All Answers

Sure, that agitator assembly is a 3951744 and I’ll link it for you here below. Hope this repair goes well for you!

Gary, thank you! Always appreciate reminders for the service community on simple fixes.

Not a problem on this, and we’re happy to be here to help! Board is WR55X10942 & Thermistors are WR55X10025. Link below! Good luck with this.

If you have proper voltage at the water inlet valve and the tube is not restricted. I would next remove the line off the inlet valve going to the dispenser and energize it by calling for water from the dispenser paddle. If you have voltage at the solenoid and no water through the valve, replace the dual valve in the link below. link #187 part #WR57X10082 Matt Ace technician

What is the make of the dishwasher?

If the unit seems to be overfilling and you have already replaced the pressure switch (water level switch) then all that would be left would be a hole in the air tube going to the pressure switch or a control board issue. If the unit is adding water when the unit is not running at all or unplugged then you have a sticking solenoid in the inlet vale. I would check the air tube very well (especially any points of contact with the outer tub or around zip ties for small holes in the tube). If no holes are found in the air tube then the control board is most likely the problem.

There is a parts breakdown below it also shows the screws that hold it on and a gasket. Sometimes the gasket can hold it in place after the screws are removed . I think it could be the gasket sticking if all screws are removed. Matt Ace technician

Click on the link below for the inlet tube parts breakdown. The inlet tube part number is W10238092. Its number #3 on the breakdown. Hope this helps. Matt Ace technician

Hello Sean,
I had answer your question, but I never did get an answer to mine. Please see my response to your question as what else can be missing on this dryer. Also, do you provide wiring diagrams on this equipment. It would be helpful if I can see what should be happening in the circuit. I await your response. Thank you.
Roland

Good day Sean’
Thanks Gentlemen for your support.
I mean that the glow bar comes on, flame sensor opens, pilot valve open, however, the main burner coil will not open and the unit shuts off the pilot flame in a matter of seconds. it’s behaving as though the flame is still not being proofed by the system for safe conditions. We checked all the safeties first before we decided to change the Gas valve. The duct is removed from the unit to ensure proper venting from the unit, which rule out lint blockage. Do you know the amp that we should be reading from the glow bar when it’s glowing. I am thinking I may have a faulty glow bar or sensor. However, the Tech sheet info. is not with this unit. Have you experience this type of behavior with any other unit before. I have already removed and replace the Gas valve, still this condition exist. Does this help.

See video link below on the updated video for the drain issues on the Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Maytag & Roper units. This will correct your issue. Matt Ace technician

This is a very common problem on Whirlpool, Kenmore , Maytag & KitchenAid units. See video link below to correct your issue.

David
We have a video on this model. See link below.

Here is the only information we have on this unit. Hope it helps.

lower, left hand rear corner of the range as viewed
from the front.
a) Depending on the model, remove the storage
drawer, broiler drawer or false panel to access the
regulator. Some models with a broiler drawer will have
a metal cover over the regulator that must be removed
for conversion and reinstalled when conversion is
complete.
b) Remove the Large hex-nut which is located in the
center of the regulator. Remove the plastic pin from the
bottom side of the cap, turn the pin 180 degrees and
snap the pin back into the cap. There are raised letters
on the flat side of the plastic pin, “NAT” and “LP”. In the
“LP” position the end of the pin marked “NAT” should be
snapped into the bottom of the hex-nut.
CONVERSION TO LP (PROPANE) GAS
4. Check quality of the flames
The combustion quality of the burner flames needs
to be determined visually.
NOTE: If burner flames look like (A). Further air
shutter adjustment is required. Normal burner
flames should look like (B) or (C), depending on
the type of gas you use. With LP gas, some
yellow tipping on the outer cones is normal.
(A) Yelow Flames:
Further Adjustment
Required
B) Yellow tips on
outer cones:
Normal for LP Gas
(C) Soft Blue flames:
Normal for Natural Gas.
Color coding is used in identifying the correct location.
e) The prevent leakage, make sure the orifice spuds
are securely screwed into the gas supply tubes.
f) Install the old NG orifice spuds into the metal
bracked and place back on the range for possible
2. Converting the surface burners future conversion.
a) LP orifice spuds are located at the back of the storage/
broiler drawer compartment. The spud are in a metal
bracket next to the pressure regulator and are attatched
to the back wall of the compartment by a 1/4″ hex head
screw. An LP conversion instruction sheet is also
located in this area. (see above picture)
b) Removed grates, burner caps, and burner heads.
c) Remove the Brass Orifice Spud in the chimney of
each burner using a 9/32″ or 7 mm nut driver.
The top burner orifices can be removed by
removing the burner caps and burner heads.
Use 7 millimeter nutdriver to access the orifice.
NOTE: The orifices have spring loaded retaining
rings around the hex head to hold the orifice in
the nutdriver during installation and removal.
A slight amount of force is required to push the
nutdriver down over the ring.
d) Install the LP orifice spuds into their correct
positions as described as follows.
A series of marks (I;II or III) are engraved on the
top of the orifices to denote the location of the
orifice as shown in the illustration.
The marks appear on both the LP and Natural Gas
orifices.The locations indicated by the marks are
the same for both gasses.
RETAINER
RING
TO REMOVE MOTOR CONVECTION
1.- Remove Oven Door
2.- Remove (6) 1/4″ hex head screws from fan cover
3.- Remove nut from fan blade and remove fan blade
4.- Remove (4) 1/4″ hex head screws from motor support
5.- Pull the motor straight out and disconnect the wires
183D9456P001
3. Converting the oven / broil burner orifices
a) Remove oven door, storage/broiler drawer and
oven bottom. The oven burner orifice hood is
located behind the storage/broiler drawer (Non-self
clean models, a metal shield must be removed). The
broil burner orifice hood is located on the right upper
corner of the oven cavity.
b) To convert to LP, use a 1/2″ wrench to turn the
orifice hoods clockwise until it is snug with the base,
approximately 2 1/2 turns. To prevent damage when
converting back to Natural Gas, do not over tighten
the hood.
c) Open the air shutter on the burners to the full
open position and adjust as needed.
5. Top burner flame adjustments
The top burners do not have air shutters and
fixed, non adjustable orifices are used. If the
flames blow off the burner or have yellow tips,
check the following:
Gas pressure: 5″ Natural gas 10″ LP gas.
Inspect orifice to be sure it is drilled on center
and free of debris or burrs.
Be sure the correct size orifice is in the proper
location (see “Orifice Identification” section of
this sheet).
Make sure the range was properly converted if
on LP gas.
COLOR SYMBOL
RED R
WHITE W
ORANGE O
GREEN G
YELLOW Y
VIOLET V
BLUE N
GRAY S
BLACK B
BROWN C
WHITE/RED W/R
WHITE/BLACK W/B
WHITE/BLUE W/N
Y Y Y
W
MOTOR
FAN
W
R R
V
LF
SW
MID
SW
RR
SW
RF
SW
N D2
BROIL
GLOWBAR D1
V
F2
F1 C7 V
C2 R
N
C3
C9
W
N
R
N
C1
C5
C
N
O W
W
MOTOR
LATCH
R
N
W
CONTROL
VALVE
CONTROL
VALVE
W
OVEN
LIGHT
R A1
PLUNGER
SWITCH
A2
POWER SUPPLY
CONNECTOR
W
W H2
BAKE
GLOWBAR H1
C6
V C8 S
N W
L
Y

There is a possible burned R-22 resistor on the machine control board up top. If so, the wax motor in the door needs to be replaced if this is the case. Using the failed resistor number and the chart below, identify the origin of the current overload, and take the corrective action specified.

R9 Pressure Switch
Check for loose wire connections or
high resistance on switch contacts;
change Pressure Switch if
Necessary. Replace Machine
Control Board.
R11 Door Lock Wax Motor
R51 Hot Water Valve
Solenoid
Check for loose wire connections.
Control .
Replace Water Valve & Machine
Board
R52 Timer Motor
Replace Machine Control Board
loose connections at the
terminals)
(Check for
Relay .
R53
Cold Water Valve
Solenoid
Check for loose wire connections.
Control .
Replace Water Valve & Machine
Board
R143 (-) 24 VDC
A contact was made between
Neutral and the 24 VDC circuit.
Check for loose wire connections.
Replace Machine Control Board.
R162 Overall Electrical Buffer
Circuit For Board
Check for loose wire connections.
Control .
Replace Wire Harness & Machine

Good day Brian,
I changed out the relay board and the interface board. The initial problem was the PF error code will not go away. No matter what you tried. I will try that and let you know what happens.
Thank you
Roland

Hi. The first thing I would try is to reset the unit. Even if you have tried this before installing the new parts. Remove power to the unit for 5 mins and plug it back in . Next, I would try to enter diagnostic mode by pressing cancel, cancel, start within 5 seconds. See if it lets you enter diagnostic mode and check for any error codes here. DO you have access to the tech sheet on this model? Also, what part numbers did you install? Let me know what you find out.

Good day Sean’
Thanks Gentlemen for your support.
I mean that the glow bar comes on, flame sensor opens, pilot valve open, however, the main burner coil will not open and the unit shuts off the pilot flame in a matter of seconds. it’s behaving as though the flame is still not being proofed by the system for safe conditions. We checked all the safeties first before we decided to change the Gas valve. The duct is removed from the unit to ensure proper venting from the unit, which rule out lint blockage. Do you know the amp that we should be reading from the glow bar when it’s glowing. I am thinking I may have a faulty glow bar or sensor. However, the Tech sheet info. is not with this unit. Have you experience this type of behavior with any other unit before. I have already removed and replace the Gas valve, still this condition exist. Does this help.

Thanks
Roland

Hello Roland,

When you say it will not start “full heat” do you mean that the dryer doesn’t heat at all? Or does the flame not stay on long enough?
If the flame isn’t staying on long enough, it could be one of a couple things. First, I would check to make sure that the venting is not clogged to going outside the home. Second, it could be the thermistor on the blower housing and or the electronic control which would not keep the flame on long enough.
If the flame won’t come on at all, it could be a couple other items. First, it could be any of the thermostats thermistors or fuses on the unit, you can Oma with an ohmmeter to check the resistance on each of those components the thermostats and fuses should be normally closed the thermistor you should get a resistance reading. First, it could be any of the thermostats thermistors or fuses on the unit, you can Oma with an ohmmeter to check the resistance on each of those components the thermostats and fuses should be normally closed the thermistor you should get a resistance other options for no flame at all, the igniter, the flame sensor, the motor switch, or the electronic control. You should be able to test the flame sensor with your own meter and check for continuity, and your igniter with your own meter to check for resistance value.
If you can clarify to me which of the flame issues you’re having, no flame at all or not staying on long enough I will try to respond with some more detailed information. Hopefully this helps somewhat

Sean

I know that when you replaced the gas valve you had turn off the shut off valve. But have you verified that you have gas going to the unit checked to see if any other shut offs inline might have been bumped or turned off? If the ignitor is glowing and the burner is not coming on then all I have ever seen bad was the gas valve. I would also verify that you have proper airflow otherwise your burner will short cycle on the hi limit thermostat. Hope this helps.