All Answers

Sounds like the only thing left would be the main control board. Your temps are cold enough to make ice, you are getting water to it and you have already replaced the ice maker which works when you manually put it through a cycle. You have tested the switches. The only thing left that it could be is your control board. I would replace the board.

If you replaced the igniter and you have power to the valve, you will need to replace the gas valve. 95% of the time its the igniter . We do see defective main vales about 5% of the time.

Can you send us the full model number and serial number. We are looking at the ( RF263 ) you sent us but there are several models with that series. We want to be sure we are looking at the exact model. Thanks

Yes, there should be a calibration mode. You can usually calibrate it plus or minus 30 degrees. You will need the owners manual or possibly to text sheet to do this.

Hello Danielle – Since your unit has optics (flashing light on the freezer door liner) I will start with the simple diagnostics per the manufacturer – start by installing all components that may have been removed.
Step 1 – Open the freezer door and look at the optics light.
What do you see? 2 options, option A and option B
A. Two pulses followed by a one second delay which is repeated over and over.
If you see this:
1. The flapper door on the emitter is blocking the beam – Go to Step 2
2. The optics are faulty – Go to Step 2
B. No lighted pulses
If you see this:
1. The icemaker is in a harvest mode (mid-cycle) – Hold the freezer door switch closed to allow the icemaker to complete the cycle (roughly 3 minutes) – when in the harvest mode, the lighted pulse will flash once every second.

Step 2 – Press in the emitter flapper door (opposite side of flashing light) to unblock the optics beam (make sure your hand is not blocking the beam as well).
What do you see? 2 options, option A and option B
A. Two pulses followed by a one second delay which is repeated over and over
If you see this:
1. The optics are faulty – Replaced the emitter and receiver boards (sold as a pair).
B. LED is steadily on
If you see this:
1. The optics are working properly – the problem exists in a different component.

This should at least get us started, please report back with findings if more assistance is needed and I can help from there.

Thank You

Hi Todd.
First make sure that the unit heats. See if the bake element or igniter comes on and gives a flame.. If that checks out good then test your temperature probe. At room temperature it should be about 1100 ohms. See if there is a diagnostic mode you can retrieve any stored error codes.

I would recommend installing a new evaperator fan motor on this unit.

I would recommend installing a new defrost heater and termination on this unit. The noise is the fan motor hitting the frost build up due to a defrost issue. See parts and video links below.

I would recommend replacing the inlet valve. See parts and video links below.

I would recommend starting at the door lock on this unit. It is a very common problem on this model. See parts and video links below

Jose, also the email address you registered with is not valid. Please email service@appliancevideo.com with a valid email address.

Most likely you do have a weak igniter. if valve ohms out properly and and igniter is getting 120 since it is glowing, the only viable problem would be a weak bake igniter. Even getting 3 amps to igniter does not guarantee that igniter does not have a weak spot.

Most of the time the cycle blinking light indicates an error code depend on how many times it blinks. They are prone to heater error issues which could be either board in line thermostat or heater. easiest way to find the issue is to get the tech sheet from either behind bottom panel or from behind door panel. once you get the tech sheet you can put through diagnostics or go straight to board and ohm out the heater and thermostat from board. from my experience the boards are the problem 75 percent of the time. to be certain though i would ohm out heater and thermostat and put through diag before ordering any parts.

Hi. Did you already verify the error code you get from the blinking light is for the unit not heating? This error will occur when the water temp. does not rise a certain amount during the cycle. This can be for a number of reasons including the unit not getting warm enough water. I would make sure its not an external issue first, then If you have already verified the heater is good then it’s either the thermal fuse for the heat circuit or your control board. There should be a tech sheet under the kick panel of your dishwasher. There will be a diagnostic mode you can run to check the heat circuit. Let me know if you need any further help.

I would start by checking the disconnect fuses at the unit , in most cases one or both of the fuses are open or defective. If you have 220 volts to the unit and both fuses are sending proper voltage I would look next at the run capacitor. See both video links below.

I would recommend removing the front cover and check the idler pulley. If the pulley is worn replace the idler pulley. If it is not worn you may have a transmission making noise. See parts and video links below.

I recommend installing a new drain tube kit and clearing the ice from the freezer.

I would recommend replacing the thermal fuse and thermostat on this unit. See parts and video links below.

When the ice maker drops one cycle are you putting the water in the first cycle or is it coming from the inlet valve ? What temperature are you getting in the ice room ? It needs to be at +16 degrees or lower to put the ice maker in the harvest cycle. We can move forward after you answer these questions.

Hi this is Cristian, an appliance technician at Ace Appliance. The Ohms rating should be anywhere from 1.2 Ohms- 2 ohms. + or – 10% each way for each side (top and bottom). If you still have issues please let me know.