Take a look at the video below, could the idler arm (6913660) be the issue? I’d start there and let us know what you find.

James, my first instinct would be to check the motor if you’re in front of the unit or are planning on being near it soon. If it’s cooling down and then starting up, I’d bet it’s failing and that’s why you can’t start it back up right away. Let us know what you find!

Harley, it most likely is, but if you could physically make sure before ordering it, that would be your best bet. Most vendors won’t let you return it if you install it and it ends up being a different problem. But if everything else checks out I’d start with that.

David, it sounds like it. I’ll link the part below as well as some videos if you want some additional diagnostic help or just a guide for the repair. Good luck!

Hello, have you by chance tested and/or replaced the temp sensors in each oven cavity? The part numbers I see listed are not the same as what I see when looking up the model number. The sensor part number I see is W10131825. It is the same part number for each cavity. Please test to see what the ohms reading is at room temperature. Should be right around 1100 give or take a few.

This unit Integrated into the water inlet valve is a flow sensor that reads back to the
control board. I’ve replaced two of these under warranty for
weird ice maker complaints. You have to order it as the water valve. If you ask for a flow valve control you will get the wrong thing. Send the tech with the littlest hands as possible:) It can be changed from the front but its tight underneath beside
the drain pan.

This sounds like is a failed relay on the main power board, which controls the heater and motor relays. Additionally, if it has the black thermister, replace it with the new style white one. Some of the black ones test okay with a meter, but fail under the voltage load.

If you have any of theses following error codes T7, 265, T4, E8, T9, DL, E6, FE, LE, PE, TE, on this LG washer go to the link below for diagnostics. https://www.appliancevideo.com/appliances/lg-wt1001cw-washer/

On this refrigerator you will need to press the energy saver key and the alarm key simultaneously for 8- seconds. All error codes will stay stored in unit if Error occurred. To get out of diagnostic mode you must unplug unit for 3-minutes. For other diagnostics and repairs click on the link below. https://www.appliancevideo.com/appliances/samsung-rf263teaesr-refrigerator/

Hello Todd,
Yes a commercial heat gun can be used however you will want to be careful not to let the evaporator get too hot. If there is oil in the evaporator/capillary tube depending on the heat gun you could run the risk of burning the oil (it would have to get pretty hot) or melting the plastic on the back wall or sides. If you do try to heat the evaporator up with a heat gun just heat it up to a fairly even temperature however I would still recommend using the 100 watt light bulb and waiting the full 24 hours after to heating up the evaporator with the heat gun. The last thing you want to do is start that compressor up too early before all the oil has made its way back down. Hope this helps Good luck.

Yes, it will help but make sure you give it 24 hours in the upright position. Also be careful with the heat gun on melting plastic components. You can also add heat on the capillary tube with the heat gun if accessible.

Todd
What happens when you lay a refrigerator on its side is called a restriction in the evaporator or capillary tube. When the unit gets laid on its side, the oil from the compressor migrates up into the evaporator restricting the refrigerant flow from its normal process. Since there are no check valves in the suction and discharge lines of the compressor the oil just flows up to the evaporator and restricts refrigerant flow when its laid on its side. There are two things to try. 1) Take apart the evaporator cover and put a 100 watt lead light about six inches from the aluminum evaporator for 24 hours, this warms up the oil and it it flow back down to the compressor. make sure it far enough from any plastic parts in the freezer so it does not melt any of them. We have recommended this method and found it works 70% of the time. 2) If that does not work the only other option is to replace the evaporator and heat ex-changer, this can be very expensive . Good luck and let us know how it turns out. Thanks Matt Ace technician

We had two occasions when the customer’s complaint was “door” in the display. One work order said they reset the circuit breaker and all was fine, the other work order said the tech found a bad connection on the disconnect plug in the back.

There are 29 videos and fault codes for this refrigerator at ApplianceVideo.com. Check out the link below.

See 9- video links below on diagnostics.

As on most of these units, an open defrost sensor will fault the unit out. The sensor is mounted on the evaporator, and preferably on the inlet side. There were some models which the sensor was factory-installed on the wrong tube, so pay attention to this detail when checking the sensor and the defrost heater.
RF26XAEBP/XAA
RF26XAEPN/XAA
RF26XAERS/XAA
RF26XAEWP/XAA
French Door Refrigeration
Press Freezer button a
third time to Force Low
Speed Run
Wait 5 seconds between button pushes
Press Freezer button a
forth time to Force Defrost
of Fridge & Freezer,
measure defrost voltage
at main PCB
Press Freezer button one
time at the Test Mode to
Force Compressor High
Speed Run, measure fan
and Compressor voltages
at main PCB
Self Diagnosis: Press both buttons (Energy
Saver– Alarm) simultaneously (No sound
when both buttons are pressed at the same
time) ‟til the display quits blinking and
beeps, 8-12 seconds, then release and read
Fault Codes.
This will also cancel the Fault Mode created
by self-diagnosis at power up.
Publication # tsRF26XAE Revision Date 11/24/2010
Component Value Chart
Press Freezer button a
second time to Force
Mid Speed Run
3600RPM 2450RPM 2200RPM
Condenser Fan Delay: (Ambient Sensor) Below 60℉ Condenser-Fan is OFF regardless of the comp. operation.
NOTICE: Parts Change
RF26XAEBP 11/10
Refer to bulletin.
All Handles
SUPPORT INFORMATION
Training — Plus One http://my.plus1solutions.net/clientPortals/samsung/
Help — GSPN http://service.samsungportal.com/
Forced Mode: Press both buttons (Energy Saver– Fridge)
simultaneously (No sound when both buttons are pressed at the
same time) „til it beeps and goes blank, 8-12 seconds.
Sealed System
Component Resistance Wattage Voltage
Freezer Defrost Heater 60Ω 240 120vac
Fridge Defrost Heater 120Ω 120 120vac
French Mullion Heater 1800Ω 8 120vac
Ice Duct Heater 3600Ω 4 120vac
Dispenser Heater 7200Ω 2 120vac
Water Tank Heater 72Ω 2 12vdc
Sensors 2.5kΩ-89kΩ N/A 1~4.5vdc
Fans N/A N/A 7~12vdc
Sales Mode, No Compressor Operation: Press Energy
Saver & Freezer temp buttons simultaneously for 3 sec
( you will hear a “Ding Dong”) to remove or put into Sales
Mode. When in the Sales Mode the Display will show “OF”
“OF”: Removing power will not cancel this mode.
Refrigerant Charge
R134a 5.64 oz.
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE – “For Technicians only” This service data sheet is
intended for use by persons having electrical, electronic, and mechanical experience and
knowledge at a level generally considered acceptable in the appliance repair trade. Any
attempt to repair a major appliance may result in personal injury and property damage.
The manufacturer or seller cannot be responsible, nor assume any liability for injury or
damage of any kind arising from the use of this data sheet.

tsRF26XAE

There are 13 videos and fault codes for this refrigerator at ApplianceVideo.com. Check out the link below.

If the tub vent is not opening this would that not cause the steam to vent thru the air gap on the inlet? It has to vent somewhere. Remove the front panel. Run the suggested diagnostics on the sheet to determine if the vent is opening from the control, not by direct jumper. If there is a triac in the control which is bad, it cannot provide sustained current to the vent motor.

You need to do a proper resistance check on every thermister in the unit. Easily done by disconnecting the J1 and there they all are. Intermittent fan failure is also a problem on this unit, and causes freezing due to reverse airflow thru the return air grill. Hope this helps.

There are 12 videos and fault codes for this range at ApplianceVideo.com. Check out the link below.
WFE510S0AW – White
WFE510S0AS – Stainless Steel
WFE510S0AB – Black
WFE510S0AD – Universal Silver
WFE510S0AT – Bisque

https://www.appliancevideo.com/appliances/wh01-wfe510s0a/