All Answers

Hello Danielle – Since your unit has optics (flashing light on the freezer door liner) I will start with the simple diagnostics per the manufacturer – start by installing all components that may have been removed.
Step 1 – Open the freezer door and look at the optics light.
What do you see? 2 options, option A and option B
A. Two pulses followed by a one second delay which is repeated over and over.
If you see this:
1. The flapper door on the emitter is blocking the beam – Go to Step 2
2. The optics are faulty – Go to Step 2
B. No lighted pulses
If you see this:
1. The icemaker is in a harvest mode (mid-cycle) – Hold the freezer door switch closed to allow the icemaker to complete the cycle (roughly 3 minutes) – when in the harvest mode, the lighted pulse will flash once every second.

Step 2 – Press in the emitter flapper door (opposite side of flashing light) to unblock the optics beam (make sure your hand is not blocking the beam as well).
What do you see? 2 options, option A and option B
A. Two pulses followed by a one second delay which is repeated over and over
If you see this:
1. The optics are faulty – Replaced the emitter and receiver boards (sold as a pair).
B. LED is steadily on
If you see this:
1. The optics are working properly – the problem exists in a different component.

This should at least get us started, please report back with findings if more assistance is needed and I can help from there.

Thank You

Hi Todd.
First make sure that the unit heats. See if the bake element or igniter comes on and gives a flame.. If that checks out good then test your temperature probe. At room temperature it should be about 1100 ohms. See if there is a diagnostic mode you can retrieve any stored error codes.

I would recommend installing a new evaperator fan motor on this unit.

I would recommend installing a new defrost heater and termination on this unit. The noise is the fan motor hitting the frost build up due to a defrost issue. See parts and video links below.

I would recommend replacing the inlet valve. See parts and video links below.

I would recommend starting at the door lock on this unit. It is a very common problem on this model. See parts and video links below

Jose, also the email address you registered with is not valid. Please email service@appliancevideo.com with a valid email address.

Most likely you do have a weak igniter. if valve ohms out properly and and igniter is getting 120 since it is glowing, the only viable problem would be a weak bake igniter. Even getting 3 amps to igniter does not guarantee that igniter does not have a weak spot.

Most of the time the cycle blinking light indicates an error code depend on how many times it blinks. They are prone to heater error issues which could be either board in line thermostat or heater. easiest way to find the issue is to get the tech sheet from either behind bottom panel or from behind door panel. once you get the tech sheet you can put through diagnostics or go straight to board and ohm out the heater and thermostat from board. from my experience the boards are the problem 75 percent of the time. to be certain though i would ohm out heater and thermostat and put through diag before ordering any parts.

Hi. Did you already verify the error code you get from the blinking light is for the unit not heating? This error will occur when the water temp. does not rise a certain amount during the cycle. This can be for a number of reasons including the unit not getting warm enough water. I would make sure its not an external issue first, then If you have already verified the heater is good then it’s either the thermal fuse for the heat circuit or your control board. There should be a tech sheet under the kick panel of your dishwasher. There will be a diagnostic mode you can run to check the heat circuit. Let me know if you need any further help.

I would start by checking the disconnect fuses at the unit , in most cases one or both of the fuses are open or defective. If you have 220 volts to the unit and both fuses are sending proper voltage I would look next at the run capacitor. See both video links below.

I would recommend removing the front cover and check the idler pulley. If the pulley is worn replace the idler pulley. If it is not worn you may have a transmission making noise. See parts and video links below.

I recommend installing a new drain tube kit and clearing the ice from the freezer.

I would recommend replacing the thermal fuse and thermostat on this unit. See parts and video links below.

When the ice maker drops one cycle are you putting the water in the first cycle or is it coming from the inlet valve ? What temperature are you getting in the ice room ? It needs to be at +16 degrees or lower to put the ice maker in the harvest cycle. We can move forward after you answer these questions.

Hi this is Cristian, an appliance technician at Ace Appliance. The Ohms rating should be anywhere from 1.2 Ohms- 2 ohms. + or – 10% each way for each side (top and bottom). If you still have issues please let me know.

Odds are it’s a blocked return-air duct at the bottom, or even an inefficient compressor. You may have to inspect the evaporator coil also to verify a full frost pattern & no blockage. If there was a previous air leak, the air duct could have been blocked with frost. Are you sure the fan blade is on right. Is the evaporator clear? Is There An Air Return port?

We had one with bad fresh food evaporator thermistor. Don’t bother to test. Passes test but fails under load. Actually, the board is using return DC voltage thru the thermister, normally 2.5 to 2.8 VDC, to determine temperature and make corrections. Resistance is something we use as a diagnostic aid, it is sometimes different when the resistor is under a load. Rule on GE thermisters: The evaporator thermister controls the defrost.The freezer thermister controls the damper and the temps in the freezer section.
We also had similar issue with a dual evaporator GE, for what it is worth, compressor running on low speed all the time. I replaced the fresh food evaporator thermistor and compressor started running at high speed once again. Sounds like the same issue you are having. If power was disconnected & reconnected, the compressor would run on high briefly and then return to low speed again with warm temps. Seems that the Fresh food thermistor is what the board is reading to change the input to compressor. That unit is still working 3 years later, revisited it again recently and was still chugging along, some units you don’t forget and surprised to see it still in the customers home! Good luck I hope this helps

Is you ice maker interlock switch in the closed position ? When the ice maker drops one cycle are you putting the water in the first cycle or is it coming from the inlet valve ? If it is poured in by you and dropping on the first cycle and you are getting water through the dispenser assembly you may have a defective dual water inlet valve. One side feeds the dispenser and the other fees the ice maker. If the solenoid to the ice maker is defective it will not fill the ice maker. You can test the solenoid by a continuity test. See link to part. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/samsung-refrigerator-parts/DA62-00914B/0046/401/model-RF263AEBPXAA0000/1482/0161000.html Let us know what you find. Matt Ace technician

TROUBLESHOOTING
Do not continue with the diagnostics of appliance if the
household fuse is blown, a circuit breaker is tripped or if there
is less than 120-volt power supply at the wall outlet.
Complete the following steps before checking microwave
oven circuitry:
1. Unplug microwave oven or disconnect power.
2. Check for loose wiring or incorrect wiring within
microwave oven.
3. Disconnect white wire from power transformer and
discharge high-voltage capacitor.
4. All testing must be done with an ohmmeter having a
sensitivity of 20,000 ohms per volt DC or greater, and
powered by at least a 9-volt battery.
5. All operational checks using microwave energy must be
done with the microwave oven loaded with a minimum of
8 oz (250 mL) of water in a microwave-safe container
Primary, Secondary, and Monitor Interlock Switch Checkout Procedure
Switch Check By Door Open Door Closed
Primary
Interlock
1. Unplug microwave oven or disconnect power.
2. Disconnect the wires at the Primary Interlock Switch.
3. Check from the common terminal (brown wires) to the normally
open terminal (brown/white wires).
– +
1. Unplug microwave oven or disconnect power.
2. Disconnect the wires at the Primary Interlock Switch.
3. Check from the common terminal (brown wires) to the normally
closed terminal (orange wire).
+ –
Secondary
Interlock
1. Unplug microwave oven or disconnect power.
2. Disconnect the wires at the Secondary Interlock Switch.
3. Check from the common terminal (blue wire) to the normally open
terminal (white/blue wires).
– +
Monitor
Interlock
1. Unplug microwave oven or disconnect power.
2. Disconnect the wires at the Monitor Interlock Switch.
3. Check from the common terminal (blue wire) to the normally
closed terminal (white/red wires).