All Answers

Replace both the User Interface and the main board in the kit. This is a common phenomenon with this product. Add a Cool Protector surge suppressor to the wall outlet to help ward off electrical issues from causing board damage. Has 4-minute time delay to prevent compressor damage.

Frigidaire, Electrolux,
Counter Depth Refrigerators
When replacing the main control board (Main Printed Circuit Board or PCB), it will sub to a
new part number. (See Chart below) The new Sigma Main Printed Circuit Board and new
User Interface boards must be replaced at the same time. Order both parts because the
original User Interface is not compatible with the new Sigma Main Printed Circuit Board. If
the User Interface board only needs to be replaced, the Main Printed Circuit Board does
not need to be replaced.
Should an Error occur after replacing the Sigma Main Printed Circuit Board, check the part
number on the User Interface. If it does not match one of the New User Interface part
numbers listed, order a replacement User Interface by model number.
When installing a replacement Sigma Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB), it may be
necessary to replace the User Interface board (UI) depending on the age of the refrigerator.
User Interface Board Main Control Board.

User Interface Board Main Control Board

*240596701
*240596702
240596704
240596704
241511101 **
241511111 115v
*240596703
240596705
241511102 **
241511112 115v
*240596801
240596803
241511109 **
241511115 115v
*240596802
240596804
241511107 **
241511113 220v
*241528201
241528203
241511108 **
241511114

My recommendation is to also replace the bias operating thermostat next to the thermal fuse. (4-wires)

Looking at the attached tech sheet, there should be both a dispenser door heater and a fountain heater behind the fascia. These are energized during any cooling cycle, perhaps one is bad, most likely the foil heater behind the fountain. In answer to your question about specific bulletins, I could see none pertaining to that issue, so let’s hope it’s just a bad heater.

Is it the circuit breaker at the breaker box or the GFI outlet that trips when you hit start? Try plugging in the washer to a non GFI outlet on a different circuit and see if that works.

If the compressor and both evaporator and condenser fan motors are running and you are not cooling in either freezer or refrigerator compartment.The next step would be to remove the freezer evaporator cover to see if the coil has an even frost pattern, if it does you should read -20 degree coil temperature. If you do not have an even frost pattern or any frost you have a sealed system problem. You would then need to put an access valve on the suction line to see if you have a low refrigerant charge or high suction pressure indicating a defective suction valve in the compressor. Matt Ace technician

If it is not locking it could be the door lock or control board. I would start by checking the error codes.

It does not sound like the door lock. If the washer is full of water the door will stay locked. The blinking light is a error code the washer is giving. Gain access to the tech sheet which should be under the bottom front panel. If not there, it could be under the top panel. Find out the error code according to the blinking light. This will lead you to your issue. Let me know if you need any further help.

look for air leaks I had one that freezer door was not closing did the same thing. in addition Frigidaire says to make sure that the air duct from the freezer up the back of the fresh food section has been taped all around so air must go up the vent. If that is not the issue we also had a couple of these under manufacturers warranty. Check on the back of the refrigerator and see if it is sweating where the line comes into the box. If so, Frigidaire had me send pics and they deemed the unit non repairable. Something to do with the insulation inside the unit. Hope this helps.

Yes that is correct, you cannot purchase anything separate on the control board unfortunately.

What was your original symptom ? Did you have a frosted evaporator ? If you had a frost build up on the evaporator called ( defrost issue ) and your heater and thermostat test good as per instructions above, this tells you to replace the board. Those are the only three components that will cause a defrost issue. If you had another symptom besides frost on the coil let us know and we can move to the next step. Matt Ace technician

HI. AT the bottom of the main board there is a big 3 pin connector. Take this connector off the board. IT will be labeled on the board DEF for defrost and LINE. These are the two wires on the connector you will test at. They are J11 (yellow) and J9 (brown) This will test for continuity through the defrost t-stat and heater. IF there is no continuity then one or both are bad. The defrost thermistor is tested a pins 5 and 4 of the J1 connector. You should have about 36k ohms at 5 degs. Let me know if you need any further help.

I looked at the diagram and could not find the diode separate from the complete assembly. I also consulted with another technician that verified it. He had one that was similar that he had to by the complete control. Matt Ace technician

Is the compressor and complete unit not running ? Including evaporator and condenser fan motor with the unit in the on position calling for cooling ? If nothing is running on this model you will need to start with the ERC or electronic control board. Do you have the technician sheet in thew unit for diagnostics ?

I would first check the fill level of the unit. Sometimes the air tube for the pressure switch that connects to the tub gets plugged with dirt/mold and allows the washer to overfill on large loads causing the water to splash over the top. Also I would fill the washer up remove the front panel and put the unit into a spin while looking at the underside of the tub where the transmission goes into the tub. It is also common for the tub seal to go bad on the older washers. This model number does not come up as valid so I am just going off what your saying as the age of the unit.

Todd
The defrost timer being in the defrost cycle too long is a slim possibility. With the top mounted compressors it is very common to have an impacted condenser causing the compressor to short cycle due to overheating. I would thoroughly clean the condenser. We blow out the condensers with C02 tank and put up a damp towel to catch the dust. I have provided a video on how to properly clan the condenser. Even though you do not see dust on the outside of the condenser in still can be impacted in the six inch thick condenser. This is our number one no cool service issue on the KitchenAid and SubZero models. Try this first and let us know if it works, if it does not help we can go to step two until we get the unit properly diagnosed and cooling . Matt Ace technician

I would recommend defrosting the evaperator and replacing the defrost heater. See part and video link below. Part number-wr51x10101

I would start by unplugging the unit, use a screwdriver to go across terminals on power plug or scratch on back on the unit (to ground out unit and reset board). With this dryer, it sounds to me you are having a lid lock issue. This should help unlock the unit, try to power up and hit cancel after this and do not pull on door until you hear a click. After this there should be 3 screws on the back to help take the top panel off and access this component, you can test for ohms by unplugging the lid-lock, putting your meter on the terminals, activate the lid-lock mechanism manually with you hand and you should have continuity. Beware though, a lid-lock could be bad and still test good if mechanism is sticking.

I would recommend installing a new lid switch on the unit see parts and video link below. Part number – 3949247

I would recommend replacing the ice maker on this unit. Part number-D7824706Q