All Answers

Here is the model breakdown on your GE washer. We do not have videos on this model but I did a request to put in in the to do list for the appliance to tape. Matt Ace Appliance

Good afternoon Todd,
Is the washer displaying any type of error code? Usually if there is any type of error there will be a customer viewable fault code that will show up to the consumer. If there is an error code appearing this would be very helpful to further help with diagnosing the issue. Also are you sure that there is good water pressure getting to the unit through both hot and cold lines? If there is a low water supply the unit will time out and terminate all further activity. However in this instance an error code will appear and it will usually activate the drain pump.

Hi. So far you have eliminated the re-settable t-stat being the issue because you have replaced it and it made no different. So you most likely have 1 of 2 things causing the t-stat to trip. IF you are not getting good air flow out of the dryer the t-stat will trip. Make sure the dryer blower housing as well as the lint filter are clean.you should be able to blow through the filter or run water through it will no obstructions. After you remove the lint filter reach up at the top of where the filter sits and remove any lint build up there. I find lint there a lot of times that will cause issues like this. Make sure your vent from the back of the dryer to the outside of the house is cleaned. We recommend cleaning your vent yearly. IF venting is not the issue you could have a heating element that is shorted. It may not be shorted when you test it, But as it heats up it can expand and touch the metal housing around it which grounds it, causing it to heat constantly through the cycle eventually tripping the t-stat. I would replace the element after you have checked venting and your 100% sure that its not a air flow issue. Let me know if you need any further help and good luck!

Just verified with the manufacture that the CCU is no longer available. The only option would be to have the board rebuilt.There are some for sale on E bay, but I would not recommend it. Here is a link to a company that may be able to rebuild the CCU for you. http://www.corecentricsolutions.com/ .You could also give the fix you found on you tube a try if you feel comfortable doing it. Sounds like what you found is basically rebuilding the faulty part on the board. You could also contact the manufacture and see if they can help you somehow, because they are no longer producing the CCU.

Yes, I would replace the CCU as long as all other checks have been done. We know its the the switch since it has been replaced. I would take off the pressure hose, put your finger over one end and blow in the other end to see if it has a hole in it. Some times they are very small and hard to find. If everything else is good, then replace the CCU. The part shows that it is no longer available. As soon as we find out a good part number for the CCU I will attach a link for you.

Hi. I will help you with your washer.
The F35 error code is for an
ANALOG PRESSURE SENSOR FAILURE.

If this failure is displayed, the Central Control Unit has detected
a malfunction of the analog pressure sensor.
Check if pressure hose is fixed correctly and without holes or damage.
Check if the airtrap is not blocked.
Check if the hose is not blocked.

The SUDS error code is described as
SUDS LOCK (OVERDOSE OF DETERGENT DETECTED DURING THE
WASH CYCLE)

If suds are detected continuously by the pressure switch during a drain and spin the washer will fill with water, and for 5 minutes
the washer will pause, then drain and try to spin again.
Possible Causes/Procedure
If too much detergent was used:
Run through a RINSE/SPIN cycle.
Run a NORMAL cycle without adding any detergent.
This should clear the washer of the excess detergent.
Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked.
Unplug washer or disconnect power.
Check wire harness connections to the drain pump, pressure switch,
and Central Control Unit (CCU).
Check/clean drain pump filter of foreign objects.
Plug in washer or reconnect power.
Check drain pump.
Check the pressure switch.
Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic Test or any cycle.

So make sure you are using HE soap and not causing a SUDS condition. IF the issue is not with SUDS then I would first check your pressure hose. Remove the pressure hose from the pressure switch and blow through it to make sure it is not clogged. Inspect the hose very carefully for any holes. I often find that the hose will come out of its clip at the back of the washer and then it will rest against the stator as is spins causing a hole. If you find no issues I would replace your pressure switch. IF that does not take care of it then your CCU is the issue. Let me know if you need any further help. I have attached a link to a video to show you how gain access and replace the pressure switch. This is not your exact model or the exact pressure switch on your washer. We are currently working on getting our own repair video for this unit.

Try to looking up LG parts on Encompassparts.com. Normally they will offer both boots, with or without hole.

https://www.encompassparts.com/item/6161253/LG/4986ER0004B/Gasket_(No_Hole)

If the doors were removed to transport the unit , there is a small plug at the freezer hinge cover that feeds power to the dispenser assembly. I would make sure the plug is in securely and non of the pin connections were damaged.

Bake, broil and convection elements are used to preheat. large oven, it needs to heat all that metal. I have been telling my customers for a few years to preheat 45 minutes to allow for best cooking results.The hidden bake element is dual element. We have also seen several element burns out. This will cause slow preheat. Convection elements do not come on during preheat. Only bake elements and broil. Remove lower front panel. You will see element plug. Can ohm out or check amp draw from front of unit.

Hi. I will be able to help you with your washer. There could be a few different things that would cause your washer to not drain and spin. The most common would be a lid lock issue or a drain pump issue. Does the washer lock the lid? Can you hear the drain pump trying to run? It will sound like a humming noise. You may have to press your ear up against the cabinet to hear this. There should also be error codes stored in the system for what ever issue you are having with the unit. Lets start by checking for error codes. I have attached a video link that will walk you through getting into diagnostic mode and checking the error codes. I have attached a second video to show how to open the top of the unit to get to the tech sheet. Once you have the top of the unit flipped up you can get to the tech sheet which is located in a plastic bag attached to the top right corner of the front of the washer. This will have the error codes listed in it. Let me know what you find out.

Hi. We currently do not have a video on this repair for your model. This is an older unit and most of our videos are focused towards the new appliances. We will work on getting a video for this repair, but in the mean time I have found you a video for your repair to help you get it done. If you need any further help just let me know and good luck! Below is the link to the video.

Loud noise could be (pump/motor?). There are only a couple of moving parts in a dishwasher, and they are both under the unit. I would remove the lower panel and look for signs of water leakage onto the motor, floor or surrounding area underneath which might indicate pump or motor damage. I would still suspect the main motor regardless, as it would probably be what the customer heard making noises.

Diagnostics
Unplug range or disconnect power before performing the following checks:
■ A potential cause of a control not functioning is corrosion on
connections. Observe connections and check for continuity with an
ohmmeter.
■ All tests/checks should be made with a VOM or DVM having a
sensitivity of 20,000Ω per volt DC or greater.
■ Check all connections before replacing components, looking for
broken or loose wires, failed terminals, or wires not pressed into
connectors far enough. Damaged harness must be entirely replaced.
Do not rework a harness.
■ Resistance checks must be made with power cord unplugged from
outlet, and with wiring harness or connectors disconnected.
Diagnostics Menu
To Enter Diagnostics Mode:
Before proceeding with any corrective action, perform the following steps
to enter the Diagnostics mode.
1. Enter Diagnostics mode and verify error codes by pressing OFF, OFF,
START.
2. If control does not enter Diagnostics, repeat steps.
General Procedure: Diagnostic Tests
1. Plug in range or connect power.
2. Set clock.
3. Enter Diagnostics Menu – Extended Mode.
4. Press RELAY ACTIVATION.
5. Press BAKE.
6. Press ENGAGE to engage relay.
7. Verify relay is working.
8. Press RELEASE to release relay.
9. Press BACK to recall previous menu.
10. Repeat steps 4 through 8 for INNER BROIL, OUTER BROIL,
CONVECT RING, and STEAM BOILER.
11. Press BACK to enter Diagnostic Main Menu.
12. Press ERROR CODES to display last error codes.
13. Press CLEAR ALL to clear all error codes. Additional confirmation is
required.
14. Press CAVITY SIZE from Diagnostic Main Menu to enter Menu A.
15. Menu A allows modification to the oven model.
16. Press BACK to return to the Diagnostic Main Menu.
W10284342A FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY
Tech Sheet Do not discard
WARNING
Electrical Shock Hazard
Disconnect power before servicing.
Replace all parts and panels before operating.
Failure to do so can result in death or electrical shock.
Software copyrighted. This product is covered by one or more of the
following patents U.S. Patent Nos.

These are tricky because there are occasions when you need both but not as likely. I’d start with the panel and see if that does the trick, and then do the board as well if necessary. It’d be nice if you could return the board and not need it so let’s hope for the best. I’ll attach the parts below just in case you don’t already have the information.

Kraig, some are just more difficult than others. Our guys normally suggest soaking them in warm water to make them more pliable if they are extremely stiff or tight. But it really is just starting at one point and getting it worked on all the way around. I’ll attach a video of a similar one just to get an idea. Hope this helps!

We do indeed, Fred. It’s listed here (33002855) and linked below for you. Thanks for stopping by!

It sounds like you did everything right, and you’re correct in assuming that it’ll be worth having the pump information unless they just decide to buy new. But it’s linked below with a repair video as well. Glad to be of some help to you!

We don’t either unfortunately. Part number is W10155351 so you may have to keep doing a little digging to find a vendor who has it in. Sorry! Good luck.

Gary, this happens a lot when the door has been left ajar or not closed completely. that warm air creates a lot of ice/frost on items and then eventually disappears when closed up and left to reset on it’s own if caught fairly early on. Hope that helps!