All Answers

Hi. The first thing you will need to check is power going to the compressor. Do you have power to the compressor? If you do, then you either have bad start components (overload and relay) or a faulty compressor. If you are not getting power to the compressor then you likely have a bad control board.

If it is a heat-release ice maker, perhaps it is getting jammed during harvest or the ice maker is just defective . See repair videos below.

Heat Release I/M Test Mode
Press and hold the Ice Test Switch for at least 1.5 seconds. The harvest function will start. If the Ice Maker Thermistor
is below 0°F, the Ice Maker heater turns on for about 2 minutes. If the temperature exceeds 0°F, the Ice maker heater
turns on for 30 seconds, then turns off and the Ice maker harvest motor turns on. The motor will rotate in a clockwise
direction for about 3 minutes, the water supply valve is turned on then off and the test mode is completed. If this
operation is not carried out within 6 minutes, it will go into a fault mode.
Heat Release Ice Makers

We have seen many control boards on this model cause this issue, more commonly than the ice maker being defective . See parts link and diagram below.

The no start could be a lid switch.and the no agitate most likely on this model is new agitator dog kit. See links below for parts and videos.

Under the control panel you will find a technical test guide to put the unit into the diagnostic mode. If you cannot get it into the test mode the unit needs a new oven TCO. See parts link and diagram below.

Under the control panel you will find a technical test guide to put the unit into the diagnostic mode. If you cannot get it into the test mode the unit needs new main control board. See the links below.

Look at the drain pump to see if it is plugged with debris. If it is not the unit needs a new drain pump.See parts link below.

Most common issue is the element and fuse kit. See parts and video links below.

This sounds like it needs the unit shut off arm. See parts link and diagram below.

I would recommend adjusting the thermostat on this unit to a higher setting # 5 , If it still does not cool you may need a temperature control.

This unit needs a new lid switch. It sounds like a bad connection on the lid switch. See parts and video links below.

This unit needs a new bearing kit in my opinion.See parts and diagram links below.

Its very common to need a new dispenser solenoid. See parts and video links below.

Unit needs new element and thermal fuse. See parts and video links below.

This unit most likly needs a new heating element and front bearing kit. See parts links below.

We have see many pumps defective on this model. See part link below.

We have found the trim & membrane assembly defective on this model several times with an F7 error code. See parts list below .

We have run into many of new tub to pump hose connectors leaking , in my opinion I would start there first. . See parts and repair video links below.

This is what we normally see. It is probably a lack of ice usage. They just do not use enough ice or there is someone in the house that is a crushed ice fiend and the chute freezes and will block the flap. The warm air will enter and cause your issue.

Todd
You are correct on your diagnoses. 98% of the time the igniter is weak and not igniting the gas burner fast enough. The complaint will be a gas smell or a combustion noise from the gas build up when it finally lights. Sometimes customers even say the combustion gas builds up enough to open the door 2-5 inches when it finally lights. All due to a weak igniter. Matt Ace technician