All Answers

That is a refrigerator floor kit, it has a heater that goes on the ref floor, a piece of insulation and a new plastic floor that you silicone in place the heater connects in behind the back wall. The kit should have instructions with it but you can also you tube it under the part #. They use it if the ref drain tube keeps freezing up, you need to make sure that is already has the ref drain heater kit #4201290 which is a heater that goes into the drain tube, also make sure the tube is not clogged with debris under the unit. I have ran into some that are all plugged up and need to be cleaned out. Hope this helps

There are a few possibilities number one being the electronic damper control #W10257451. Make sure the damper is working and closing . If it is closed when the refrigerator the refrigerator temperature is satisfyied go the thermister next, there is only one thermister in the freezer. To put the in diagnostic set freezer temp. to lowest setting prior to entering diagnostic mode. Look for your technician diagnostic sheet in your washer and go to test 15 and 16 . This will test test the damper door assembly on and off. Matt Ace technician

I would by checking the pressure switch tube to make sure there are no obstructions. This is a common issue and could cause you exact symptoms. Matt Ace technician

The error code er ff on the refrigerator. On the Kenmore refrigerator model number 79577563600 .
It is caused when feedback signal isn’t read for over 65 seconds during the evaporator fan motor operation.

1. reset the unit and input test 1 mode.
   (push button 1 time).

2. open the freezer door and check the air flow.
   *while an error code is being displayed, the fan doesnt work.
   status: svc action
   no windy go to 3
   windy go to 4

3. check the fan motor.
   rotate fan using your hand. if feel sticky, change the motor
   (cause of ice or rust inside of motor)

4. check the fan motor voltage.

point result svc action
(1) – (2) below 12 v change the pcb
(1) – (3) 0 or 5 v change the motor

We have one fellow has been using this soldering iron for a few years . He likes the benefit of no flames. Check it out at Americanbeautytools.com We had them at a couple of our NASC conventions where they allowed you to use their equipment and practice soldering without a flame. It worked very well, from my experience. Some states or cities, New York comes to mind, will not allow an open flame in their condo’s or apartment buildings and this is a way of circumventing that restriction. I can think of a lot of other situations where this flame-less heat source would be beneficial, think of foam insulation surrounding the compressor compartment or plastic liner where you need to replace the evaporator. These are just a few quick thoughts. It is definitely worth checking it out. Oh, by the way, Sub Zero encourages the use of this product in the repairs of their refrigeration systems.

A shorted element would cause this issue, I also had similar issue with a GE dryer. Customer kept telling me they had exhaust cleaned six months ago. I finally got them to call a chimney sweep, they found a bird nest in flue. If you know for sure you have good airflow with proper testing, then I would suspect an element shorted to the chassis or a stuck heater relay on the control board. Turn the dryer to air dry, if you start to feel heat, one of those is causing your issue. If it was a relay stuck on the PCB, shouldn’t the thermal safety fuse on the heater go out first? I did have a stuck relay on another Whirlpool dryer and the thermal fuse on the heater went out. Hope this helps .

On front load washers if you take off the front kick plate, it has a fault ground switch that will open and trip the button on your GFI outlet. The cover needs to be on . It may also be a defective outlet or GFI, see link below for a tester to make sure its the outlet and not the appliance.
http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_3/178-7164198-8068555?ie=UTF8&qid=1439998852&sr=8-3&keywords=gfi+outlets

I think you will find your problem in the element or thermostat. I would take both with you. Also make sure your vent is clean to prevent any future problems.

Todd
I would start with 220 volts to the dryer coming in. Your motor will run with 115 volts, the element needs 220 volts. If you have 220 volts to the dryer I would check for continuity at the heater part # WE04X10039 Heater and check your Thermostat WE11X99. We can then proceed forward after you make these checks. Matt Ace technician

Thank you for your question. If the switches are sparking I would recommend replacing the ones that are sparking. I do want to confirm that there are no loose connections to any of the existing switches, or wires you may have disconnected. If the bad switch is still in place that could also have an impact on the other switches. So to start I would replace the bad switch and confirm the sparking at the other switches continues or stops.

HI. F4 error code.
The element has been on too long (about 3 hours) and the water has not reached the required temperature. The product will abort the wash program, log the fault and report to the user.
PRIMARY ACTION – Check that the controller power connector and the heater plate connectors are properly fitted and the harness is not damaged. – Check the resistance between pins 1 and 2 of heater plate PCB, and if open circuit, replace the heater plate.
SECONDARY ACTION – Check the resistance between pins 1 and 2 of the controller power connector is about 10K at approx. 25oC / 77oC ambient room temperature. – If not (provided the harnesses are OK and the connectors are correctly fitted), replace the heater plate (bad temperature sensor).
TERTIARY ACTION – Replace the controller.
Let me know if you need any further assistance.

Do you have the ice function “on” at the display panel? Check this video out.

HI. Yes, the error code for theses 3 blinking lights (smart auto, normal, and delicate) is for a high water temperature error. IF the water temp entering the unit is above 170 deg. it will cause this error. If your incoming water temp. is good, then the most likely part that is bad is the ECS sensor. I attached a link to this part. To replace this part you need to lay the dishwasher on its back or side and remove the two bottom screws for the bottom panel. Now you will have access to the sensor. Twist sensor to remove. You will reuse the o-ring. Let me know if you need any further assistance.

HI. Yes, the error code for theses 3 blinking lights (smart auto, normal, and delicate) is for a high water temperature error. IF the water temp entering the unit is above 170 deg. it will cause this error. If your incoming water temp. is good, then the most likely part that is bad is the ECS sensor. I attached a link to this part. To replace this part you need to lay the dishwasher on its back or side and remove the two bottom screws for the bottom panel. Now you will have access to the sensor. Twist sensor to remove. You will reuse the o-ring. Let me know if you need any further assistance.

One thing I came across was a freezer basket sensor switch. Located in the freezer. p#DA34-00047B. It is 8-4 on this diagram. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/samsung-refrigerator-parts/model-RF263BEAEBCAA0001/1482/0161000/50040548/00001.html

Looks like this switch is actuated by the freezer basket or the track when the door closes. I would make sure this switch is working and that the track or basket is engaging this switch. Looks like this switch may control operation for the ice maker.

I would try to put the unit in diagnostic mode first. This model will store the errors. If you cannot get into diagnostic the only option is the main control board. Please let us know if this corrects the issue. Matt Ace technician

IT could be the motor. It also could be a start relay or belt switch if this model has has either one. I could not find your model number. Will you please re check the model number for me? About how old is this unit?

Are the lights coming on when the doors are open? If not plug something in to the outlet like a small lamp to make sure you have proper voltage. We use a Amprobe ST-102B Socket Tester with GFCI see link . http://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-ST-102B-Socket-Tester-GFCI/dp/B008E07HM2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1439819835&sr=8-1&keywords=WALL+CIRCUIT+TESTER . If you have improper polarity or a bad neutral or ground you will also get error codes and a stalled unit that will be unresponsive. Did you unplug any wire harnesses? I would checked all the connections on the main control to make sure there is not a loose connection. If all of these items check out, I would try to put the unit in the diagnostic mode. See link below for diagnostic mode. If you cannot get into diagnostic mode you need to replace the main PCB board. Matt Ace technician

Hi. Does the dyer stop running as soon as the start button or sometime into the cycle? Usually when a dryer motor becomes weak it will shut off in the middle of a Cycle and if you try to start it right away it will just hum. Once it cools down it will start again. Does the motor hum when you try and start it? Make sure that the drum supports and bearings are good. Is the drum hard to move the drum by hand ? If the motor is shutting down or just humming and the drum can be rotated easily then you have a weak motor than will need to be replaced.

James, I’d say you were dead on, especially if everything mechanically checked out. Even a small gap, or a seal that didn’t quit grab can cause quite a bit of a problem. We always just say to monitor and see if they call you back.