and care manual let me know. 🙂

Good Luck

Usually 2 or 3 times. What buttons are you pressing? Heated dry and normal?

More than likely you have a bad bearing and/or a broken spider on the back of the basket. You could take a look at the pulley on the back of the washer to make sure the nut holding it in place is not loose. That’s about the only other possible thing to cause this.

HI. If I am thinking of the same dishwasher this should work. Try ‘Heated Dry, Normal, Heated Dry, Normal’. This will enter diagnostic mode. Then hit cancel to exit this mode and your error codes should now be gone. Let me know if this works for you.

Most likely you have a bad agitator coupling. The agitator lifts off the coupler when you pull agitator from bottom and release the clips.Their will be one 7/16″ nut holding coupler on. Take out and make sure transmission shaft does not move freely. If moves freely you have a bad transmission. If stays stationary , replace coupler and reinstalled agitator and you should be all set. Below is a video to help .

You might wonder if the drain pump was effective at removing the water quickly enough, and check it for output. I usually let the machine fill, then switch it directly to a drain/spin cycle. The entire tub should be clear in less than 40 seconds if the pump is working as intended. Have you registered at lgtechassist.com yet? I use a mobile app that can save me time in the field by pulling up any manual or bulletin. You just enter the model and serial and go! As of the last time I checked, registration is still free for all the technical info.

yes. The part number is 279834. Attached is a link to the part.