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In reply to: start button issue

David, could be the start button is failing again so check that, but could also be an issue with the motor. Part # is WE17M66. We do stock it if you end up needing it.

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Kraig, that sounds like the motor if it is finishing the cycles normally. Am assuming it’s on it’s way out. For this model it’s a 661600. I’ll add the link for it below.

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In reply to: Loud & Not Cooling

Sounds like all the tests and checks we would do as well. I think you covered your bases on this one. Well done!

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That hose does match that model, so if you’re sure that’s what it needs, you’ll be good to go. Good job!

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Fred, I’ll add the link for the replacement video and part. Good luck! Part# is 12400035.

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Sure Gary, part number is WR60X10170 and we do stock it, I’ll add the link here for you.

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In reply to: icemaker not working

Not a problem. I/M part is 5303918277 and we do stock it. Info below!

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Hi. Yes, it does sound like you have a defrost system issue. To make this as easy as possible I will tell you how I would diagnose what part is faulty, if indeed you have a defost system failure. First of all, you with either have a defrost timer or Adaptive defrost control (ADC), not both. An ADC takes the place of a defrost timer on new electronic units. If you have an ADC and you have access to the tech sheet on this unit there usually is a daignostic mode that you can force the unit to go into defrost. I would gain access to the heater and defrost thermostat (defrost termination) and check them for conticuity. Note that the defrost thermostat is temperature sensitive and needs to be checked when the temperature is below the rating of the defrost T-stat. If both of these test good then the only componets that are left are the ADC/timer and a sensor if the sensor is present. Not all defrost systems have a defrost/evaporator sensor. If no sensor, then you know everything else in the system tested good and the only part that is left that could be faulty is the timer/ADC. WIth the schematic or tech sheet you could also test for conticuity from the timer or ADC through the defrost system. This will tell you if you have continuity through the heater and defrost t-stat. If you dont you know your issue is with those parts. If you do have continity then you would know your issue is in the timer/ADC or evaporator sensor. I am working on getting you the parts break down of this unit and should have them posted of here soon.

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In reply to: not starting

James, door switch is 3406107 and I’ll add the information below.

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David, I’ll add the link below. Part# is 5303931775.

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5E code. If your dishwasher has been running fine for awhile then throws a 5E code chances are it could be the pump or a blocked hose or filter but chances are its not.
Disconnect the drain hose and run the hose into a bucket to see if the hose or filter is clogged or pump is working. These machines only use about 2 gallons of water and the pressure is very low its easy to do in a bucket. If number 2 occurs, its not a clogged hose or filter or pump issue the machine is not even cycling.

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Sounds like the ignitor ? Put a amprobe on the ignitor wires to see if enough amps are there.

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In reply to: Has F11 error code.

Trace your wires from the blue wire connector at the MCU to the CCU. It sounds like a possible worn connector at the CCU.
They are usually repairable rather than replacing the CCU. Also the door lock switches and the CCU is about it. The door lock provides 120 VAC to the MCU, the CCU provides the DC frequency to run the motor once all 3 internal switches of the lock are closed. Look for 5 VDC at the motor control on the low voltage harness which comes from the CCU once the door has locked and the circuit is complete.

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In reply to: KENMORE ELITE

Hi. Sounds like an electrical problem. Is this gas or electric? Shorted wiring or loose connection. First check for proper power at the outlet and at the terminal block on the dryer that the cord attaches to. Inspect the cord and wiring in the dryer for damage or loss connections. I would start with this and proceed if needed. Let me know if you need further assistance.

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Kraig, that belt is a 661570 and we do stock it.

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In reply to: F9 E1 Error

Fred, we do, it’s a W10425238 and I’ll add the link here for you.

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In reply to: two burners not right

We can definitely help you out. That Infinite dual control switch is a WB24T10063 and it is something we stock. Take a look at the link below for specifics.

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Without a model I can’t give a specific part # but it sounds like the ignitor. These ovens have one for the right and left side normally. If you can find the model we can see if it’s in stock.

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Gary, the few times we’ve had this happen, it’s due to dirt/debris/residue build up around the ignitor and burner area. A good cleaning should take care of it, but let us know once you get there if there’s any other issues. Good luck!

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We’d be happy to help! Damper Assembly is a 241600902 and I’ll add the purchase link with pricing and availability below. Thanks for stopping by!

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