All Answers

I would recommend installing a new ice maker if you have water and 115 volts to the ice maker. See parts link below and video on ice maker diagnostics.

I would recommend replacing the main control and the overlay. That is a F1 error code recommendation. Parts link below.

I would recommend checking to see if your upper oven latch is damaged. You code is a latch error. See parts link below.

I would recommend checking to make sure the condenser is clean and the water lines are not damaged. Unit may need a new tank and valve. See parts link below.

I would recommend looking at the control cavity fuse. If it is open or does not have continuity it will not let the unit turn on.

In my experience with this unit having this problem the most common fix is to replace the inlet valve

We have run into many control board issues. Very good possibility you will need a board. See parts link below.

With the symptom you have, I would start with your condenser and make sure it it clean from dust and dirt. Also check and make sure you hear your evaporator fan motor running after you open the refrigerator door. If its not running depress the door switch on the upper portion of the shell of the refrigerator, it may have a fan switch. If your compressor is running and you fan motor is not, check your motor for 115 volts. Matt Ace technician

This unit most likely needs a new main control board and possible a new fresh food door reed switch. See parts link below.

When experiencing this problem the most common solution is to replace the hood TCO and filter board.

When experiencing this issue the most common fix is to replace the control board. See parts link below.

Hello
From the description you are giving me and the symptoms, I am thinking you have a sealed system issue, a leak or defective compressor. Even if you have a plugged condenser you will not get a ball of ice on the evaporator. That is an indication of a starved evaporator coil. I would tap the suction line or process tube and check the refrigerant charge. I believe you will see a low refrigerant charge. Matt Ace technician

If you have the technician sheet put the 3-way refrigerant into the test 4 . Wait 30 minutes to see if you have a frost pattern on the freezer coil. That will put the valve into the neutral position and the valve if working properly will feed feed both evaporators. So you either have a defective three way valve or a sealed system issue, meaning low refrigerant charge or defective compressor. In most cases we 95% of the time we find that is a sealed system.

Hello
I have a few questions to give you the best possible answers to correctly fix the problem.
1) You say the compressor is cool, is the compressor running ? Can you check amprege to the compressor to verify it is running ?
2) If the compressor is running do you have a frost pattern on the evaporator ? You must have an even frost pattern across the evaporator if the compressor is running .
If you only have a partial frost pattern or no frost on the evaporator you have a sealed system leak or a bad suction valve in your compressor. If you have no amprege to your compressor that is telling us the compressor is not running and you need to check and see if you have 115 volts to the compressor. If you do not you may have a main control board not sending power down to the overload and relay. Here is a prats link below. Let us know what you find Matt Ace technician .

In my experience with this unit it needs the bellow replaced. See parts link below

Unit may need new lid switch and dog agit. See parts link below.

In my experience i would say that this unit needs new rear drum supports and a new idler pulley.

When this problem occurs unit most likely needs no thermostat. Parts link below

When having this problem occur the most common solution is to install a new defrost heater, remove all ice buildup from evaporator coils, then check for airflow. See defrost heater video and Parts link below.

When having this issue the most common fix is to clear any debris from the drain pump.