All Answers

We always replace both the freezer thermistor and the defrost thermistor at the same time. We see a lot of these refrigerators and we have been fooled to often. Since we have been doing this we have eliminated 95% of our recalls.

This is a dual evaporator model and we usually only see the refrigerator side stop cooling due to a fan issue or ice build up. See diagnostic chart below.

Wait 5 seconds between button pushes
Self Diagnosis: Press both buttons (Energy
Saver– Lighting) simultaneously (No sound
when both buttons are pressed at the same
time) ’til the display quits blinking and beeps, 8-
12 seconds, then release and read Fault Codes.
This will also cancel the Fault Mode created by
self-diagnosis at power up.
Forced Mode: Press both buttons (Lighting– Fridge)
simultaneously (No sound when both buttons are
pressed at the same time) ‘til it beeps and goes
blank, 8-12 seconds
Publication # tsRS265TD Revision Date 09/21/2010
Sealed System
Component Value Chart
Display Change F° to C° Press and Hold “Lighting”
for 3 sec.
Sales Mode, No Compressor Operation
Press Lighting & Freezer temp buttons simultaneously
for 3 sec ( you will hear a “Ding Dong”) to remove
or put into Sales Mode. When in the Sales
Mode the Display will show “OF” “OF”
Removing power will not cancel this mode.
Refrigerant Charge
R134a 7.76 oz.
Compressor → Condenser →Side Cluster → Hot Pipe→
Dryer → R Capillary → R Evaporator → F Evaporator →
Suction Pipe → Compressor
Component Resistance Wattage Voltage
Freezer Defrost Heater Ω 218 120vac
Fridge Defrost Heater 103Ω 140 120vac
Dispenser Heater 2057Ω 7 120vac
Fill Tube Heater 3130Ω 4.6 120vac
I/M Heater 99Ω 145 120vac
Sensors 2.5kΩ-89kΩ N/A 1~4.5vdc
Fans N/A N/A 7~12vdc
Installation Note

Fred, those drum supports are 349241T and I’ll add a part link below for you on this.

Gary, unfortunately the pricing doesn’t change much from vendor to vendor. We replace a few but it’s always the customer’s preference. You’d be surprised how many shop for new and then come back and want the repair done. Good luck!

That pump is a W10130913 and I’ll add a link and video below for you just in case it’s needed.

James, that evap fan motor is a 12002744. We do stock it. Follow the link below for pricing.

I’m betting it’s the triple solenoid valve inside. They can get corroded or go bad and need replaced. Number for this model would be 242252702 and I’ll add a link below for pricing and purchase if needed.

David, the control is still available, it’s WB27T10500. You’ll definitely need some help getting this in and out of the wall as well, so make sure somebody is there for the repair. It is still available and in stock from our link below. Hope this helps!

Harley, not a problem at all. The Brake Assembly is 35-6714 and the Drive Belt is 21352320. I’ll add a link for both below.

Kraig, best bet would be to have the turn valve removed and replaced, as well as advising that the line be replaced from there all the way to the unit. It’s the only way to ensure they’ll get the proper amount of water and pressure to the icemaker to produce the ice volume they want. If they do not want that done, there’s not much else you can do to help. Hope this answers your question!

Yes, we get our fair share of these as well with water collecting in the fresh food area, and to be honest, it happens on all makes and models we see. But if you cleared it and are having the customer monitor, I’d leave as is. Just write it down somewhere for your records what it may need in case the customer calls back in with any issues. Beats having to do all the research again if you already have it in front of you. Sometimes clearing the line is all it takes.

We always price out the repair just in case you get a customer that does decide to fix instead of replace. A lot of the time, they’ll buy new when they see that high repair price, but occasionally they fix. So it never hurts to take the few extra minutes. Unfortunately, sometimes there is no way around the cost when our price for them is so high. Means you have to pass along that cost to the customer.

Fred, this element is a common one: 4391960. I’ll add the part link as well as a video if needed. Good luck!

Gary, you’re going to need the timer assembly WE4M377 and probably the knob & clip WH01X10462 for this as well. I’ll add the links below for you. Let us know if we can be of any more help.

If it is the transmission, and I’ll add a video to help you further diagnose, it wouldn’t actually be washing, so I’m assuming you’re just hearing the noise when it should be agitating? If so, then yes, we typically advise the customer to replace, but it’s always their preference. We have some that opt to get it fixed just because they love their machine and want to see it go another 5-10 years before buying new. Give the estimate and allow the customer to decide, it’s always a safe bet that way.

James, we don’t stock that FF Temp Sensor (evap thermistor) but the # is WR55X10025. We do stock the board which is a WR55X10942. You sound like you’re on the right track but you’ll still need to physically verify both. Good luck!

It’s a very high likelihood, if you are in front of it and still have the unit apart you should be able to verify the rear drum bearing pretty quickly. They do make an odd high pitched whine/whistling noise sometimes. I’ll give you the parts link for the kit (5303281153) to see for yourself as well as a video. Hopefully that helps!

David, that part # is W10473195 and I’ll add the link for it as well so you can see pricing and availability. Feel free to let us know if there’s anything else we can help with.

In the repair manual it shows the connector under the upper left hinge cover. You can also use a Guest connector to splice that feed in from the back.