All Answers

Hello Roland,

When you say it will not start “full heat” do you mean that the dryer doesn’t heat at all? Or does the flame not stay on long enough?
If the flame isn’t staying on long enough, it could be one of a couple things. First, I would check to make sure that the venting is not clogged to going outside the home. Second, it could be the thermistor on the blower housing and or the electronic control which would not keep the flame on long enough.
If the flame won’t come on at all, it could be a couple other items. First, it could be any of the thermostats thermistors or fuses on the unit, you can Oma with an ohmmeter to check the resistance on each of those components the thermostats and fuses should be normally closed the thermistor you should get a resistance reading. First, it could be any of the thermostats thermistors or fuses on the unit, you can Oma with an ohmmeter to check the resistance on each of those components the thermostats and fuses should be normally closed the thermistor you should get a resistance other options for no flame at all, the igniter, the flame sensor, the motor switch, or the electronic control. You should be able to test the flame sensor with your own meter and check for continuity, and your igniter with your own meter to check for resistance value.
If you can clarify to me which of the flame issues you’re having, no flame at all or not staying on long enough I will try to respond with some more detailed information. Hopefully this helps somewhat

Sean

I know that when you replaced the gas valve you had turn off the shut off valve. But have you verified that you have gas going to the unit checked to see if any other shut offs inline might have been bumped or turned off? If the ignitor is glowing and the burner is not coming on then all I have ever seen bad was the gas valve. I would also verify that you have proper airflow otherwise your burner will short cycle on the hi limit thermostat. Hope this helps.

A common occurance! Thanks!

We don’t carry this one unfortunately, but it’s a WH12X10544, and called the user interface board. Good luck on this!

Gary, not a problem. Your electronic control is 318414213 and it is something we keep in stock if needed. Hopefully it’s just a broken wire or loose harness and you can be in the clear, but good luck regardless!

Sorry to hear this! Hopefully you stock the correct one, it’s W10247394. We stock it as well but that doesn’t do you much good for getting them running today. Hope you can figure something out on this one! Linked the part information below for you.

James, you should be able to pull it off, re-position it, and then just re-glue it or adhesive it into the correct place. No need to replace it if it’s still working fine otherwise, just have to get it cosmetically looking right and in position. Good luck!

Sure Harley, that gas valve assembly is 5221EL2002A and we do stock it. Information is linked below for you.

David, sounds like it is the main control but check the overlay as well, occasionally we do find them bad. Here’s the part number for the board: 316557108. And we do have it in stock. I’ll link it for you to find pricing information. Glad to help!

We unfortunately, do not. We work on them as well but don’t stock the replacement parts, we order out from a local vendor. I can at least get you part information though: Heat Exchanger is 7014690 & the FF Evap is 4204440. Hope this helps a little bit.

Appreciate this Kraig! We do see a lot of clogged venting and are realizing they’re definitely not cleaned out enough. Thanks for taking the time to hop on here!

Fred, it’s actually very possible that’s your issue. Especially on these freezer units when you may not be in and out of them very often, even a little bit of constant warm air getting inside will cause serious problems over time. I’d definitely suggest getting the gasket replaced, it is a bit on the pricey side, but will keep that unit in perfect working order for quite some time more I’d guess. I’ll link it here for you. Part# is 4357142.

Not a problem at all. The Ignitor is a 8054129 and I’ll add the link below for you. Hopefully you won’t need it!

We’ve ran into this before, and on those few times, we just strapped the line to keep it in place. Sometimes when new lines are unwound and put up, and then the unit is pushed back into place, they get creased or bent and then eventually it kinks and cuts off your flow to the unit altogether. Sounds like you’ve got it handled though and did the right thing.

Gary, you sure can. Here’s the knob: WH1X2754; dial: WH11X10015; and timer: WH12X1034. I’ll also list the links below for purachase, pricing, and availability. Good luck on this!

My best bet from here would be the heating element : WD05X10008 It could either be cracked /broken or be bad altogether and not coming on. Would explain the dishes not getting very clean without the higher temp waters, and the failed drying cycle. If you can test it to know for sure, that’s be where to start. Good luck!

James, the door strike for this is part of the lid switch assembly: 3949247. I’ll add it below and a video as well.

Harley, not a problem. The control for this model is W10352582 and I’ll link it below for you. Good luck!

Great job on resetting the cut off, the TCO would be a likely problem if heat quits again, and possible the main control. Any appliance repair company she has out will run a full diagnosis, but she’ll at least be a bit prepared. It may run just fine from here on out. Hope this helps.

Kraig
Click on the link below and ApplianceVideo.com has 28-repair videos on diagnostics, lid switch, hall sensor, damper , thermistor, rotor, pressure switch, mode shifter, motor, control board, stater, drain pump, detergent dispenser, suspension and many others . check out the link below. https://www.appliancevideo.com/appliances/lg-wt1001cw-washer/

Good luck with your project
Matt Ace appliance