All Answers

Harley, we don’t stock it, but the part # is 426862P if you can find some availability somewhere else. Good luck!

David, that control is RAS-SM7GV-11, and we do carry it. I’ll add it below for you. Let us know if you need anything further!

E22 OR 22E This is a Refrigerator evaporator Fan motor error.
The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator or sometimes called termination switch has gone out and u get ice build up? You can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. You also may just have a defective evaporator motor. If motor and terminator check out got to the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!

Hope this helps
Matt Ace Appliance

Hi. If I understand your issue correctly, the temps Inside the refrigerator and freezer are good but the temps on the display say the unit is too warm. The first thing I would check is to make sure your air flow is good and nothing is blocking your thermistors. Try and reset the unit by unplugging it for 10 mins and plugging it back in. See if the display changes to the correct temps. If that does not work you can check the resistance of the thermistors at the control board in the back of the unit at the J1 connector. You will need your tech sheet.

Hi. If I understand your issue correctly, the temps Inside the refrigerator and freezer are good but the temps on the display say the unit is too warm. The first thing I would check is to make sure your air flow is good and nothing is blocking your thermistors. Try and reset the unit by unplugging it for 10 mins and plugging it back in. See if the display changes to the correct temps. If that does not work you can check the resistance of the thermistors at the control board in the back of the unit at the J1 connector. You will need your tech sheet.

How long is it taking to pre heat your oven?

Sorry. The diagram is not showing me where the screw are at and I can not find any videos on this ice maker.

To replace the ice maker, the complete assembly has to be taken out. Remove the screw at the top left and then the screw in the center of the back housing and the 2 screws at the bottom. Disconnect the wire harnes. With the Assembly out, you will be able to remove the top screw on the right side of the ice maker and then remove the ice maker itself. Reverse the procedure to replace the ice maker. Let me know if you need further help.

The water reservoir is W10394084
The current tank number is W10430995
That number subs to the original W10277923, which is a single large tank.

Check the heated dry switch and air/heat switch to make sure they are on. Also the timer contacts may have worn at the end of the cycle cam, or at one point, someone tried to turn the cycle knob counterclockwise. I would try a new timer, since both the solenoid and motor must engage to drain…

Odds are it’s a blocked return-air duct at the bottom, or even an inefficient compressor. You may have to inspect the evaporator coil also to verify a full frost pattern & no blockage. If there was a previous air leak, the air duct could have been blocked with frost. Also Are you sure the evaporator fan blade is on correct and is moving in the proper direction.

Gary
Their has been issues on certain models of Jenn-Air ranges where the interior cavity was an issue. You should be able to have up to 25 lbs. of down pressure on the rack with the rack completely extended in the out position. Their is a repair kit for this issue and I recommend you call Whirlpool at 1-866-698-2538 . They will be able to provide you with the detailed warranty information.

Yes, it absolutely can cause the issue. In fact Whirlpool will not warranty any ice maker with a reverse osmosis water filter in line. It causes low water pressure to the water inlet valve. The water inlet ( Solenoid ) valve needs the correct water pressure to seat the valve properly. With low water pressure the valve will not open or close properly and with low water pressure it will freeze the inlet tube to the ice maker. The pressure of the water is going in so slow it freezes the tube before the water gets to the ice maker. Matt Ace technician

It sounds like you have a bad rear bearing. This will cause the basket to drop down and rub into the plastic outer tub near the bellow. Also, with a bearing that is bad the washer will be very loud in spin. An easy way to tell if the bearing is bad is to lift up on the front of the basket. There should be very little play. It shouldn’t move much on its own without the tub moving also. If it is sloppy with a lot of play it’s bad. To replace the bearing is very expensive and requires a lot of work. Look at the warranty section in the owners manual. The bearings are sometimes covered for up to 10 years.

We have run into two exact issues that you are having. First one we had a defective User Control and Display Board that went bad and would not power up, here is your part number DA41-00204C . The second one we had , we installed the main power board control and had a shorted DC evaporator fan motor that took out the new board, we had to go back and replace the new board and motor. Examine the new installed board for damage and if it is shorted or damaged . If it is, we start with a new board and evaporator motor. Did you install this part number refrigerator main control board Part #: DA41-00104M ? Matt Ace technician

You are correct, we have replaced 70-80 of these under warranty in the last few years. We have found 100% of the time SO FAR it being the fresh food refrigerator evaporator. Very important recommendation if the unit is under warranty,. Always replace the compressor with the evaporator. About 30% of the time moisture will get into the sealed system and mix with the compressor oil and damage the compressor valves. So if this is not under warranty advise the customer of the 30% risk of needing to replace the compressor after evaporator installation. Or just bid it for both compressor & evaporator and you will be 100% safe. Matt Ace Technician

Here is a video for the evaporator replacement on a similar model refrigerator.

HI. Yes, your model number is listed as one to has this potential sealed system failure. This repair is covered under the manufacture even if its out of warranty. You should be a Whirlpool service provide to do this repair. You are suppose to call whirlpool tech line while with the unit and they will give you the appropriate part numbers to complete the repair. The parts that need replaced are the fresh food evaporator, filter drier, and I would recommend replacing the compressor as well to avoid future issue from moisture in the system. There is also a part number for a heat shield kit they will give you for brazing in the new evaporator. You are also going to need the tech sheet for this repair to open the sealed system valve for reclaiming and recharging.

This is a 12 volt DC evaporator fan motor # DA31-00146H . If you can hear the motor run when the door is open your motor is most likely not your issue. They have magnetic door switches. If the unit is calling for cool cooling the motor will run consistently until the thermistor and temperature control is satisfied. If you replaced the control panel board, and PCB board and are getting above normal temperatures in the bother freezer and refrigerator section. The condenser motor & compressor running, you need to look at the evaporator to see if you have an even frost pattern. My guess without seeing the unit is a sealed system problem. I think you have a leak in the system or a bad suction vale in the compressor. Matt Ace technician

Hi. The first thing I would check is your heat elements. Both bake and broil. Are you able to see both elements in the oven? some bake elements are hidden under the bottom panel. Do they glow bright orange after about 10 mins, when you turn bake or broil on?